Vibration after clutch install
3rd Gear
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
You're not out of luck, it's just a matter of how much this shop will be willing to work with you. If they have ruled out any other causes of the vibration, like a screwed up pilot bearing, propshaft couplers, mounts, exhaust touching anything, that kind of stuff, then there are ways to balance your engine/clutch assy while still in the car.
What is the state of the car right now? Is the drive-line apart and the clutch out of the car? Or is everything together at their shop?
What is the state of the car right now? Is the drive-line apart and the clutch out of the car? Or is everything together at their shop?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 7,866
Likes: 249
From: Hillsboro OR
Actually, it means that your engine's internals were less than .5 oz·in, which is good. The factory post assembly balancing takes care of imbalance contributions from the engine internals, FW, and PP all together. You took care of the two, and your internals were ok to begin with. So, from now on, when you change a clutch, you know, you are best off with a zero balanced FW/PP assembly, as you would expect for an internally balanced (by design) engine. Your guess work is done.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 296
Likes: 33
From: Virginia Beach VA
The car is in Asheville, NC. Currently it is all together, and the shop has verified engine mounts, transmission mounts, torque tube,propshafts, and exhaust are not the culprit. Over the last three weeks, they informed me they checked everything they could without taking the drive-line apart to verify their previous install.
So, people in your position have done the following to try to balance it all while still in the car:
Remove the lower bell housing cover, giving you access to the FW/PP. Number/mark the PP bolts. Rev the engine in neutral with the clutch depressed (disengaged). Rev to about 3200 rpm. Place your hand on the shifter and gage a feel for what kind of vibration you have. Go to the PP and remove a PP bolt and add a washer to one location and torque the bolt back in. Then rev the engine again, just as before. Get a feel for what kind of vibration you have. Record what kind of vibration you feel, on a scale of 1 to 10. go back and take that washer off and move to the next PP bolt location. Repeat your vibration test, and record. You are trying to find the position that minimizes the vibrations. Of course you might end up with one or two washers in adjacent PP bolt locations. Its an iterative approach. If you could use something like an EVA2, then you could dial in how much weight and where to place it, much quicker.
If the shop is willing to go the full distance with trying to help you, you could tear everything down and have them zero balance the new FW/PP combo. That might be enough eliminate vibrations, or you may have to end up adding washers regardless of having zeroed the clutch assembly. So it's just a matter of how much effort everyone is willing to put in.
At least your shop sounds like they are admitting there is a vibration issue, and are willing to help you solve it.
good luck
