I'm building a forged LS1 engine for a mild FI setup. Probably around 600WHP. Current SB has 75,000 miles on it, bone stock except for SC. I'm considering several upgrades for reliability and durability.

New rings, plasma moly, Total seal, Hellfire?

Replacing valvesprings, LS6, 918, patriot dual?

Lifters, Comp cams, LS7?

Timing set, comp cams, LS2, C5R?

The only other thing I might do besides an oil pump is throw in an LS6 cam. I have an old TSP ported LS6 pump that I never installed when I did a cam swap on my Camaro. Is that any good? I think the bearings being considered are all Clevite, King, and durabond.

Cost is an issue here, otherwise I would at least be throwing an LS2 402 back in there, but I don't want to be pennywise and pound foolish.

 

Well if you're building a forged motor then you're already buying a new rotating assembly. It wouldn't cost much more to buy a bare LS2 block, and you can recoup probably all of that cost by selling your assembled LS1 shortblock.

 

Then you have to deal the wiring issues. Knock sensors are in different places and have to make them work.

 

No, I'm buying rods and pistons and using a stock crank. The crank is rarely ever a problem with these engines until the hp starts to get really impressive. My LS1 short block has at least one damaged piston and maybe even a cracked cylinder (maybe). I don't think I can sell the whole short block and get more than half what a bare LS2 block will cost me. You might have seen some less expensive blocks though, and I'd be interested in talking to whatever company sells them.

 

$1100 for an Ls2 block or $850 for a stroker crank....

 

just buy a built short block for like 3500

 

Ls7 lifters,ls2 chain,acl bearings, and if it were mine I'd do a blower cam and reccomended springs.

 

I see very few vendors who will advertise a forged short block less than $3,600.

 

you might find one but look at costs:

1800-2600 for a rotating assembly
1100 for a new block, try finding a used LS2 block for 500
Then that leaves how much money for machining and assembly?

You might fiind a used one though. We need a minimum of 4400 to buuild you a decent shorblock.

I found eagle stuff for like 1950 shipped on ebay.. Then you still need it balanced and machined and the eagle stuff has big variances so you doing more machine work to it.. but if you go say 800 on a used block and 1950 on components.. that leaves you about 750 for machine work and assembly.. Someone might build it that cheap for you...

In fact I'll build it for you personally if you want. HKE is my builder. I am an amateur builder but know what I am doing. If you want a 383 for 3500 I'll build it. If you want an HKE built 383 its going to cost more.

 

I guess the labor is really killing me on this. I would love to build my own engine and do the swap. I have the time and probably most of the talent, but I don't have the facilities here to get into it. I have two shops in mind that I trust, and they are both going about $2k for tear down of my block, machining, and assembly. With at least an addition $1k for r and r of engine.The cheapest short block either of them has is a basic Scoggins-Dickey 346 for about $3,300, but I don't like the components. I'm sure I could come out cheaper having someone else build the sb and then have my shop do the swap, but I want to avoid any situations where if there is a problem you have the installer blaming the builder and the builder blaming the installer. HKE has a great rep. If not for trying to keep it all under the same roof I would be very interested in one of those engines. I really appreciate your offer as well.

I know you have to pay to play, but I can't afford to experiment with it and then have to redo it in 6 months.


BTW, Dealership just quoted me $35 a piece for LS7 lifters.

If I found a good LS2 block for $500 I could justify the expense, but even then I would probably stick with a stock crank. If I was looking for more than 800hp I would want something stronger, but the stocker should be fine for ~600whp and I don't need the additional cubes with the blower.

 

True enough.. give me a pm and let me see what we can work out for an HKE engine...

LOL mine wont fall apart in 6 months either..LOL Erik(HKE) is who I learned from, but lets see what we can do for you from HKE using your crank.

 

Forged short block and budget gives me the shivers.

 

Well budget is a relative term...LOL its all forged its just a matter of which Callies crank or Eagle or Scat or K1 ..etc... We build them the same, just use different internals and thats the cost difference. The cheaper stuff for the less demanding needs

 

I think that is the part that most ppl have a challenge understanding

 

I don't think this build is terribly demanding.

 

check scoggin dickey. they have great quality and decent prices.

 

With the LS motor being over 10 yrs old now, there is a bunch of 6.0 blocks around, careful that you don"t find a 5.3. I would look on RACING JUNK lots of around now

 

This guy is right. Your LS1 stuff will both right onto the LQ4/LQ9 block except for one boss (which you can drill and tap). No need for knock sensor relocation. They are cheaper, easier to find and stronger.

 

They have an inexpensive short block, but the components look a little weak.

 

It would be a cheap route to go for sure, but I don't really want to build an iron block engine to run a measly 8-9lbs through.