The car seem to pull pretty hard whenever i hit an uneven surface on the road, like the solid white line on the freeway, or when switching from one surface to another(ie: when they repave only a portion of the road). whenever my tires hit these surfaces it pulls hard to that side. I just got the car aligned and thought this would fix the issue but its still there and i'm not sure what to do as it makes the car very unsettling specially if I hit something in a turn. Is this a common issue with a mis alignment or is something else going on? I do have the alignment sheet as well if that would help.

the car is a 02 z06 with Pfadt coilovers.

TIA!

 

It could be the wide tire pattern, They follow the paymen. Hi or the low side.

 

more toe in will help with this, but will also slightly reduce handling. also check for broken sway bar end links.

 

thats what ive herd, but this is so drastic I have a hard time believing its normal. I would be scared to death to take this think past 100 with it reacting this way.

I know the sway bars are good. I will post up the alignment spec sheet tonight to see what you guys think.

 

I know that run flat tires tend to do this especially when they're worn. I had the same problem until I dumped the run flats for a set of Hankook V12's. Problem is now completely gone.

 

what type of an alignment?

a street alignment, which takes the camber or crown of the road into account? or a performance alignment, which is equal on both sides.?

not the same

 

I dont have runflats on the car so i dont think thats the issue.

here is the alignment readout, any input on what needs changing/they did wrong would be great so i can take it back in and have it fixed.

 

I'm in the same boat! I just had an alignment and mine drifts to the right considerably....

 

Alignment could be better. Front cross camber is out of spec. Others don't match left to right.

Mine was bad when I bought it before I had it aligned. Full throttle was a 2-hand on the wheel deal just to hopefully keep it in the lane. It'd pull when driving on roads with more pronounced tire paths. It's now set with the following (2 numbers are L then R) and it drives way better.
F Caster 6.6* 6.9*
F Camber -0.4*
F Toe 0.10*
R Camber -0.3* -0.6*
R toe -0.10*

Similar to your current alignment, my car started with more front cross camber and toe out. Generally, the rear should have equal negative or toe-in on both sides. I'm not sure why the shop used the toe-out on my rear but it seems to work. Possibly to account for the wheels toeing back in under power.

I'm also not sure why he left the rear cross camber. Looking at my before numbers, I suspect it just ended up there when he set the rear toe and he must have figured it wouldn't hurt the straight line handling. When I do it again I will be specifically asking to make it equal side to side. I believe the only number you want to vary side to side is a little extra caster in the front right compared to the front left.

I personally would recommend to stick with a lower camber on a car that sees lots of straight line or highway driving unless you like replacing the tires due to the front inner edge wearing out. My car had -1 degree camber on the front and it was eating the inner edges of the tires.

 

Well, the alignment seems absolutely better than it was before, but not quite as good as it could be. Things that I'm seeing that could be better is the rear toe, you've got one wheel toed in, and one toed out... and your front toe is set pretty close to 0 which could make the steering twitchy at higher speeds.

We would suggest taking the car to a tech familiar with performance alignments. If you need a recommendation typically your local racing organization like SCCA/NASA/PCA/BMWCCA will have some recommendations on who you can take the car too. Your alignment is going to only be as good as the tech performing the work, so taking it to a shop who works on performance cars typically yields good results.

Here is a copy of our alignment guide. If you're daily driving the car we would suggest having the car setup to our Performance Street alignment setting. That's going to provide a good balance of tire wear and performance. Keep in mind that on our alignment guide a negative toe specification calls for TOE IN. Some machines read toe differently, so make sure your tech understands exactly what you want. We like to dial in a little bit if Toe In because of the stability it gives the car at high speeds.

 

Thanks for the reply!

Short of the toe in, toe out in the rear i couldnt see much if a difference between what your performance set up states and what my readout is, except for the front caster is 6.3 on the left and 7.2 on the right which is under you recommended 7.5. Will this caster issue and the rear toe be enough to cause the problems ive described?

I would really like to find a performance shop that could set up the alignment but since the car is so low I am limited to shops with in ground racks. I will be calling them tomorrow to let them know what they have messed up and hopefully they with rectify it free of charge.

 

Pick numbers so when you take it back you can tell them that it's only acceptable set to those numbers.