Ashc2025

That appears to be the case (from the post). There is little to no info on this, they make all kind of hydraulics for other applications tho. I like the stock feel, and will most likely shy away from the RAM.

This^ brings light into this dark world.

When I took mine out, that bleeder screw was in there tight. I wonder what could have broke it's seal.

craig04c5

My OEM slave gave up after only 28K miles and 5 years on my coupe. Luckily I had GMPP because it was out of new car warranty. I put a new C5 Z06 clutch and pressure plate since they had it torn down to rreplace the slave and only cost me for parts. So if there is a better unit out there it may be worth it.

Ashc2025

Well, this puts me on the fence again

Honestly it does look like that's my only option. The opinions are so diverse with the hydraulics, and I'm loosing more and more pressure by the day, it feels like it's barely dis-engaging the clutch now. Still no flid seepage, I even held the clutch down to retain pressure overnight, and no fluid. When I bled the line no bubbles came out either. I sometimes think I don't have a slave cylinder at all, just a teenage spring that sometimes does what you ask and takes all your money.

tak06

Sounds like a master cylinder problem if there isn't any leakage.

Had my slave and the entire clutch assembly replaced today on my 12k. mile car. Had the inspection plate removed and the tech could'nt see any leaks but told him to replace everything anyways as the pedal was occasionally sticking to the floor.
In fact after disassembly he found the leak from the slave, I guess it must have evaporated on the way to the dealership.
The new OEM clutch engages about half inch from the floor now, hard to get use to.

cptinjak

Just because there is no leakage does not rule out the slave. I've had them pretty much entirely give up and never saw any fluid leaking.

Jack

johnson-rod

Slave leaks are sneaky.

Then there is the whole "denial" thing.

Change the master cylinder. It's good therapy.

And you need the practice with the "quick disconnect" fitting for the slave swap.

Ashc2025

You read my mind. I have a Tick MC on it's way and I'm just going to replace everything. My thinking is the new MC will allow me to drive it better form time to time so i can save up time a $$ for the SC replacement. Mainly because I'm giong to have another clutch on hand incase of contamination.

Tron Z

There is a large boot on the slave cylinder that will retain leaked fluid, before it starts dripping from the bell housing.

bumble-z

Really???
I'd like to see a close up of this large rubber boot, you speak of.

EDIT:... Thank's LoneStarFRC for posting the picture of the C6 slave & large rubber dust boot

LoneStarFRC

I would as well.

I think he may be referring to a C6 slave with the dust boot.

Tron Z

Yes, my bad. I was just helping a bud with his C6 and when I read this thread, it was like deja vu all over again ... only it's not deja vu, because the boot is a C6 / XLR item.

My apologies!

LoneStarFRC

No worries, BTDT.

I really wish we had a boot on the C5 though. Don't know if a C6 boot could be modified to work on a C5, or maybe someone will come out with an adapter for the quick-connect hydraulic fitting so a stock C6 slave could be bolted up. GM obviously thought enough of the value of a boot to incorporate it into the design of C6s.



Maybe the C6 housing could be modified to accept a C5 hose?

Prolly wishful thinking.

Tron Z

[QUOTE=Maybe the C6 housing could be modified to accept a C5 hose?
Prolly wishful thinking. [/QUOTE]

I would think that it would be simple enough to fab a completely new hose using AN fittings and braided hose. The boot should cut down on the black muck accumulation in the reservoir and the resulting premature failures of the hydraulic components. Surely someone has tried this mod, no?

Ashc2025

the 3 retaining bolts for the clutch pedal assembly........make me want to kick puppies.

johnson-rod

The real fun has not yet begun.

Tron Z

Hold on there pardner! Put down that wrench and step away from the car.

Sounds like it's time to take a break and sit back with a glass of single malt. Things will look a lot different after an adult beverage, or five.

LoneStarFRC

Here, here, I'll drink to that........

(just no scotch thank you very much.)

Ashc2025

I did, and watched the wife do it. She has smaller hands and limbs.

Ashc2025

Instructions for the master cylinder said to "bottom out" the adjustment linkage for the clutch lever. DONE! However it won't reach to the pedal. Now I can turn the linkage out and extend the pedal, but it doesn't seem like it's at it's "lowest adjustment" any more; as per the manufature directions. And the directions seemed to have left out this little detail of initial extension.

Am I on the right track?

cptinjak

You mean with the pedal all the way up, with the aid of the return spring? You will likely need to depress the pedal partially to attach the heim joint on the end of the arm. That is normal with with the adjustable setups. You start with the arm fully compressed, and adjust outward until you achieve full disengagement. Many people (including myself) take the assist spring off the clutch pedal during this job. I don't find it necessary and prefer a truer pedal feel.

My pedal does not return fully with my Tick master, LS7 clutch/pp, and properly shimmed OEM slave. I would estimate that I have roughly half the pedal travel of a stock setup. This is because the Tilton cylinder displaces so much more fluid than a stock setup that the slave moves much farther than it does with a stock master as a result the same amount of pedal throw. You could MAKE it return fully the the stock location, but it would require installing a pedal stop at the point of clutch disengagement to avoid hyper-extension of the slave, which is more work that I bothered to do for my personal car.

Tick just takes a Tilton cylinder, slaps on a dual-threaded-adapter-thingy, throws a heim joint on the end, and calls it done. It's far from perfect. All they are trying to avoid is someone hyper-extending and ruining the slave. Use common sense and make sure that your attachment is at the "shortest" setting that can physically connect the master to the pedal.

Jack