I say this because my clutchfluid has become Houdini after a recent clutch change and speedbleeder install.

What I did:
Replaced the stock Clutch 48Kmi to a Mantic E2 for high HP applications. Changed all the bearings out and added a Tick Performance Speed bleeder.

What's happening:
Clutch Fluid is slowly dissapearing. After about a week and a half of driving the fluid reservoir goes dry and foot goes to the floor. Rebleeding with the speed bleeder produces copious ammounts of bubbles, almost foamy, for the begging of the bleed. Then Clears up and holds for about another week of driving. ( Highway or city driving doesn't seem to empty the reservoir any differently )

The Kicker:
I can't find Fluid leaks anywhere!!! I checked all connecting points from the master Cyl, Reservoir, quick disconnect points, slave cylinder, and speed bleeder connections. Watching all the lines while engauging/disengauging clutch produces no fluid drips or drops.

I didn't replace the slave cylinder since the car is an 02', had such low miles, and babied. Asside from some scortching on the flywheel the old clutch plate looked to have lots of life left. The cap is always left on with the bladder, and as far as I know everything was installed correctly.

SO, anybody have a clue as to what is going on or perhaps there is a mystery leake somewhere that another could have had experience with? Car is apart right now, so I'd like to fix it.

 

"Car is apart right now & I'd like to fix it".

I cannot believe you would go through all the time & money to install a great clutch package with out replaceing a ten plus,, year old slave & through out.

That is where I'd begin, looking.

You might get lucky....

Pull the bell inspection plate & see if the Tick's remote bleeder is leaking & running down into that area of (extreme heat) may have dissipated some of the fluid that has been leaking into that particular area.
(look real good up high)

The crush washer area have been known to leak in some remote bleeder add ons.

I am assuming that you have already checked the quick disconnect from the slave to clutch m/c for a leak in that area.

 

Live and learn, crazier things have happened. I just love taking things appart I guess

I have the inspection plate off, and the car's been on stands for about a week now. No moisture arround the crush washer, nor in the bell housing. Quick disconnect is dry as well.

Anything that would only leak under driving stress?

 

How about a leak from the clutch m/c.

Look behind the driver's side close out wheel well liner .... at the clutch m/c for leak in that area.
Look on the floor board area under the clutch m/c arm to clutch pedal.

Look & smell for leak in those areas.
Clutch reservor or cap cracked?

 

BAM!!! I found it.

Alright this leak is so slow that it had to sit over night to show signs, like some fluid moisture and a drop of fluid. The bleeder housing it's self is leaking through the AN threads on the braided line from the Slave Cylinder. My guess is after driving, sitting in a parking lot or overnight, The excess pressure albeit from heat or driving is pushed out this opening. So checking the reservoir right after driving won't show reduction in fluid, but over time it will slowly bleed out and allow air into the line. Would also be the reason I can't find and immediate signs while pumping on the pedal while the car has been sitting.

Guess I need a replacement or some such...

 

So, the braided line that you speak of, is the after market Tick remote bleeder line at the crush washer & fitting .....correct?

 

 

It's at the other end, the bleeder valve it's self.

 

....*sigh*

Honestly I was on a budget, and the guys I bought everything from said i should be alright. Honestly there's a lot of conflicting opinions on this. As soon as a did the installation someone from the same shop told me I should have replaced it.......so now I'm like **** I already put it back togethere. Being this is my first manual I've worked on I didn't know any better.


Like I said, live and learn. It works, it slips well, and asside from the leak it's way more forgiving than the stocker I had in there. If it goes it goes....can't do much about it now. I have access to everything I need so I'll take care of the issue when it arrises.

 

Alright, I'm still leaking fluid somewhere and all my inspection points are dry, any clue?

 

Maybe the ten year old slave?

 

I've replaced a two year old slave because I didn't want to have to drop everything twice. Cheap insurance.

 

I'd put money on it.

 

Yeah, but there isn't any fluid arround or coming from it. Can it drip inside the torque tube? I've gone through about 2 reservoirs of clutchfluid in a month. I'd really hate to tear the whole thing apart again, replace the slave, and STILL have a mystery leak somewhere.


Best slave for a 800HP rated clutch (Mantic e2), on a TT car?

 

It's probably getting onto the disc and then vaporizing with the heat.

Last I checked, there is no aftermarket slave. Master, yes Slave, no
You're stuck with the GM part.

 

RAM makes a slave but just run the GM piece and you're good.

 

Makes sence, I just wish there was a tell tale sign, maybe a residue, or discoloration somewhere. For now I'll just keep an eye on my cylinder untill I get the time to take it apart. Might as well do the coupling bushings while I'm down there.

 

You're also running some risk of possible disk contamination as well, if it hasn't already happened.

 

More than likely it already has considering the amount of fluid he says he's been adding.

 

that sound's horrible. The clutch isn't slipping, when I checked it out the drive and bearing seemed dry. The clutch still had a glossy powder coat on it too, I say this because I know how corrosive fluid is.

Is there a UV dye or anythign that you can add to the fluid? That way I can get in there with a black light and maybe find a glowing spot.