Ok so I performed some of the tests last night, tell me if I am doing something wrong.

All tests were performed with the multimeter set exactly as in the pictures, also the battery is at an almost dead state which may affect things. It is also duely noted that all tests were performed with the negative battery cable having been disconnected for 5-6 hours.

I disconnected the driver seat switch, I also pulled the bose relay # 45 (I just saw that there is a fuse for that too, will pull that tomorrow), the rear defogger maxifuse # 48, and both wires off the alternator, I did not notice any difference in the amps, still holding at a high 5.5. I will try and perform the other tests tomorrow but please bring to my attention if I should modify the condition of any of my tests.

Keep in mind that this car has seen a few instances of high voltage in the past due to the previous electrical issues, although the car has driven fine afterwards.

 

The battery "MUST" ,,,,, I repeat MUST,,,,,,,, be fully charged to figure out what is going on.

Circuits and relays that are constantly powered look for that proper voltage and if its LOW,, they do all sorts of weird things. The head light control module is one of them!


Disconnect the battery. Put that battery on charge and watch the current that the battery draws as its charging. When you first start charging the battery, it will draw 20+ amps or what ever the battery charger will output ( 2/10/20 amp charger)

When the battery is pretty much fully charged, the charging current will be around 2 amps or less. How long does that take,,,, depends on the state of the battery. The correct way to see when its fully charged is with a hydrometer but thats, another story.

The disconnect suggestions that I recommended were the EASY ones and some of the most likely to cause the issue. You have a LOT more circuits to test/disconnect. Once that battery is charged, check that headlight control module next. Just disconnect the plug that supplies power to it.


As for your car going into sleep mode. Once you separate the NEG battery terminal and the instant that you insert the amp meter in the circuit, approx 15 later it should be at the MINIMUM CURRENT DRAW or sleep mode. If its still high, either its NOT going into sleep or its in sleep but something is sucking current thats NOT suppose to.

On most C5's sleep mode is happening within 8-12 min. The max time that I have seen it take is 15 min.

 

Your HIGH VOLTAGE issue is most likely being caused by the BATTERY NOT being in circuit while the engine is running,

Now you saying "How the hell can that happen when I'm driving down the road?"

Thats easy! Either your battery terminals were improperly torqued on to the battery OR the red battery wires on the starter solenoid terminals are loose/corroded/burnt or damaged OR the BATT terminal on the back of the alternator is loose/dirty or damaged OR the small plastic connector on the alternator is having a connection problem. There is a RED wire in that connector that ALSO goes to the starter solenoid and its a reference voltage wire that tells the alternator whats going on voltage wise.



Oh,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,DO NOT forget to check those ground wires for a good connection!!!!


BC

 

Ok Bill I will charge the battery and continue with the tests.

Also the high voltage issue was resolved after new battery cables, so its not longer an issue I was just stating it in case it could possibly be the cause of the current issues.

 

Were the old cables corroded or the copper blackened?

 

yes the old terminals were corroded, but that issue has already been solved.

 

So I performed all of the tests.
I recharged the battery, and I disconnected the seat switch, both the bose relay, and fuse, both headlight control modules, disconnected the maxifuse for the rear defroster, and pulled both wires out of the back of the alternator. I took the amp and the current was a consistent 5.5 from the point I started taking measurements until about 25 minutes later. The only thing that I noticed was as I opened each door the amps would rise, with one door open the current would go up to 5.9, and with both doors open it would go up to 6.2 that was pretty much my only clue out of these tests, but I don't know what to make of it. I tried reconnecting the headlight module, and the battery wires but those did not make any difference in the amps.
I am also going to post some pics





Notice on the 2nd picture how the maxifuse has some marks on the top of the each tooth, I was wondering if that's normal or if that's something odd.

I again tried starting the car, no start, no clicking from the starter, and also no codes.

My only theory is that this is a PCM issue, or somehow a starter issue, but besides that I have no clue.

 

Do you have a power passenger seat and did you disconnect that one?

 

I tried looking for the connector but there was none, so I was unable to unplug the passenger seat, but I do not believe that it has an automated switch like the driver side one anyway. If there is one please specifically describe where to look for it.

 

Find a friend.. Have the friend sit in the drivers seat. You look in the Passengers foot well and find the TDR relay. Use that meter in the DC Volts measure range and put the POS lead on the TDR PURPLE WIRE and the NEG wire on a known chassie ground.

Have your assistant attempt to start the car. You should see 12 VDC on the purple wire when the assiatant presses the clutch, turns the key to start. WHAT IS THAT READING?????

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1579755334-post31.html

 

WHAT HE SAID!

 

I have already tested for the tdr at the starter solenoid, it had a good reading ( I put the probe on the purple wire on the starter and had an assistant try to start the car) , I believe it was 12+. So what you guys are suggesting is that it is the starter solenoid? Would a bad starter explain the battery drain as well. Any additional tests that I can perform or is it time to pull the starter?

 

DING, DING, DING, DING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You have the answer! Change out the solenoid or the entier starter, What ever is easier for you!


Bill

 

Wow finally an answer I am overjoyed to say the least, the car will be on jack stands and the starter will be out and tested by tomorrow night, thanks guys hope this solves the problem

 

The damn solenoid may not fail on the test stand! Press the I BELIEVE BUTTON O and either replace the solenoid with a new one OR replace the statrer.

BC

 

........BUT.......this may be a two part problem. You still have not isloated the excessive current draw. Very easy to do, by simply disconnecting the instrument panel electrical center from the underhood electrical center. It least that will tell you it's on the engine side.

 

Disconnect the lead from the battery positive to the starter solenoid and see what your current draw is. Also something doesn't seem right with your meter, why the negative current draw?

 

You are right but what do I have to disconnect? At this point there are only 2 possibilities that come to my mind, either it's a PCM problem, or a starter issue, I don't see any other possibility.

There are pics if you notice something off please do tell me, I believe I have it setup correctly, and all the clues indicate that I have.

That sounds like a good idea, but since I have to take off all the header bolts I might as well get under the car and check the starter out.

Tomorrow evening I will more than likely take the starter out, but probably going to disconnect the underhood from the passenger footwell circuit before doing so.

 

It looks like you have very thin wire from the battery to the meter leads - and you have just wrapped the wire around the meter probe. Or maybe you are hand holding the wire on.

My guess is the connection is not good and the 20 minute timer restarts over and over - so it is impossible to trouble shoot the problem.

I would use 14 gauge wire and clamp the wire on the meter probe or use an alligator clip.