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Brake rotors warp when hot

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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 10:05 PM
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Default Brake rotors warp when hot

I just returned from a 4,400 mile road trip in my '02 auto where we crossed the Rockies a couple of times. At one point on a 100+ degree day, on a 10 miles down hill run, the brake pedal felt like a brake rotor had warped. I down shifted, and tried to let the brakes cool as much as possible. Sure enough, when the road leveled off and the brakes cooled down, everything was as normal. The brakes are original with 38k miles of easy life on them but they didn't instill confidence so a change is coming.

Any suggestions as to what brakes might prevent this temporary warping in the future. I'm sure had I been driving a 6 speed, I would have had enough engine braking to prevent this problem. Trading cars is out of the question.

Thanks for your input and suggestions.

Okie
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 11:41 PM
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Hi Oakie;
I am not a brake expert but I can assure you that if your rotors warped on a down hill they would have remained warped when you leveled out. What you experienced was likely brake fade where the rotors were hot and the friction material on the pads began to reach their maximum potential. The vibration or shaking that occured was the pad grabbing and releasing on the rotor as it rotated.
When they cooled they returned to their normal state. I would have a reputable service person inspect your pads and rotors and give you some advice as to how much remaining life you may have on your brakes. There are many combinations of brake material and rotors from which to choose and many threads on this forum will give you all the data you need to make a good decision. Good Luck!
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 01:54 AM
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You suffered from pad build up on the rotors

With that many miles you are due for brakes anyway
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 11:50 AM
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Thanks guys, I appreciate your comments and as I mentioned, brake changes are a comin'. I usually get at least 50k miles out of the original pads & rotors but the Corvette is geared high enough with the auto, that there is very little engine braking to help the brakes in routine or mountain driving. I will probably go with the drilled & slotted rotors that seem to be the "standard" replacement on the Forum.

Okie
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 11:54 AM
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I would suggest you check out the Baer line of rotors. They aren't cheap by any means but you get what you pay for imho.
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 02:56 PM
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IMHO drilled/slotted are a cosmetic change only
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by OkieBikerDude
Thanks guys, I appreciate your comments and as I mentioned, brake changes are a comin'. I usually get at least 50k miles out of the original pads & rotors but the Corvette is geared high enough with the auto, that there is very little engine braking to help the brakes in routine or mountain driving. I will probably go with the drilled & slotted rotors that seem to be the "standard" replacement on the Forum.

Okie
Originally Posted by pcbunn
I would suggest you check out the Baer line of rotors. They aren't cheap by any means but you get what you pay for imho.
I can't agree more with this statement. Good quality brake rotors are not cheap but you will be glad you spent the extra money.

Originally Posted by slant
IMHO drilled/slotted are a cosmetic change only
You would be wrong. The physics behind why the slots or holes are there is quite simple. Now, for normal every day driving, you are not really going to reap the benefits; however, when you start hard braking, that is where the difference comes into play. Heat is evacuated faster. Not all rotors are created equal though. There is a reason why my 4 piston Stop Techs on my Viper will out brake the C6ZO6's 6 piston setup. That is more of a caliper thing but my rotors are of a higher quality as well!

Look at it another way, all the top braking systems on the top production cars in the world are drilled and/or slotted. The GT class at Lemans have drilled/slotted rotors. Trust me, they are not doing it just for looks.
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Y2KRoadster

You would be wrong. The physics behind why the slots or holes are there is quite simple. Now, for normal every day driving, you are not really going to reap the benefits; however, when you start hard braking, that is where the difference comes into play. Heat is evacuated faster. Not all rotors are created equal though. There is a reason why my 4 piston Stop Techs on my Viper will out brake the C6ZO6's 6 piston setup. That is more of a caliper thing but my rotors are of a higher quality as well!

Look at it another way, all the top braking systems on the top production cars in the world are drilled and/or slotted. The GT class at Lemans have drilled/slotted rotors. Trust me, they are not doing it just for looks.
This debate could go on for decades as it already has in many threads on many fiorums.
I'm not about to repeat all that has been said numerous times before.
I just disagree as do the many people who race corvettes..
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 05:21 PM
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Default Slotted rotors: cure for the commom pulsations

Here's my story of brake pulsation woe and how I fixed it, forever:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ulsations.html
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by OkieBikerDude
Thanks guys, I appreciate your comments and as I mentioned, brake changes are a comin'. I usually get at least 50k miles out of the original pads & rotors but the Corvette is geared high enough with the auto, that there is very little engine braking to help the brakes in routine or mountain driving. I will probably go with the drilled & slotted rotors that seem to be the "standard" replacement on the Forum.

Okie
Check out the Brakemotive front & rear drilled/slotted rotors with ceramic pads for $180 shipped deal that they have posted here on the forums. That takes care of all four corners at one hell of a price, and reports are that they produce very little brake dust and it's non-corrosive so you won't have to worry about your wheels. That's the set that I'm getting for my 2000 coupe, which reminds me, I still need to pay for mine so I can get them shipped in by early next week.

Here's the link: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-p...9-shipped.html
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 06:00 PM
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That is a great deal
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Y2KRoadster
I can't agree more with this statement. Good quality brake rotors are not cheap but you will be glad you spent the extra money.



You would be wrong. The physics behind why the slots or holes are there is quite simple. Now, for normal every day driving, you are not really going to reap the benefits; however, when you start hard braking, that is where the difference comes into play. Heat is evacuated faster. Not all rotors are created equal though. There is a reason why my 4 piston Stop Techs on my Viper will out brake the C6ZO6's 6 piston setup. That is more of a caliper thing but my rotors are of a higher quality as well!

Look at it another way, all the top braking systems on the top production cars in the world are drilled and/or slotted. The GT class at Lemans have drilled/slotted rotors. Trust me, they are not doing it just for looks.
No the holes are useless.

Is this the GT class you are talking about?


Maybe it was these?


Last edited by AngryTurtle; Jul 4, 2012 at 07:38 PM.
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 09:22 PM
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Like others have said the debate rages on but I know when I replaced my stock ZO6 rotors with the drilled and slotted Baer I immediately noticed an improvement in the braking response. Everybody makes their own choices but I'm glad I installed the Baer rotors, even though they cost about $1300 when I purchased them in '02.
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 11:49 PM
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Actually, there was an article in Car & Driver magazine a while back that compared stock cars to their racing counterparts and just about every racing version had slotted-only rotors. The Viper ACR had slotted-only and so did the first Cadillac CTS-V. Manufacturers equip some of their sports cars with drilled rotors because that's what the buyers (who don't realize that racers are shunning drilled holes) want. That is okay as long as the rotor is oversized to compensate for the reduction in surface area. Unfortunately, if you replace your blank rotors with drilled/slotted rotors, your braking surface area will be reduced by up to 30%. Remove the holes and the reduction is only 4%. That's an acceptable tradeoff for the elimination of pedal pulsations due t uneven pad deposits.
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