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The factory manual says to put a thread sealant on the bolts and torque to 89 lb-inches. Is this torque that critical and does this equal
7.4lb-ft?
In addition is it OK not to replace the 8 seals, since I don't intend on removing the intake from the engine, just move it forward as some have recommended in replacing the sensor.
Ciao
Torque isn't critical, but make sure you know what 89 inch*lbs feels like before you try to tighten them without a wrench. And yeah it's 7.4 ft*lbs.
How many miles are on your car? It may not be a bad idea to at least look at the gaskets to see if any need to be replaced. Or maybe just feel with your fingers and see if they're still pliable.
Pull the intake completely and flip it over. You will likely find sand in the seals. Clean and inspect them thoroughly. Replace them if they are too deformed. Also, clean the bolts and the area around the bolt holes in the head as these holes are directly over the lifters and you don't want any dirt falling in.
Following the service manual for installation as the tightening is done in two steps and in a specific sequence. Don't forget these are very long 6mm bolts and not using a torque wrench runs the risk not only twisting the plastic intake but also breaking a bolt off in the head, which won't be fun if it happens.
Last edited by vettenuts; Jan 18, 2012 at 05:26 AM.
I have my car apart for this very project. you are going to want to remove the intake and clean underneath for sure. in regards to the gaskets, my car has 60k miles on it and the gaskets are not in great shape. for the $50 or whatever, it is better to replace them rather than risk having to redo the entire proceedure due to a gasket leak.
here is a thread with pics of what my engine looked like under the manifold:
Good move. If you do much of your own work, you won't regret investing in an inch pound/newton meter wrench.
Don't forget to put the two rear bolts in the manifold before slipping it in place. You can hold them up with some masking tape so they don't catch. You can't get them in once the intake is in position under the cowl. Don't ask how I know.
And I don't know how I double posted either.....sorry
The factory manual says to put a thread sealant on the bolts and torque to 89 lb-inches. Is this torque that critical and does this equal
7.4lb-ft?
In addition is it OK not to replace the 8 seals, since I don't intend on removing the intake from the engine, just move it forward as some have recommended in replacing the sensor.
Ciao
The torque sequence is in two passes....NOT one. 44 in lbs, and then 89 in lbs.
No, they mean thread sealant. The bolts run into the intake runners and need to be sealed from outside air.
Originally Posted by geezel
Is this true?
The intake bolts look like they run through the head and into the open valley cover area of the block - not into the intake runners ... so if anything they might leak some oil (from the crank vapors in the valley cover area) if the threads weren't sealed.
The Service Manual does call out Locktite ... which should also provide some thread sealing along with ensuring the intake bolts don't move since they are pretty low torque fasteners.
To jpulone - you definitely want to remove the intake so you can clean up everything underneath. If you just move it, you risk the chance of something getting down inside the intake ports or on the sealing gaskets which will create some problems.
BTW - you can get a whole set of new intake gaskets, Fel-Pro brand from the local parts stores for $25. Just replace them if you go through the trouble of doing the job. Last thing you want to do is the job twice!
While you're in there, might as well seal up the knock sensor covers to keep any water from getting down the knock sensor wells.
I decided to check my FSM for 2001, it also says threadlock GM P/N 12345382 for these bolts. First time I have noticed that. Now I am wondering if Locktite Blue is equivalent. I did not see Locktite Blue as an interchange in the info from Lucky...
I decided to check my FSM for 2001, it also says threadlock GM P/N 12345382 for these bolts. First time I have noticed that. Now I am wondering if Locktite Blue is equivalent. I did not see Locktite Blue as an interchange in the info from Lucky...
Blue Locktite should be fine for the intake bolts. It's actually shown as equivalent to the GM call out on page 2 of the Locktite spec sheets ("OEM Interchange" table) that Lucky posted - highlighted in yellow.