Cool project but i can not understand why you pay over 10g for 500 hp

It can be made for less than half of that.

 

I have thought that as well, but some of the people have better times and especially in the road race area but drag racing as well when compared to FI cars that make 600+ and can break the tens barrier and H/C 346 get there with mid 400's so I have been watching to see what these Ls3 and Ls7 cars will do.

 

get a hold of Steve Woods vendor here RSD is his Company he just got done doing this and it is a animal then again he has a TVS2300 on it and it is a Drag car and a Autocrosser.

I like the LS-3 motor better can be made into a Monster it has a better block in my book

 

You will not properly build a robust forged high HP 427ci from the ground up for much less than $10K to $12K - expect closer to $15K for decent components.

On top of that you have the appropriate accessories and peripherals (cooling, clutch, brakes, suspension) etc and you see another $5K to $10K walk out the door.

Taking a stock C5 and slapping a blower on is not the most reliable and safest way to get the job done. Even blown setups needed forged bottom ends, decent cooling and inter cooling and beefed up drive trains.

The reality of chasing normally aspirated HP is that is costs money.

 

I have driven my ECS LS7 on the track for years and love it but lately I have decided to run it on the street and a simple touch of the go pedal will light up a set of INVOs. Tons of fun to drive.

 

First, it has a fairly conservative tune. There's probably another 50-75 hp in there if I wanted it. The main thing is that the engine is built right. It's not just a heads/cam/intake car.

The most important thing is that I didn't pay for it; the previous owner did. I probably paid only a $3000 premium over a stock car for all the extras.

Here's the rundown:

Vengeance LS3 418 stroker block
Callies/Manley internals
FAST 92mm intake
Trickflow 235cc heads
Yellow Terra 1.7 rockers
Trickflow pushrods
AR long-tube headers and X-pipe
Custom-ground cam 234/238 .602/.604
60# injectors

Toss in all the fasteners, gaskets, tune, etc., and it starts to add up fast.

 

I already have a brand new crate motor LS7, paid 8k for it.

Wanted to know how or what is needed to convert it to wet sump?

It's going in my 02 trailblazer & didn't want to run oil lines & sump tank if I didn't have to....

...

 

You will need an LS2/3 oil pump, pickup, and pan. I am not sure if that pump will work with the LS7 crank. I am also not sure which front cover would be needed with the LS7 crank. Normally a LS2/3 cover would be used.

Unless the block has changed since 2006 you will also need to drill for a dip stick. My block needed to be drilled.

 

Keep the dry sump! It's one of the big assets to the LS7 engine. We have done a ton of these installs now and it's not that hard.

 

Not to steal the thread...

How do you go about mounting the oil tank, etc. in a C5? I am toying with the idea of converting mine from wet to dry since I may be pulling it out to freshen it up.

 

Nope - it is not that hard, just adds another $3000 to a C5 build.

Do you often install stock bottom end LS7 crate motors, or do you replace the stock rotating assembly with forged components?

 

If you're going to install it in an '02 TB, I think you have a 24x reluctor on your stock crank now and the LS7s have a 56x wheel, plus it has the longer snout on the crank as has been pointed out.

If it were me I would look into swapping for a forged Gen III style crank. It's shorter and would have the 24x reluctor you need and you wouldn't need to buy a converter-box, which I have read mixed reviews about (reliability-wise). That way you can keep your pcm plus be able to use the Gen III hardware.

Like the others have said, install an LS2 oil pan, pump (and pickup), front cover, timing chain, and drill the block (dip stick). Only other things I can think of is/are wire harness extensions for your knock sensors (relocates them to the sides of the block), crank sensor extension harness and wire harness adapter for the TB/MAF sensor. Check Racetronix for the wiring adapters. Pretty much plug-n-play and they are first-rate quality.

Seems like Texas Speed and maybe some others (SDPC?) offer a conversion kit that has all or most of this stuff for doing an LS7 installation that's cheaper than buying it all separately. Talk to Matt at TSP, he is VERY knowledgeable on LS7 swaps and can definitely point you in the right direction.

Oh yeah btw, remember the exhaust ports on an LS7's heads are "D" shaped, so any header you buy needs to have an LS7 compatible flange installed. I think all the well-known header companies will do this, but you need to specify in advance. I know Kooks handled mine no problems, and they fit fine.

HTH

 

Im plannign to install one in my little e46 M3 when the little 3l grenades.

 

I am in the middle of this swap right now. I currently have the ls2 TIMING COVER but a ls7 TIMING CHAIN. Do I need to change the timing chain to the ls2 one so that the sensor will pick it up?

 

The chain isn't what is important. The trigger for the cam position sensor is built into the upper timing gear.

 

Yeah I meant the cam gear. I have the ls7 one on the cam. Will it work with the ls2 cover? In my other thread I think you said you were using the ls7 cam gear with the ls2 cover, correct?