Shift linkage!!!
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From: Poplar Bluff MO
Shift linkage!!!
Okay ya'll I have a problem with my C5. When I got the car I knew I was going to have to repair or replace the tranny due to a 3rd-4th grinding. I get ready to drive the car and I the tranny suddenly gets stuck in third and the shifter turns to a joy stick...So I suppose the linkage pin is broken.
Is there a way to fix the linkage without dropping the tranny and rearend?
Could the linkage cause the 3rd-4th grinding? Only grinds in those gears.
Is there a way to fix the linkage without dropping the tranny and rearend?
Could the linkage cause the 3rd-4th grinding? Only grinds in those gears.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Well heres where you start:
Remove the console to access the shifter: (KIRBAN Aftermarket shifter)
See the Bolt and Clamp at the rear of the shifter box? That bolt/clamp connects the shift box to the shift rod that extends thru the tunnel to the tranny. That rod is connected to the tranny with a flex joint. The Flex joint connects to the shift rod in the trans with a single roll pin.
Open the shift box: (STOCK OEM SHIFTER)
That shift rod in the box just moves forward to aft and rotates side to side.
You could also have an issue with the bolts and rubber bushings that anchor the shift box to the torque tube. The pictures that you see are a ZO6 Box. The ZO6 uses SOLID ALUMINUM/BRONZ bushings. Your NON ZO6 Box uses "RUBBER BUSHINGS" that are well known to wear out! That will have a negative impact on shift quality!!
Give that a look see and make sure they are not worn out of loose!!
Ive had the four screws that secure the shifter to the shift box come loose and had the same feeling.
Bill
Remove the console to access the shifter: (KIRBAN Aftermarket shifter)
See the Bolt and Clamp at the rear of the shifter box? That bolt/clamp connects the shift box to the shift rod that extends thru the tunnel to the tranny. That rod is connected to the tranny with a flex joint. The Flex joint connects to the shift rod in the trans with a single roll pin.
Open the shift box: (STOCK OEM SHIFTER)
That shift rod in the box just moves forward to aft and rotates side to side.
You could also have an issue with the bolts and rubber bushings that anchor the shift box to the torque tube. The pictures that you see are a ZO6 Box. The ZO6 uses SOLID ALUMINUM/BRONZ bushings. Your NON ZO6 Box uses "RUBBER BUSHINGS" that are well known to wear out! That will have a negative impact on shift quality!!
Give that a look see and make sure they are not worn out of loose!!
Ive had the four screws that secure the shifter to the shift box come loose and had the same feeling.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; May 30, 2012 at 04:37 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Poplar Bluff MO
Yea, all that is good on my car, I looked under the car with a mirror as much as I could and I could see the linkage rod just kinda flopping around as the shifter was moved. It seemed to be disconnected from the transmission some how...I couldn't see it that well
Tech Contributor
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The connection at the transmission is INSIDE the bell housing that is on the end of the torque tube that connects to the transmission. You will NOT be able to see it.
You may be able to put the car up on stands or a lift and see the the shift rod at the point wher it enters the housing but not the actual joint and pin.
Short of dropping the rear cradle, seperating the trans/rearend assy from the torque tube, you pretty much done.
Bill
You may be able to put the car up on stands or a lift and see the the shift rod at the point wher it enters the housing but not the actual joint and pin.
Short of dropping the rear cradle, seperating the trans/rearend assy from the torque tube, you pretty much done.
Bill
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Poplar Bluff MO
Yea, that's the only part I couldn't see, just judging by the way the rod was just kinda flopping around I assumed that it was disconnected there at the pin, but you are correct I couldn't exactly see it there. Would this cause 3rd and 4th gear only to grind? Is there a better pin to install in these so I don't have to worry about this anymore?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Ive never seen a pin fail.. Its a steel roll pin and it very sturdy. It could have fallen out. Thats always a possibility. I had a roll pin fall out of the internal shifter in my 97 F-150 truck for no reason at all. I epoxied it back in.
Your next job is to drop the cradle and seperate the tranny / differential from the torque tube.
Then you can see where you stand. I would send the tranny to Rick Kim for a rebuild, install a new clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, remote bleeder, TICK Master, OEM Slave Cyl and follow the up grade post for the rearend
- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966
Bill
Your next job is to drop the cradle and seperate the tranny / differential from the torque tube.
Then you can see where you stand. I would send the tranny to Rick Kim for a rebuild, install a new clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, remote bleeder, TICK Master, OEM Slave Cyl and follow the up grade post for the rearend
- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966
Bill
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Ive never seen a pin fail.. Its a steel roll pin and it very sturdy. It could have fallen out. Thats always a possibility. I had a roll pin fall out of the internal shifter in my 97 F-150 truck for no reason at all. I epoxied it back in.
Your next job is to drop the cradle and seperate the tranny / differential from the torque tube.
Then you can see where you stand. I would send the tranny to Rick Kim for a rebuild, install a new clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, remote bleeder, TICK Master, OEM Slave Cyl and follow the up grade post for the rearend
- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966
Bill
Your next job is to drop the cradle and seperate the tranny / differential from the torque tube.
Then you can see where you stand. I would send the tranny to Rick Kim for a rebuild, install a new clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, remote bleeder, TICK Master, OEM Slave Cyl and follow the up grade post for the rearend
- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966
Bill
and i too did have only 3rd and 4th gear grinding before the steel roll pin broke, i drove around with 3rd and 4th grind for a month, that could probably cause the roll pin lose from vibration
i replaced the transmission, used a beefier steel roll pin, and slid thick double layer heavy duty rubber hose to cover it and zip tied it, to prevent it from ever sliding out
i will post a pic here to what people should do if they have the chance to replace it
Last edited by Revolver ZSTi; Jul 27, 2013 at 12:56 PM.