"oil pressure sensor replacement".
Love the Cuda's too!
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 194
Likes: 1
From: Norman Ok
I've done it a few times like the youtube video. No need to remove the front clamp. Takes me about 20 minutes. I use a few picks to start the threads, otherwise, it's pretty much as the video shows. Just did one about 2 weeks ago on my 01 this way.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 261
Likes: 6
From: Alva Oklahoma
Yes, that's right, a do-it-yourself video on YOUTUBE. A twenty minuite procedure and you're done. I am no mechanic, but when the dealership said $117.50 an hour is what their mechanics cost. I watched this video and replaced it myself in thirty min on my "98 Coupe. Here is the link; why don't you give it a shot.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PvlDLcyXX8
Let us know how it turns out. Okay? (smile)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PvlDLcyXX8
Let us know how it turns out. Okay? (smile)
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 220
Likes: 1
From: Pleasant Hill CA
I agree; relocate it or cut the fiberglass; no big deal after you cut it and have room to work. I may get a relocation kit next time, but nice to get it fixed and get the oil smell out of my vents and have a working sensor. Thanks for the write ups and pics!!
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 283
Likes: 16
I had to have mine done. I'm pretty handy but have big hands and decided I did not want to take the intake off myself. I took it to my local Corvette shop here in So. Orange County. I asked them to replace it and install the relocation kit at the same time, charge $300 that included the labor, relocation kit and sensor. Next time I can do it myself now that I have the relo kit installed.
1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
oil leak oil sensor or oil pan C-5 2001 Base
I had my 2001 c5 checked and was told it was a problem with oil pan gasket, I was quoted $650.00 for repairs, after reading here on the issue and giving thought to getting it in a shop and be charged for a Un needed oil pan gasket job , and have the service writer day,hey by the way we had to replace your oil sensor also, I was a car Salesmen and know that a dealership service will stick you up if you don't know, until now,I didn't know, ,thanks for the heads-up, I am entertaining doing the sensor myself, I gather my nerves from this posting . please list all necessary tools from start to finish. ..the sensor is less than $60.00,,.
My oil pressure read idling 30-31,sometime 28..idling...
Is this normal. That's having the proper oil level.
Lil red rooster
My oil pressure read idling 30-31,sometime 28..idling...
Is this normal. That's having the proper oil level.
Lil red rooster
Last edited by Tommy Haynes; Aug 24, 2015 at 04:47 PM. Reason: smartphone rewrite.
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Yep,What a post.
I trying to found any quality information about oil pressure replacing.
Thanks.
Also i have problem about mounting oil pressure gauge.Dont you know how can i do it ? I didnt found any topic on this forum.
P.s Also reccomend this site full of information. http://caroilpressure.com
I trying to found any quality information about oil pressure replacing.
Thanks.
Also i have problem about mounting oil pressure gauge.Dont you know how can i do it ? I didnt found any topic on this forum.
P.s Also reccomend this site full of information. http://caroilpressure.com
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 57
From: Kensington MD
I had my 2001 c5 checked and was told it was a problem with oil pan gasket, I was quoted $650.00 for repairs, after reading here on the issue and giving thought to getting it in a shop and be charged for a Un needed oil pan gasket job , and have the service writer day,hey by the way we had to replace your oil sensor also, I was a car Salesmen and know that a dealership service will stick you up if you don't know, until now,I didn't know, ,thanks for the heads-up, I am entertaining doing the sensor myself, I gather my nerves from this posting . please list all necessary tools from start to finish. ..the sensor is less than $60.00,,.
My oil pressure read idling 30-31,sometime 28..idling...
Is this normal. That's having the proper oil level.
Lil red rooster
My oil pressure read idling 30-31,sometime 28..idling...
Is this normal. That's having the proper oil level.
Lil red rooster
Be prepared to need to replace some old brittle hoses and such that break when you remove them.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 4
From: Slidell La
I don't know how my fat hands could do it with out pulling the intake. I have done two and pulled intake on both. The problem causing failure was chassy wire harness too short causing stress on the plastic top. I cut the harness and spliced in about 6" of wire using the F15 wiring manual on how to so it would not fail again. I also use ONLY OEM PART for this. I had one oem part minus the copper washer so I bought a Echlin part and the pressure was off by about 3 #'s. I replaced it with OEM and it was dead back on correct reading.
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Instructor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: North Port Florida
[QUOTE=jpulone;1579866907]I just replaced the sending unit and have a couple of tips.
No need to remove the front clamp to the filter. Just remove the hose and clamp at the thottle body and prop up with a block of wood.
After manifold is loose, remove the hose from the brake booster allows you to pull the manifold further forward to remove that hose at the back of the manifold in addition to small hose and electrical connector.
After putting in all new seals you must go back and re-torque the manifold bolts after a short run. I will go and do it again.
The foam covered black plactic tube on the driver side against the manifold separated and I rejoined with a rubber hose. Don't know why it broke, but it was a clean brake.
Thank you Forum for all the help. Made the job doable and saved lots of $$$.
Ciao[/QUO
Just replaced my MAP sensor and relocated the oil pressure sensor. Were you able to torque the two rear bolts? I could not find an inch pound torque wrench small enough to get back there , also tried using a swivel and extension. So I just tied to tighten to what seemed like the other bolts were.
No need to remove the front clamp to the filter. Just remove the hose and clamp at the thottle body and prop up with a block of wood.
After manifold is loose, remove the hose from the brake booster allows you to pull the manifold further forward to remove that hose at the back of the manifold in addition to small hose and electrical connector.
After putting in all new seals you must go back and re-torque the manifold bolts after a short run. I will go and do it again.
The foam covered black plactic tube on the driver side against the manifold separated and I rejoined with a rubber hose. Don't know why it broke, but it was a clean brake.
Thank you Forum for all the help. Made the job doable and saved lots of $$$.
Ciao[/QUO
Just replaced my MAP sensor and relocated the oil pressure sensor. Were you able to torque the two rear bolts? I could not find an inch pound torque wrench small enough to get back there , also tried using a swivel and extension. So I just tied to tighten to what seemed like the other bolts were.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 4
From: Slidell La
[QUOTE=Radicaltimes;1590978567]
I just pulled the rear two bolts until my wrist clicked because no torque wrench will fit. I put tape on the 2 rear bolts to hold them up until the intake was seated, then used exacto to cut the tape off and hand screwed them then tightened with small box end.
I just replaced the sending unit and have a couple of tips.
No need to remove the front clamp to the filter. Just remove the hose and clamp at the thottle body and prop up with a block of wood.
After manifold is loose, remove the hose from the brake booster allows you to pull the manifold further forward to remove that hose at the back of the manifold in addition to small hose and electrical connector.
After putting in all new seals you must go back and re-torque the manifold bolts after a short run. I will go and do it again.
The foam covered black plactic tube on the driver side against the manifold separated and I rejoined with a rubber hose. Don't know why it broke, but it was a clean brake.
Thank you Forum for all the help. Made the job doable and saved lots of $$$.
Ciao[/QUO
Just replaced my MAP sensor and relocated the oil pressure sensor. Were you able to torque the two rear bolts? I could not find an inch pound torque wrench small enough to get back there , also tried using a swivel and extension. So I just tied to tighten to what seemed like the other bolts were.
No need to remove the front clamp to the filter. Just remove the hose and clamp at the thottle body and prop up with a block of wood.
After manifold is loose, remove the hose from the brake booster allows you to pull the manifold further forward to remove that hose at the back of the manifold in addition to small hose and electrical connector.
After putting in all new seals you must go back and re-torque the manifold bolts after a short run. I will go and do it again.
The foam covered black plactic tube on the driver side against the manifold separated and I rejoined with a rubber hose. Don't know why it broke, but it was a clean brake.
Thank you Forum for all the help. Made the job doable and saved lots of $$$.
Ciao[/QUO
Just replaced my MAP sensor and relocated the oil pressure sensor. Were you able to torque the two rear bolts? I could not find an inch pound torque wrench small enough to get back there , also tried using a swivel and extension. So I just tied to tighten to what seemed like the other bolts were.
I just pulled the rear two bolts until my wrist clicked because no torque wrench will fit. I put tape on the 2 rear bolts to hold them up until the intake was seated, then used exacto to cut the tape off and hand screwed them then tightened with small box end.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
OEM oil pressure sensor
I don't know how my fat hands could do it with out pulling the intake. I have done two and pulled intake on both. The problem causing failure was chassy wire harness too short causing stress on the plastic top. I cut the harness and spliced in about 6" of wire using the F15 wiring manual on how to so it would not fail again. I also use ONLY OEM PART for this. I had one oem part minus the copper washer so I bought a Echlin part and the pressure was off by about 3 #'s. I replaced it with OEM and it was dead back on correct reading.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,747
Likes: 224
From: Hillsboro Oregon
Relocate your sensor and the problem will be solved. Many threads here on how to do.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 69
Likes: 11
From: San Clemente, CA
Yes, that's right, a do-it-yourself video on YOUTUBE. A twenty minuite procedure and you're done. I am no mechanic, but when the dealership said $117.50 an hour is what their mechanics cost. I watched this video and replaced it myself in thirty min on my "98 Coupe. Here is the link; why don't you give it a shot.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PvlDLcyXX8
Let us know how it turns out. Okay? (smile)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PvlDLcyXX8
Let us know how it turns out. Okay? (smile)
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 69
Likes: 11
From: San Clemente, CA
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 315
St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 69
Likes: 11
From: San Clemente, CA
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 283
Likes: 16
@Big_George_S - Who did you use? Im in So Orange County and need the replacement done. Thank you!
1. For basic remove and replace mechanical, and fluid changes I do that myself.
2. For more complicated items such as electrical, alignment and other basic stuff I've used Action Tire on Via Fabricante. They have also done a power steering rack swap, Turbo oil pump swap, and wheel alignment. I could have done the Turbo oil pump but it went out the same time as the power steering so they did both. I work with the shop owner Mike he is a good kid, knows what he is doing and very honest.
3. For Corvette speciality items, Turbo install, LS1 oil pan leak, and other Corvette centric issues I'll use West Coast Corvettes, good shop they know the cars and are very honest in their advice and assessments.
Sorry I did not see your message sooner.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Big_George_S; Nov 17, 2019 at 06:41 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 69
Likes: 11
From: San Clemente, CA
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 43
Likes: 9
From: Mesquite, TX
I just replaced mine today with AC Delco part 12677836. It doesn't match the part number of the one I took out, and physically the hole in the end that goes in the intake is much smaller than the sensor's that I took out. It does work after installation.
I was able to change mine without removing the intake manifold. I ended up using a bent piece of mechanics wire to pull out on the electrical connector's tab (it was facing me), and a 3-foot-long, narrow-headed screwdriver to persuade the connector upward. Something you might use to balance a set of motorcycle carbs.
I used the Lisle oil pressure sensor socket, a wobble joint, a foot-long 3/8" extension , and a 3/8" ratchet to remove the sensor itself from the motor. That was the easy part. I ended up dropping the new sensor down between the motor and the firewall because I tried to start it by hand, but luckily it didn't fall too far and I was able to fish it out after 15-20 minutes. The sensor fits very snugly in the Lisle socket, so I was able to just put it in the socket, get the socket down there and start to turn that by hand until the threads caught.
After the threads caught, I attached my wobble socket and a flexible metal cable type extension to my ratchet and tightened her down. BEFORE I reattached the electrical connector I started it up to check for leaks. Satisfied, I connected it back up, restarted the car and found a working oil pressure guage again. Probably took all of 1.5 hours.
This wasn't as straight forward as removing the intake manifold, but it saved me a lot of time and a few bucks on intake gaskets!
I was able to change mine without removing the intake manifold. I ended up using a bent piece of mechanics wire to pull out on the electrical connector's tab (it was facing me), and a 3-foot-long, narrow-headed screwdriver to persuade the connector upward. Something you might use to balance a set of motorcycle carbs.
I used the Lisle oil pressure sensor socket, a wobble joint, a foot-long 3/8" extension , and a 3/8" ratchet to remove the sensor itself from the motor. That was the easy part. I ended up dropping the new sensor down between the motor and the firewall because I tried to start it by hand, but luckily it didn't fall too far and I was able to fish it out after 15-20 minutes. The sensor fits very snugly in the Lisle socket, so I was able to just put it in the socket, get the socket down there and start to turn that by hand until the threads caught.
After the threads caught, I attached my wobble socket and a flexible metal cable type extension to my ratchet and tightened her down. BEFORE I reattached the electrical connector I started it up to check for leaks. Satisfied, I connected it back up, restarted the car and found a working oil pressure guage again. Probably took all of 1.5 hours.
This wasn't as straight forward as removing the intake manifold, but it saved me a lot of time and a few bucks on intake gaskets!
Last edited by fastbroshi; Oct 11, 2020 at 09:34 PM. Reason: punctuation
