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Car had been in garage with battery disconnected for last 3 weeks. Just finished putting on my LT headers and catback, , while apart put in my mail order tuned computer, new spark plugs and wires. Go to turn it over and battery is at 11.6v all accessories, windows, ect.. work, but turn key and all electronics go dead. So tried jumping it with batt at 13v, still all works until turn the key and all goes dead and each time car doesn't even attempt to turn over. Go to pull codes but only seat sensor and TPM pop up and are all H codes no C codes because haven't driven the car.
Any thoughts, thinking may be starter related? Did I miss anything?
Not much help when it comes to electrical problems.
This I do know.
You cannot keep most(older than 2 year old) batteries in our C/5 (battery eater) vettes disconnected for three weeks without being on a trickle charge.
I also know that when I installed my Long tube headers that I had to disconnect the ground strap on the drivers side, when doing the install.
You might want to check for proper groundin at that point.
Other than that, sorry of no help.
PS, I didn't remove the starter for my install, but if you did... you might want to check to be sure that you have the wires going to their proper locations & for the nuts to be making good contact & for proper tightness.
Last edited by bumble-z; Jun 26, 2012 at 07:16 PM.
First step, swap the battery with a good battery. If your old battery is dead or dying, jumping will draw down the new battery too much to turn it over. Completely disconnect old battery and connect good one and post what happens.
Will check with new battery tomorrow knowing how picky these cars are with battery voltage, I expected to see near 14v. I will also recheck grounds to ensure I didn't disconnect one and go from there. With the computer tuned while doing all of this wasn't sure if it was from the tune or a connection. When I turn the key its like a dead battery where all electronics drain and car doesn't attempt to crank. Just don't want to have to tear it down again if possible. I will update after trying your suggestions. Thanks.
So everything goes dead when you turn the key to "ON" or when you turn it to "START"??? those are two different things, so please clarify.
Did you remove the starter while doing the LTs? The starter wires can be a pain to get back on properly if you didn't make note of which one went to which terminal. Perhaps something got mixed up.
Well all grounds checked and are good. Checked all fuses, no issues there. Think my issue is the starter solenoid, fusible link purple wire is loose and connections were way corroded and dirty. When I pulled the starter that wire was corroded to the post and the bolt was deteriorating. Don't think I am getting a good connection now, would this cause the car not to crank? This is what it looked like prior to pulling the starter off.
So everything goes dead when you turn the key to "ON" or when you turn it to "START"??? those are two different things, so please clarify.
Did you remove the starter while doing the LTs? The starter wires can be a pain to get back on properly if you didn't make note of which one went to which terminal. Perhaps something got mixed up.
Jack
When I put the key to "ON" all is fine, its when I go to "START" that all pwer dies and car doesn't attempt to crank. The positive from batt(red wire) and fusible link (orange wire) to alt and ground are good, its the purple wire and its post that look bad, may be the issue. I will have to drop the passenger side header and pull starter to re-clean and check connections. You are right about PITA.
Those need to be dissassembled, cleaned to bare metal and dielectric greased prior to reassembly.
Including the ground strap on the block above. That one didn't get done. Block surface too.
Check the other side of the block for the same condition as well as the other ends of the two block ground straps.
Learning that the purple wire is the starter lead, it makes sense that no connection there would cause the car not to crank. Unfortunately you are correct, I will have to pull it out and clean all and put it back together. Not my idea of a fun night. Thanks for the help.
Well all grounds checked and are good. Checked all fuses, no issues there. Think my issue is the starter solenoid, fusible link purple wire is loose and connections were way corroded and dirty. When I pulled the starter that wire was corroded to the post and the bolt was deteriorating. Don't think I am getting a good connection now, would this cause the car not to crank? This is what it looked like prior to pulling the starter off.
Looks like you may have found your problem. Look at all that corrosion
You can try to clean those up and see if it helps but you might just want to go ahead and replace them. Those look pretty bad...
Absolutely not. So you go to the trouble of cleaning the corrosion off...to bare metal, and then apply dielectric grease (which is an insulator)....not a conductor?
I have used dielectric grease on every automotive connection on at least eight vehicles for at least 25 years. My understanding of the mechanism is that, even though the connection has grease in it, when it is clamped, metal to metal contact still occurs. But the grease seals out oxygen which would otherwise promote corrosion. In a dry connection, corrosion products occupy more volume than the original parent metal, hence they eventually force the previously clean metal to metal contact apart suficiently to prevent adequate current transmission.
On my last repair on my Toyota, cleaning and greasing a set of starter connections similar in appearance to the photos by saxton increased the cold crank rate by 50%.
On my last repair on my Toyota, cleaning and greasing a set of starter connections similar in appearance to the photos by saxton increased the cold crank rate by 50%.
It was cleaning the connections that helped, not greasing them. Dielectric grease is non-conductive so it cannot possibly HELP. The question that is often debated is whether it HURTS an electrical connection. I've heard the argument you made and understand it as preventing corrosion on electrical connections is definitely a good thing but I still would not do it. There's absolutely no way to guarantee that you'll be able to displace all the grease between two metal contacts and thus might cause yourself problems with that connection.
I ended up pulling the starting and the solenoid connection was too corroded, I attempted to clean but ended up breaking the post where the lead goes. So off to get a new solenoid or whole starter tomorrow if needed. This should fix the issue. We will see.