Magic Clutch Fluid
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Colorado springs
You mean with the pedal all the way up, with the aid of the return spring? You will likely need to depress the pedal partially to attach the heim joint on the end of the arm. That is normal with with the adjustable setups. You start with the arm fully compressed, and adjust outward until you achieve full disengagement. Many people (including myself) take the assist spring off the clutch pedal during this job. I don't find it necessary and prefer a truer pedal feel.
My pedal does not return fully with my Tick master, LS7 clutch/pp, and properly shimmed OEM slave. I would estimate that I have roughly half the pedal travel of a stock setup. This is because the Tilton cylinder displaces so much more fluid than a stock setup that the slave moves much farther than it does with a stock master as a result the same amount of pedal throw. You could MAKE it return fully the the stock location, but it would require installing a pedal stop at the point of clutch disengagement to avoid hyper-extension of the slave, which is more work that I bothered to do for my personal car.
Tick just takes a Tilton cylinder, slaps on a dual-threaded-adapter-thingy, throws a heim joint on the end, and calls it done. It's far from perfect. All they are trying to avoid is someone hyper-extending and ruining the slave. Use common sense and make sure that your attachment is at the "shortest" setting that can physically connect the master to the pedal.
Jack
My pedal does not return fully with my Tick master, LS7 clutch/pp, and properly shimmed OEM slave. I would estimate that I have roughly half the pedal travel of a stock setup. This is because the Tilton cylinder displaces so much more fluid than a stock setup that the slave moves much farther than it does with a stock master as a result the same amount of pedal throw. You could MAKE it return fully the the stock location, but it would require installing a pedal stop at the point of clutch disengagement to avoid hyper-extension of the slave, which is more work that I bothered to do for my personal car.
Tick just takes a Tilton cylinder, slaps on a dual-threaded-adapter-thingy, throws a heim joint on the end, and calls it done. It's far from perfect. All they are trying to avoid is someone hyper-extending and ruining the slave. Use common sense and make sure that your attachment is at the "shortest" setting that can physically connect the master to the pedal.
Jack
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Thanks, this is what I was wondering. The pedal didn't come to it's stock resting position, It was actually on the floor, depressing the button. Never mentioned anything in the directions. They actually go straight to bleeding, but there isn't any clutch travel...without adjustment.
http://www.tickperformance.com/contact/
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Colorado springs
Well, my buddy Murphy must have been helping me with this.
I was able to get the car down and incrementally adjusted the cylinder until the Slave disengaged the clutch, It''s still about 1/2" from the stock height give or take. I based it on weather or not I could get it into gear with the engine running...Reverse especially.
While I was going back and fourth adjusting testing and checking my fluid level, I smelt something burning.....electrical.
My turbo pump on the Drivers side kicked the bucket and started spewing smoke. I have NO idea how it happened. I think it could have seized up, but I'm not sure nor does it matter because it's toast.
When I get a turbowerx pump in, I will continue with a test ride. Good news is that the clutch disengages and It didn't dump any fluid on the floor. HOORAH!
I was able to get the car down and incrementally adjusted the cylinder until the Slave disengaged the clutch, It''s still about 1/2" from the stock height give or take. I based it on weather or not I could get it into gear with the engine running...Reverse especially.
While I was going back and fourth adjusting testing and checking my fluid level, I smelt something burning.....electrical.
My turbo pump on the Drivers side kicked the bucket and started spewing smoke. I have NO idea how it happened. I think it could have seized up, but I'm not sure nor does it matter because it's toast.
When I get a turbowerx pump in, I will continue with a test ride. Good news is that the clutch disengages and It didn't dump any fluid on the floor. HOORAH!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 941
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From: Grand Rapids MI
Well, my buddy Murphy must have been helping me with this.
I was able to get the car down and incrementally adjusted the cylinder until the Slave disengaged the clutch, It''s still about 1/2" from the stock height give or take. I based it on weather or not I could get it into gear with the engine running...Reverse especially.
While I was going back and fourth adjusting testing and checking my fluid level, I smelt something burning.....electrical.
My turbo pump on the Drivers side kicked the bucket and started spewing smoke. I have NO idea how it happened. I think it could have seized up, but I'm not sure nor does it matter because it's toast.
When I get a turbowerx pump in, I will continue with a test ride. Good news is that the clutch disengages and It didn't dump any fluid on the floor. HOORAH!
I was able to get the car down and incrementally adjusted the cylinder until the Slave disengaged the clutch, It''s still about 1/2" from the stock height give or take. I based it on weather or not I could get it into gear with the engine running...Reverse especially.
While I was going back and fourth adjusting testing and checking my fluid level, I smelt something burning.....electrical.
My turbo pump on the Drivers side kicked the bucket and started spewing smoke. I have NO idea how it happened. I think it could have seized up, but I'm not sure nor does it matter because it's toast.
When I get a turbowerx pump in, I will continue with a test ride. Good news is that the clutch disengages and It didn't dump any fluid on the floor. HOORAH!
Sorry for your bad luck! Once you resume testing, do the flat ground test. Make sure that in 1st, the car doesn't roll will the clutch disengaged. Hold the RPMs at/near redline for a few seconds. If the car stays put, you're good.
Jack
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Colorado springs
Got my new pump in, now my car sounds a bit like a turboprop 
Not super noticeable, but a nice reassuring hum.
OK, I took her to work today and so far so good. There was a lot of heavy traffic so this is a good chance to get the fluid flowing so to speak. I adjust the pedal and I'm about 3/4 to and inch from the top and my shift point is about half way. First is very grabby and 2nd slips nicely. A lot better than before, when it would shudder. I can get in and out of 1st and reverse. With reverse being a little resistant initially, but if I pull it out of gear it will slip right back in without trouble. I'm goign to check my linkage on the short throw to the tranny. This new MC is heavy, I mean it wants to throw my foot out the back window heavy. I am comparing it to stock tho.
So far no leak under the car, or fluid loss. And the old MC didn't show any signs of leaking either. I'm still agreeing with you guys that it's the slave, but for now the car is still driveable.
I'm going to do some more testing and I'll keep ya'll posted.
Not super noticeable, but a nice reassuring hum. OK, I took her to work today and so far so good. There was a lot of heavy traffic so this is a good chance to get the fluid flowing so to speak. I adjust the pedal and I'm about 3/4 to and inch from the top and my shift point is about half way. First is very grabby and 2nd slips nicely. A lot better than before, when it would shudder. I can get in and out of 1st and reverse. With reverse being a little resistant initially, but if I pull it out of gear it will slip right back in without trouble. I'm goign to check my linkage on the short throw to the tranny. This new MC is heavy, I mean it wants to throw my foot out the back window heavy. I am comparing it to stock tho.
So far no leak under the car, or fluid loss. And the old MC didn't show any signs of leaking either. I'm still agreeing with you guys that it's the slave, but for now the car is still driveable.
I'm going to do some more testing and I'll keep ya'll posted.
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
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Got my new pump in, now my car sounds a bit like a turboprop Not super noticeable, but a nice reassuring hum.
OK, I took her to work today and so far so good. There was a lot of heavy traffic so this is a good chance to get the fluid flowing so to speak. I adjust the pedal and I'm about 3/4 to and inch from the top and my shift point is about half way. First is very grabby and 2nd slips nicely. A lot better than before, when it would shudder. I can get in and out of 1st and reverse. With reverse being a little resistant initially, but if I pull it out of gear it will slip right back in without trouble. I'm goign to check my linkage on the short throw to the tranny. This new MC is heavy, I mean it wants to throw my foot out the back window heavy. I am comparing it to stock tho.
So far no leak under the car, or fluid loss. And the old MC didn't show any signs of leaking either. I'm still agreeing with you guys that it's the slave, but for now the car is still driveable.
I'm going to do some more testing and I'll keep ya'll posted.
Not super noticeable, but a nice reassuring hum. OK, I took her to work today and so far so good. There was a lot of heavy traffic so this is a good chance to get the fluid flowing so to speak. I adjust the pedal and I'm about 3/4 to and inch from the top and my shift point is about half way. First is very grabby and 2nd slips nicely. A lot better than before, when it would shudder. I can get in and out of 1st and reverse. With reverse being a little resistant initially, but if I pull it out of gear it will slip right back in without trouble. I'm goign to check my linkage on the short throw to the tranny. This new MC is heavy, I mean it wants to throw my foot out the back window heavy. I am comparing it to stock tho.
So far no leak under the car, or fluid loss. And the old MC didn't show any signs of leaking either. I'm still agreeing with you guys that it's the slave, but for now the car is still driveable.
I'm going to do some more testing and I'll keep ya'll posted.
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Colorado springs
UPDATE!
Alright this is going to either confuse, make sense, or bewilder your mind.
I've been driving it around for quite a while now, granted not every day but at least once a week since my last post; Heavy traffic and highway driving. The clutch feel started getting soft after the first couple of drives, but the shift point didn't move and I never lost any fluid, so I just carried on business as usual and figured the new MC was breaking in.
After this happened the shift point moved back down to the floor, and then I thought the lock bolts came loose and the adjustment was off.....nope! The adjustment bar was in the same place as before. So I bled the system, and no air cam out of the line. I did two bleeds just to make sure and sew her back up. BTW I still didn't lose any fluid so I readjust the bar. I extended the arm about 1/8"-1/4" longer and took a drive. NOW the thing shifts like I just bought the car?????
I'm not quite sure how a shift point can go from the floor to the stock position in 1/8" or so, have I finally fixed it? I'm still not losing fluid, and why was I losing it before. I'm so lost, it's beer time!
Alright this is going to either confuse, make sense, or bewilder your mind.
I've been driving it around for quite a while now, granted not every day but at least once a week since my last post; Heavy traffic and highway driving. The clutch feel started getting soft after the first couple of drives, but the shift point didn't move and I never lost any fluid, so I just carried on business as usual and figured the new MC was breaking in.
After this happened the shift point moved back down to the floor, and then I thought the lock bolts came loose and the adjustment was off.....nope! The adjustment bar was in the same place as before. So I bled the system, and no air cam out of the line. I did two bleeds just to make sure and sew her back up. BTW I still didn't lose any fluid so I readjust the bar. I extended the arm about 1/8"-1/4" longer and took a drive. NOW the thing shifts like I just bought the car?????
I'm not quite sure how a shift point can go from the floor to the stock position in 1/8" or so, have I finally fixed it? I'm still not losing fluid, and why was I losing it before. I'm so lost, it's beer time!
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From: Colorado springs
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Oh man, does THIS bring back memories. I had a 1989 Thunderbird SC had had to change one of these on. The clutch would barely be usable in the cold. When the car warmed up it would start working fine. In the summertime there was no problem. Replacing the slave fixed it. Like the C5, trans removal was necessary.
Looks like I'm going to relive this, in spades. My C5 has just started having clutch trouble like those in this thread. I strongly suspected the slave when it happened, and even more so now. Lost the clutch in traffic on the NJ Turnpike 10 days ago. Drove very conservatively and had to shift without clutch. I got to a service area and found the fluid was gone. The res was full when I left NC earlier that day. Bought fluid and refilled it and I was good to go. I have seen no fluid anywhere outside of the res. My car is a 2001 'vert and has about 65K on it. I am the original owner. Car not abused.
This thread has some good pointers. I think I will need to procure a new slave, and get ready to do this job in the spring, after I plan on moving to a better house - with usable garage and workspace.
I'm guessing that there must be a good thread on this procedure, where only the back half of the driveline gets removed, vs the whole thing. Search time again....
I had a 1989 Thunderbird SC had had to change one of these on. The clutch would barely be usable in the cold. When the car warmed up it would start working fine. In the summertime there was no problem. Replacing the slave fixed it. Like the C5, trans removal was necessary. Looks like I'm going to relive this, in spades. My C5 has just started having clutch trouble like those in this thread. I strongly suspected the slave when it happened, and even more so now. Lost the clutch in traffic on the NJ Turnpike 10 days ago.
Drove very conservatively and had to shift without clutch. I got to a service area and found the fluid was gone. The res was full when I left NC earlier that day. Bought fluid and refilled it and I was good to go. I have seen no fluid anywhere outside of the res. My car is a 2001 'vert and has about 65K on it. I am the original owner. Car not abused.This thread has some good pointers. I think I will need to procure a new slave, and get ready to do this job in the spring, after I plan on moving to a better house - with usable garage and workspace.
I'm guessing that there must be a good thread on this procedure, where only the back half of the driveline gets removed, vs the whole thing. Search time again....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
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Oh man, does THIS bring back memories. I had a 1989 Thunderbird SC had had to change one of these on. The clutch would barely be usable in the cold. When the car warmed up it would start working fine. In the summertime there was no problem. Replacing the slave fixed it. Like the C5, trans removal was necessary.
Looks like I'm going to relive this, in spades. My C5 has just started having clutch trouble like those in this thread. I strongly suspected the slave when it happened, and even more so now. Lost the clutch in traffic on the NJ Turnpike 10 days ago. Drove very conservatively and had to shift without clutch. I got to a service area and found the fluid was gone. The res was full when I left NC earlier that day. Bought fluid and refilled it and I was good to go. I have seen no fluid anywhere outside of the res. My car is a 2001 'vert and has about 65K on it. I am the original owner. Car not abused.
This thread has some good pointers. I think I will need to procure a new slave, and get ready to do this job in the spring, after I plan on moving to a better house - with usable garage and workspace.
I'm guessing that there must be a good thread on this procedure, where only the back half of the driveline gets removed, vs the whole thing. Search time again....
I had a 1989 Thunderbird SC had had to change one of these on. The clutch would barely be usable in the cold. When the car warmed up it would start working fine. In the summertime there was no problem. Replacing the slave fixed it. Like the C5, trans removal was necessary. Looks like I'm going to relive this, in spades. My C5 has just started having clutch trouble like those in this thread. I strongly suspected the slave when it happened, and even more so now. Lost the clutch in traffic on the NJ Turnpike 10 days ago.
Drove very conservatively and had to shift without clutch. I got to a service area and found the fluid was gone. The res was full when I left NC earlier that day. Bought fluid and refilled it and I was good to go. I have seen no fluid anywhere outside of the res. My car is a 2001 'vert and has about 65K on it. I am the original owner. Car not abused.This thread has some good pointers. I think I will need to procure a new slave, and get ready to do this job in the spring, after I plan on moving to a better house - with usable garage and workspace.
I'm guessing that there must be a good thread on this procedure, where only the back half of the driveline gets removed, vs the whole thing. Search time again....
