Marker/turn signal problem
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Marker/turn signal problem
Hey guys. I recently bought a 2000 bowling green metallic C5 with 86,000 miles on it. I absolutely love the car! I had a 1973 Stingray back in high school and it doesn't even compare to this one! Anyways, I am having a problem with the drivers side front turn signal/running light.
When I unlock the car using the fob, the light comes on and stays on until the door is opened. Get in and start it up, turn the lights on and I get nothing from that light at all. the small side marker light comes on but not the running light. Turn the left blinker on and the front light doesn't light up but the back one flashes really fast. I have changed the bulb and checked the ground. All the other lights work just fine except the front left. I was thinking that if it was a ground problem like I have read on here that it could be then why is the light coming on when I unlock the car using the fob? It's getting to be really frustrating!!
When I unlock the car using the fob, the light comes on and stays on until the door is opened. Get in and start it up, turn the lights on and I get nothing from that light at all. the small side marker light comes on but not the running light. Turn the left blinker on and the front light doesn't light up but the back one flashes really fast. I have changed the bulb and checked the ground. All the other lights work just fine except the front left. I was thinking that if it was a ground problem like I have read on here that it could be then why is the light coming on when I unlock the car using the fob? It's getting to be really frustrating!!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 19,384
Likes: 87
From: Horncastle Lincolnshire, England
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Do you get fast flash in the cockpit too? Thats telling you a bulb is bad but it could be caused by a defective bulb holder too.
If you've changed the bulb and are happy the DRL is working normally my next step would be to pull the housing and inspect for damage, leaks, pinched wires or corrosion. The DRLs are known to melt the plastic of the housing which might have allowed water into the bulb holder and caused damage.
Here's an old post of mine that will help:
Melted turn signal housings are common and its a design problem on all C5s. The turn signal bulbs are dual filament and act as park, turn and DRLs. The heat of the DRLs being on constantly burns the housing. I had to inhibit the DRLs here in England as ambers are not legal here. I never have T/S bulb failures and my lenses are still sound. The most common symptom is that the bulbs fail regularly because water gets into the bulb holder.
You can inhibit the DRLs by pulling the A2 fuse but if you want to keep the DRLs, LEDs are the way to go. LED bulbs produce less heat and are less likely to damage the housing. If you fit LEDs you’ll need a ballast mod to prevent “hyperflashing” as the system doesn’t recognize the LED bulb and thinks it’s failed. (JWMotoring sell a harness which will fix that issue).
Pull the housing – I’ve attached a procedure below – and inspect it. Others prefer to go in through the headlight housing but its harder to see the fixtures. You’ll probably find a hole on top. If it’s not too bad seal it with silicon sealant and reinstall the housing. That should fix the problem for now and the silicon may be enough to stop it getting worse.
Document ID# 655625
2002 Chevrolet Corvette
________________________________________
Park/Turn Signal/Side Marker Lamp Replacement
Removal Procedure
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
2. Remove the front fascia lower closeout panel.
3. Release the brake caliper cooling duct from the front fascia, and position the duct aside.
4. Remove the front turn signal lamp bracket retaining spring from the lamp bracket.
5. Remove the lamp bracket retaining spring from the front fascia.
6. Remove the front turn signal lamp bracket retaining screws.
7. Disconnect the sockets from the lamp.
8. Remove the lamp, with the bracket, from the vehicle.
9. Remove the lamp to bracket retaining screws.
10. Remove the lamp from the bracket.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the front park/turn signal and sidemarker lamp into position on the front turn signal lamp bracket.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
2. Install the front park/turn signal and sidemarker lamp to bracket retaining screws.
Tighten
Tighten the front park/turn signal and sidemarker lamp to bracket retaining screws to 2 N•m (18 lb in).
3. Install the sockets to the lamp.
4. Install the lamp, with the bracket, to the front fascia.
5. Align the lamp to the opening in the front fascia and hold the lamp firmly in place against the fascia, while installing the front turn signal lamp bracket retaining screws.
Tighten
Tighten the front turn signal lamp bracket retaining screws to 3 N•m (27 lb in).
6. Install the lamp bracket retaining spring to the front fascia.
7. Install the front turn signal lamp bracket retaining spring to the lamp bracket.
8. Position the brake caliper cooling duct to the front fascia and press the duct toward the fascia to secure.
9. Install the front fascia lower closeout panel. Refer to Close Out Panel - Front Bumper Fascia Lower in Bumpers.
If you've changed the bulb and are happy the DRL is working normally my next step would be to pull the housing and inspect for damage, leaks, pinched wires or corrosion. The DRLs are known to melt the plastic of the housing which might have allowed water into the bulb holder and caused damage.
Here's an old post of mine that will help:
Melted turn signal housings are common and its a design problem on all C5s. The turn signal bulbs are dual filament and act as park, turn and DRLs. The heat of the DRLs being on constantly burns the housing. I had to inhibit the DRLs here in England as ambers are not legal here. I never have T/S bulb failures and my lenses are still sound. The most common symptom is that the bulbs fail regularly because water gets into the bulb holder.
You can inhibit the DRLs by pulling the A2 fuse but if you want to keep the DRLs, LEDs are the way to go. LED bulbs produce less heat and are less likely to damage the housing. If you fit LEDs you’ll need a ballast mod to prevent “hyperflashing” as the system doesn’t recognize the LED bulb and thinks it’s failed. (JWMotoring sell a harness which will fix that issue).
Pull the housing – I’ve attached a procedure below – and inspect it. Others prefer to go in through the headlight housing but its harder to see the fixtures. You’ll probably find a hole on top. If it’s not too bad seal it with silicon sealant and reinstall the housing. That should fix the problem for now and the silicon may be enough to stop it getting worse.
Document ID# 655625
2002 Chevrolet Corvette
________________________________________
Park/Turn Signal/Side Marker Lamp Replacement
Removal Procedure
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
2. Remove the front fascia lower closeout panel.
3. Release the brake caliper cooling duct from the front fascia, and position the duct aside.
4. Remove the front turn signal lamp bracket retaining spring from the lamp bracket.
5. Remove the lamp bracket retaining spring from the front fascia.
6. Remove the front turn signal lamp bracket retaining screws.
7. Disconnect the sockets from the lamp.
8. Remove the lamp, with the bracket, from the vehicle.
9. Remove the lamp to bracket retaining screws.
10. Remove the lamp from the bracket.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the front park/turn signal and sidemarker lamp into position on the front turn signal lamp bracket.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
2. Install the front park/turn signal and sidemarker lamp to bracket retaining screws.
Tighten
Tighten the front park/turn signal and sidemarker lamp to bracket retaining screws to 2 N•m (18 lb in).
3. Install the sockets to the lamp.
4. Install the lamp, with the bracket, to the front fascia.
5. Align the lamp to the opening in the front fascia and hold the lamp firmly in place against the fascia, while installing the front turn signal lamp bracket retaining screws.
Tighten
Tighten the front turn signal lamp bracket retaining screws to 3 N•m (27 lb in).
6. Install the lamp bracket retaining spring to the front fascia.
7. Install the front turn signal lamp bracket retaining spring to the lamp bracket.
8. Position the brake caliper cooling duct to the front fascia and press the duct toward the fascia to secure.
9. Install the front fascia lower closeout panel. Refer to Close Out Panel - Front Bumper Fascia Lower in Bumpers.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I have put a new bulb in it but that didn't solve the problem. I did look at the connections when I changed the bulb and they all looked good. One thing that I noticed just last night is that when the light comes on after unlocking the car with the fob, the light is dimmer than the light on the right side of the car. And yes, I do get the "fast flash" on the dash when I turn the left blinker on. I am going to try to get the housing out of the bumper this weekend so I can get a meter on the plug it's self to see if I'm getting power and ground to the socket.
Last edited by imustbcraze; Jan 11, 2012 at 10:11 AM.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
DeeGee,
You hit this one on the head. Finally got around to pulling the marker light housing out of the bumper and sure enough, it was cracked. Looking inside of it, you could see where water had splashed around. Pulled the bulb socket out of the housing hole and the area around where the bulb sits in it was almost black. With the socket being burnt like that, it was allowing the bulb to sit too far into the socket and pushing the contacts away from the bulb. I used a piece of ABS plastic to make a spacer to put in the bottom of the socket to keep the bulb from going in too far until I can locate a new socket. Thank you for your help!!
You hit this one on the head. Finally got around to pulling the marker light housing out of the bumper and sure enough, it was cracked. Looking inside of it, you could see where water had splashed around. Pulled the bulb socket out of the housing hole and the area around where the bulb sits in it was almost black. With the socket being burnt like that, it was allowing the bulb to sit too far into the socket and pushing the contacts away from the bulb. I used a piece of ABS plastic to make a spacer to put in the bottom of the socket to keep the bulb from going in too far until I can locate a new socket. Thank you for your help!!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 19,384
Likes: 87
From: Horncastle Lincolnshire, England
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
DeeGee,
You hit this one on the head. Finally got around to pulling the marker light housing out of the bumper and sure enough, it was cracked. Looking inside of it, you could see where water had splashed around. Pulled the bulb socket out of the housing hole and the area around where the bulb sits in it was almost black. With the socket being burnt like that, it was allowing the bulb to sit too far into the socket and pushing the contacts away from the bulb. I used a piece of ABS plastic to make a spacer to put in the bottom of the socket to keep the bulb from going in too far until I can locate a new socket. Thank you for your help!!
You hit this one on the head. Finally got around to pulling the marker light housing out of the bumper and sure enough, it was cracked. Looking inside of it, you could see where water had splashed around. Pulled the bulb socket out of the housing hole and the area around where the bulb sits in it was almost black. With the socket being burnt like that, it was allowing the bulb to sit too far into the socket and pushing the contacts away from the bulb. I used a piece of ABS plastic to make a spacer to put in the bottom of the socket to keep the bulb from going in too far until I can locate a new socket. Thank you for your help!!
