2002 Coupe. MN6, F45, HUD, etc. Only mod is a cat-back. 73,000 miles. Newer battery (less than 1 yr old), new ignition switch. NO DTCs through the DIC or Tech 2.

Problem 1: Active Handling will engage when I'm cruising down the highway doing 65-70 mph. I'll feel a slight brake application for about one second and then it's done. It doesn't jerk the car in any direction. This happens ~3 times per week.

Most common fault is the steering position sensor, but from what I've read that usually causes at least one code. Same with the EBCM. I have a VERY respectable dealer here that said w/o a code to start with, all they could do is put labor hours into it. That doesn't work for me. Ideas?

Problem 2: I took a video to demonstrate this problem. This problem happens maybe once a month. It seems to happen EVERY morning after doing a high speed run of 130+ mph. When I turn the key over to the 'start' position I get a no start condition. The starter doesn't turn, you can't hear the fuel pump, etc. After a COMPLETELY random amount of time/tries, everything just magically works like it's supposed to and the engine fires right up. To rule out the neutral safety switch I tried starting the car w/o depressing the clutch and I can hear the fuel pump but the starter never turns.



I saw a diagram of the various ground locations and there are two, one on each side of the car, that look to be around the base of the seat belt mounting point. Are these locations inside or outside the car? The reason I ask is that I also have water leaks that I haven't figured out yet and have had water down behind the seat belt trim and the carpet behind the seats.

I appreciate any help you guys can offer.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

MY GUESS IS THAT YOU HAVE A STARTER SOLENOID ISSUE..

The next time you have the NO CRANK issue,, whack the starter while you hold the ignition in the START position (with no response) and I bet the starter will crank after it agitated. nIf it does,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

That means the SOLENOID is the issue! Very common problem..

BC

 

Your problem 1 is definitely the steering position sensor. I had the same issue, no codes displayed. After replacing no more issue.

Gary

 

How did you figure this out? Just decided to try a new SWPS and it happened to work?

 

I have the same symptoms but I also get a C1287 and occasionally, a C1288. I have a SWPS in the garage and one of these days I'll fit it.

 

I'd go with Bill on this he's usually right, heat soak could could be the final straw On the active handling try live readings with a Tech II, I had a similar problem at 65-70 mph with no codes. Does the speed vary if you accelerate hard (without spinning the wheels)

 

I was only commenting on the starting issue but,,,,,,, If you steering wheel isnt dead nuts straight when your driving straight, that could also cause an active handling issue. If your alignment is dead nuts on,, YEP, that SWPS could be BAD!

 

What I don't understand is the lack of a code(s). The system collects data from multiple sensors. If the other sensors are not detecting a condition that AH is needed, why is the system activating w/just the SWPS and not triggering a code?

If it is the SWPS, and it most likely is, I want to make darn sure of it before I throw hundreds of dollars at it.

 

Well,,,,,, try this scenario..

Your SWPS tells the EBTCM what the driver DESIRES the car to steer. LEFT, STRAIGHT or RIGHT in various degrees

The acceleration and YAW sensors tell the EBTCM which direction the car is actually going. If the car is actually going STRAIGHT (zero YAW signal) and you have a SWPS sensor that is faulty and tells the EBTCM that you have XX Left input,,, the EBTCM is going to work the brakes to get the car back to the direction that it THINKS the driver wants to go. Thats where the brake pulsations come from.. SO,,, you will NOT get any codes cause its doing what it was designed to.

IF,, the SWPS starts putting out out of range or NO SIGNAL, that will set an error and a DTC.

BC

 

Thanks, makes sense now.

 

I did get the SWPS code 1 time in the year it took me to figure out the issue. The part for an 02 was about $80 and took me and a friend about 2.5 hrs to change.

We did this over a year ago. No issues since, approximately 10k miles since changing.

Gary

 

Cool, I'll definitely look into swapping the sensor.

 

If you do not have the ability to do this your self, find an independent corvette shop not the dealer.

The key to the replacement is to not spin the steering wheel when it is disconnected from the steering rack.

Here is a link that has information on replacing the SWPS.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...on-sensor.html

Hope this helps.

Gary

 

What about the TDR?

 

Its $13. at autozone and easy access to change it. They do go bad but usually permantly bad. Give it a try.

Bet ya a cold one its the solenoid.

BC

 

I bet you're right, simply because it requires changing out the most expensive part

Is it important to get a NEW GM piece, or will I be ok w/a Napa rebuilt?

 

The last C5 stsrter I got was from Autozone and it worked out fine.

If it were me,, I would just replace the solenoid. Get one from a starter rebuild shop.

BC

 

oh? I was under the impression that the solenoid was not serviceable on these?

 

Sure it is.... You can even use an LS2 starter solenoid and purchase it at AZ. If you use the LS2 solenoid, you have to cut off the purple wire eyelet and splice on a LS2 type connector for the solenoid terminal.

BC

 

you may also want to check each speed sensor connection on the hubs.

Sometimes they can come loose.