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Good morning sportsfans (or is it Vette-fans?) So I've been doing a little reading and research into getting a CAI for my 01 'vert. One of the things I keep coming across is that a lot of good comes from moving the MAF to in front of the TB. On the other hand, the intakes I've been considering (Callaway Honker and Halltech Stinger) don't relocate the MAF. Long story short, would there be a way to accomplish this through various foolery and/or mix 'n' match of parts? Or am I on a wild goose chase?
It would only take the right sized coupler hoses which are readily available.I relocated mine when I added the Vararam power duct but cant say I noticed any difference.A bit crisper throttle response,but that may be wishful thinking.
I think the question I would ask is: "is MAF relocation to in front of the TB really smart?"
This move would really upset the smooth airflow to it and would require the MAF curve to be tweaked.
Tha MAF likes smooth airflow, seems like having the throttle blade right behind it would mess it up. Especially at low throttle settings.
Usually, any change from stock (new CAI) would require the MAF curve to be recalibrated.
Chuck (COW) mentioned this at length in regaurds to the VaraRam CAI unit.
I bought a powerduct as well, and there was just no way the TB would mount near the TB, so I put it in the stock location. The more I thought about it, the more sense it made to leave in the stock location.
Ron
Last edited by RonSSNova; Apr 11, 2012 at 10:45 AM.
The Honker moves the MAF up close to the TB but the problem I found was not in tuning the MAF but the heat soak. I have a later model MAF that incorporates the IAT sensor with it. I ended up moving my IAT back away from the MAF. The MAF sensor is a slow reacting sensor so I don't think it really matters that much.
All the hype about moving it closer to the TB is just that, hype.
just my .02
here you can see where the Honker moves the MAF sensor.
I agree moving the MAF closer to the TB will create more heat soak--Also moving it to any location other than stock will require for best performance a re-tune---Not really a requirement --but if your so deatailed as to move the MAF's location then i would assume you would want to get it tuned as well--Without tuning your ECM will get erroneous airflow data----remember the MAF is just a tool that reads airflow--The data it provides in addition to the 02 sensors, TPS sensor and VE table set the final fueling -
Having the MAF as turbulent and restriction free is critical when searching for all out HP
But wuthout a re-tune you may go backwards !!!
DON'T DO IT!! I just played this game. I installed the Halltech Killer Bee II C5 conversion kit on my Z. That moved the C6 probe type MAF right next to the TB and on my cammed LPE engine that ended any chance I had of getting it to idle without surging and dying. I've now retrofitted the new Killer Bee II update for the C6 which moves the TB back to it's original position and all is right again. This system uses the C6 probe type MAF, but the overall result should be similar.
the OP question was about relocation of the MAF, not removing the screen.
Yeah but one of the reasons given not to relocate was because it would upset airflow. I thought the screen was to even out flow through the sensor. Just trying to learn.
Yes the screen is in there to straighten out the airflow--It's really not a screen but a " stream staightener" , GM actually removed it on newer models but it was tuned to operate that way--
The air path on a C5 is pretty straight but like on an F body it make several sharp turns and a starightener is required--
You can gain a few ponies by removing it on earlier C5 models but it MUST be re-tuned or you will get erroneous data and create idle-surging -dying issues--Why many people have bad experiences when removing it as you must have HP or EFILIVE to correct it---Or get it tuned again by a tuner----