Hi guys,

I have had my 02 C5 coupe for over six years and this is my very first problem with it. The car has only just over 17k miles. I am hoping you guys can help me diagnose the problem and suggest a solution.

This is not a daily driver, but I drive it a couple times each week, and during winter I put the car on a trickle charge, and still drive it every week or two. Just the last week, when I turn the ignition key to start up, the starter will run, the engine will start, I release the key, and the engine dies. If I press the gas pedal a little as soon as I hear the engine start, it will then stay running. If I warm it up then, and turn off the engine, it will then start up ok without feeding gas.

If I use the car, turn it off, and come back half an hour later to try starting again, it will do the same as before...die right after running for the split second until I release the ignition key.

The battery reads 14+ volts on the DIC, just like it usually does. With my little multi-tester, it reads 12.3V at the terminals. It's an Optima Red Top. I don't think it is a battery issue the way the starter cranks, and the engine momentarily fires up. Any ideas? Do I have a fuel line or pump issue just developing? Hope you can help as I surely cannot be the first to experience the problem. BTW, I did a search first and did not find the same issue discussed before. Thanks very much for any ideas and solutions! Jon

 

Are you getting any codes? If so, please post them.

 

Sounds like your throttle position sensor might be going bad. Best to start with any codes and go from there before replacing parts.

 

Not getting any codes except for an unrelated one. (I recently changed tires, rims, and sensors, and the sensors don't work, so I get a check tire pressure monitoring system message.)

 

Thanks for the video...I will try to follow it and see if I have any codes. As you can tell, I expected any issues to just pop up on the DIC like the TPMS one. Jon

 

Here are the codes I just pulled from the car:

A0-LDCM:
B2282 H
B2284 H
U1064 H

A1-RDCM:
B2283 H
B2285 H
U1064 H

B0-RFA:
C2100 H C
C2105 H C
C2110 H C
C2115 H C

I found the U and C codes have to do with the lack of communications with the new sensors I put in each rim/tire. The b codes have to do with battery circuits 1 and 2, but I have no idea what they mean. BUT could it have to do with a weak battery even though the DIC says I have 14+ volts and the multi-tester says I have 12.3 volts at the battery terminals? Jon

 

I think one generic response you're going to get is to check this thread.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tion-long.html

 

Thanks 8VETTE7, I will clear the codes and try to start it again to see if the codes return.

(Re the tire pressure sensors, I did the learn steps with a new strong magnet, which failed, and then I took the car to America's Tires and they could not get the new sensors to be recognized by the car's computer. Apparently the Orange Electronics sensors that I got online, which were specified for my year of C5, were the wrong ones...they are on the wrong frequency to communicate with my car. Those are now very expensive valve stems.)

 

Clear ALL the DTCs and read what pops up after you start the engine.

BC

 

I cleared all the codes by following the video provided by 8VETTE7, then started the engine, or tried to. I turned the key to crank, the engine caught, I let go of the key, and the engine died. I then read the codes, but there were NONE now. I then turned the key to crank, the engine caught and I quickly applied some gas, and the engine continued to run. Checked for codes and still none of course. So this means I should check the ignition switch?

Mr. Curlee, I looked at the links of yours that 8VETTE7 kindly provided, and wowser it is beyond a simpleton like me to follow. One of my sons is mechanically inclined and maybe he can help me. Is there a danger in continuing to start the car with a little gas pedal assist as soon as the engine first catches? Will I be just waiting for the ignition switch to get progressively worse, or could my car have a different issue?

Thanks to both of you for the assistance. Jon

 

If your car wont stay running and shuts off when you release it from the CRANK POSITION,, you very well could have an IGNITION SWITCH issue.

Having ZERO DTCs tells me that the switch isnt letting the engine run and is shutting off the car like you would normaly. The BCM and PCM are happy with the shut down.

You can follow my IGNITION SWITCH post and check ALL the FUSES that get power when the ignition switch is ON with a DC Volt meter and see if all of them have battery power (HOT in RUN & START)

Each FUSE has two tiny test points on top of the fuse. Read BOTH of those test points to chassis or battery ground. You should see full battery voltage on all of the HOT in RUN & START fuses. If you see a lot less or no voltage, the switch or power supply to it could be bad.

That will tell you the TRUTH on the ignition switch.

Bill

 

I will get my son to help me with the diagnosis instructions this weekend hopefully. Are you guys reading the part about how the engine will stay running if I just feed it some gas right after she cranks? I then let go of the ignition key, so it is not in the crank position anymore, and she stays running. I let off the gas too and she stays running. Jon

 

I will get my son to help me with the diagnosis instructions this weekend hopefully. Are you guys reading the part about how the engine will stay running if I just feed it some gas right after she cranks? I then let go of the ignition key, so it is not in the crank position anymore, and she stays running. I let off the gas too at that time and she stays running. Jon