2002 Z06 Actuator Codes
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2002 Z06 Actuator Codes
Have read many topics on this and performed them all except the reindexing which seems complicated for me to do. Replaced the HVAC and Actuator and still get the codes
performed the fuse, battery disconnect, clearing codes and still get the codes and warm air comes out the drivers side vent.
Occassionally get cold air from the vent after clearing codes and listening to the actuator reset however, gets warm after turning off the car and restarting. Im frustrated at this point and about to torch the vette. Any help is appreciated.
performed the fuse, battery disconnect, clearing codes and still get the codes and warm air comes out the drivers side vent.Occassionally get cold air from the vent after clearing codes and listening to the actuator reset however, gets warm after turning off the car and restarting. Im frustrated at this point and about to torch the vette. Any help is appreciated.
Last edited by Wire5150; Jun 10, 2012 at 06:13 PM.
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From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
Let's clarify...you can't replace the HVAC as its an entire system...although then again, I suppose you could at great cost. The actuators, there are two of them so you need to pull the codes and post them. There is also a vacuum source line coming from the MAP down to the firewall behind the battery...small black plastic line. This line may be disconnected from the MAP or battery acid could have damaged it where it enters the firewall.
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Let's clarify...you can't replace the HVAC as its an entire system...although then again, I suppose you could at great cost. The actuators, there are two of them so you need to pull the codes and post them. There is also a vacuum source line coming from the MAP down to the firewall behind the battery...small black plastic line. This line may be disconnected from the MAP or battery acid could have damaged it where it enters the firewall.
Any pics where this vac line really is? couldnt find it.
B0441
B0361
Last edited by Wire5150; Jun 10, 2012 at 06:11 PM.
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From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
There should be some pictures here in the forum somewhere. Please use the search to locate them. It comes from the very rear of the intake manifold off the MAP sensor and its a hard plastic line about 1/8th inch diameter. It simply follows down toward the backside of the battery where it enters the firewall. If you cleared the codes and they came right back, I doubt its the vacuum line rather you need actuators. Here is a picture of the actuator and probably what's wrong with yours. BTW, I bought a replacement from RockAuto which was significantly cheaper than OEM and opening the box, it appeared to be the OEM part but I won't promise that. You can replace it yourself but it takes about an hour of laying on your back in the driver's footwell. Its located up there on the side of the HVAC distribution box and only two screws holding it in place.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
Please reset those codes using the DIC code access as this will force the system to recalibrate. If the codes come back then something is wrong obviously.
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Already have done the replacement of the drivers actuator on this past sat (6/09) and performed the DIC rest as you suggest more than several times and listened for them to reset.
Last edited by Wire5150; Jun 11, 2012 at 01:45 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
And yet the codes came back...hmmm. Send a PM to Bill Curlee as he's had his whole system out of the car. Lucky131969 is pretty sharp as well and might have a better thought for you. I'm out of ideas.
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
RESPONSE!
You have a new Control head and a New Actuator and still have the issue. That indicates that either the control head or the actuator is still bad OR there is an issue with something else in that circuit.
You need to start troubleshooting
Make sure that you have the correct voltages on the actuator by measuring them with a meter.
Is fuse 18 good? Do you have 12 VDC on pin 5 of the actuators and the 5 VDC on pin 10 on the actuators?
Pin 7 are the actuator grounds.
Try this:
\ Disconnect the drivers actuator and plug in the old actuator (without installing it) and see if you can control the old actuator with the drivers **** on the control head.
That will also allow you to read all the voltages on that motor/connector.
BC
You have a new Control head and a New Actuator and still have the issue. That indicates that either the control head or the actuator is still bad OR there is an issue with something else in that circuit.
You need to start troubleshooting
Make sure that you have the correct voltages on the actuator by measuring them with a meter.
Is fuse 18 good? Do you have 12 VDC on pin 5 of the actuators and the 5 VDC on pin 10 on the actuators?
Pin 7 are the actuator grounds.
Try this:
\ Disconnect the drivers actuator and plug in the old actuator (without installing it) and see if you can control the old actuator with the drivers **** on the control head.
That will also allow you to read all the voltages on that motor/connector.
BC