Magic Clutch Fluid
Team Owner
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Team Owner
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
that sound's horrible. The clutch isn't slipping, when I checked it out the drive and bearing seemed dry. The clutch still had a glossy powder coat on it too, I say this because I know how corrosive fluid is. Is there a UV dye or anythign that you can add to the fluid? That way I can get in there with a black light and maybe find a glowing spot.
There may be some sort of dye product out there on the market for use with brake fluid (that's actually the fluid used in the clutch hydraulics here), but I'm not aware of any. Probably more trouble than it's worth really.
I see you're in Crestview (I spent a week there one night unfortunately
), but if you can get your vehicle to JAX (Green Cove Springs actually), I can recommend a very good shop to get work done. They work on strictly Camaros/Firebirds and Corvettes. Knowledgeable, reliable, fair and MOST importantly - honest. Can't ask for much more.LMK if you're interested.
Race Director
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From: Whippany NJ
CI 6-7-8-9 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
NCM Sinkhole Donor
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I DO have a Tick adjustable M/C and the pedal pressure did go up over stock, but not so bad as to want me to remove it. I'm very accustomed to it now, and what's more I never get pedal-stuck-to-the-floor-at-high-rpm-shifts like I used to.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 941
Likes: 3
From: Grand Rapids MI
There are TWO parts to the clutch hydraulic system: A master cylinder and a slave cylinder. The master cylinder is (pretty much) in plain sight, so if you cannot see a leak there, I would feel pretty confident assuming it is THE ONLY OTHER PART OF THAT SYSTEM. The slave cylinder, (which just so happens to be hidden from view.)
Replace it.
Jack
Replace it.
Jack
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,239
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From: Naples FL
St. Jude Donor '12
There are UV dyes you can use, that was my first thought if you want confirmation. My first thought overall is the slave sorry to say. Here's a couple of links for you. I'm a huge proponent of UV dyes, can save many hours of work.
http://www.ehow.com/how_6741808_bad-...-cylinder.html
http://www.supercool.ac/products/aut...-1-oz-29-5-ml/
http://www.ehow.com/how_6741808_bad-...-cylinder.html
http://www.supercool.ac/products/aut...-1-oz-29-5-ml/
Last edited by Coach62; Sep 30, 2012 at 10:39 AM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 574
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From: Colorado springs
If your clutch is not slipping, chances are you're still good. Never know though.
There may be some sort of dye product out there on the market for use with brake fluid (that's actually the fluid used in the clutch hydraulics here), but I'm not aware of any. Probably more trouble than it's worth really.
I see you're in Crestview (I spent a week there one night unfortunately), but if you can get your vehicle to JAX (Green Cove Springs actually), I can recommend a very good shop to get work done. They work on strictly Camaros/Firebirds and Corvettes. Knowledgeable, reliable, fair and MOST importantly - honest. Can't ask for much more.
LMK if you're interested.
There may be some sort of dye product out there on the market for use with brake fluid (that's actually the fluid used in the clutch hydraulics here), but I'm not aware of any. Probably more trouble than it's worth really.
I see you're in Crestview (I spent a week there one night unfortunately
), but if you can get your vehicle to JAX (Green Cove Springs actually), I can recommend a very good shop to get work done. They work on strictly Camaros/Firebirds and Corvettes. Knowledgeable, reliable, fair and MOST importantly - honest. Can't ask for much more.LMK if you're interested.
There are TWO parts to the clutch hydraulic system: A master cylinder and a slave cylinder. The master cylinder is (pretty much) in plain sight, so if you cannot see a leak there, I would feel pretty confident assuming it is THE ONLY OTHER PART OF THAT SYSTEM. The slave cylinder, (which just so happens to be hidden from view.)
Replace it.
Jack
Replace it.
Jack
You're probably right, I'm going to really give the whole system another walk arround. Dropping the tube out isn't a fun job, especially with an STS. There are UV dyes you can use, that was my first thought if you want confirmation. My first thought overall is the slave sorry to say. Here's a couple of links for you. I'm a huge proponent of UV dyes, can save many hours of work.
http://www.ehow.com/how_6741808_bad-...-cylinder.html
http://www.supercool.ac/products/aut...-1-oz-29-5-ml/
http://www.ehow.com/how_6741808_bad-...-cylinder.html
http://www.supercool.ac/products/aut...-1-oz-29-5-ml/
For now the car will be parked. If i'm not slipping, then I'm not going to risk blowing my clutch. If there is a leaky seal then there's no telling when it might give up on life and destroy everything.
Forum member are as awesome as always, I'll keep ya'll informed of what I can find
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Team Owner
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That was clutch #2, and it only had about 20k miles on it (car had 90k). The shop that put in that clutch swore up and down that they used a new slave, but I'm pretty sure they did not. It kept binding worse and worse until the slave completely tore apart. When it was torn down for clutch #3, the mech (whom I trust) said that there would have been no air-gap based on his measurements.
You won't blow your clutch, you'll blow your slave. It won't "destroy everything", but you'll be stranded. Some cars you can drive clutchlessly, but I have not found this to be the case with C5s. 
For now the car will be parked. If i'm not slipping, then I'm not going to risk blowing my clutch. If there is a leaky seal then there's no telling when it might give up on life and destroy everything.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Grand Rapids MI
Jack
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From: Colorado springs
http://www.southerncarparts.com/corv...er-p-3145.html
Says durable for high performance.....or is it just a stocker?
I'm having trouble getting into Reverse with the engine running. Engine off-Key on; all gears are butter, but turn the car off and Reverse is hit or miss, mostly miss. Also 2nd is hard to shift into in the higher RPM's. Friction point is almost on the floor. Still no fluid present either.
I'm going to throw the back end up on stands and start it in first with the clutch down, to see if my wheels are spinning. Sorry if I'm talking in circles a bit, but I'm in denial if the slave went out. Only because I don't want to drop the bottom out again LOL.
Says durable for high performance.....or is it just a stocker?
I'm having trouble getting into Reverse with the engine running. Engine off-Key on; all gears are butter, but turn the car off and Reverse is hit or miss, mostly miss. Also 2nd is hard to shift into in the higher RPM's. Friction point is almost on the floor. Still no fluid present either.
I'm going to throw the back end up on stands and start it in first with the clutch down, to see if my wheels are spinning. Sorry if I'm talking in circles a bit, but I'm in denial if the slave went out. Only because I don't want to drop the bottom out again LOL.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Colorado springs
Well, that's what I was getting at.
I'm not against a OEM slave just weighing my options. If Something's been designed for higher performance then I would want to go with that. Been told the Stock hydraulics arn't the greatest in the car too. So why would I get something that would blow from the pressure of the aftermarket clutch?
If it's good to go then that's what I gotta do. But if there's somethign better out there I would really like the peace of mind. Already dorked it up once.....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 941
Likes: 3
From: Grand Rapids MI
The Ram is just an adjustable O.E. as far as I saw. The internal plunger stop is shorten for a lil further pump action, no restrictors in line, and adjustable rod to set slave extension.
I've had great results with modding a factory one like Ram does! Look up " adjustable master cylinder mod"
I've had great results with modding a factory one like Ram does! Look up " adjustable master cylinder mod"
That is from this thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...er-vs-oem.html
Seems to confirm my assumption that they are using a mainly OEM piece. The "adjustability" is a band-aid for improperly shimmed units, IMO.
Jack
Jack
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
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Contamination? Not necessarily.
I ran a leaking slave all winter one year. It would lose the entire reservoir overnight.
When I replaced it in the spring, the clutch and disk were dry as a bone. That was 45K miles ago and the clutch is still going strong.
I ran a leaking slave all winter one year. It would lose the entire reservoir overnight.
When I replaced it in the spring, the clutch and disk were dry as a bone. That was 45K miles ago and the clutch is still going strong.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 564
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From: Vancouver British Columbia
I'm scheduled to have the OEM slave/disc/pressure plate/flywheel replaced this coming Tuesday Oct 16th. at a Dealership, car is a '02Z 12k. miles, not tracked and totally stock. Don't wish to remove the driveline twice, good insurance and peace of mind. I noticed brake fluid at the lower bell housing and the clutch would stick to the floor at times and diminished fluid level at the m/c, so I'm assuming that it's the slave. Maybe an expensive assumption of $1900.
After reading this thread, is there actually an inspection plate whereby I could have looked at the slave or bleeder screw without removing the driveline? If so can someone tell me where and how difficult is it to get at?
After reading this thread, is there actually an inspection plate whereby I could have looked at the slave or bleeder screw without removing the driveline? If so can someone tell me where and how difficult is it to get at?
Last edited by tak06; Oct 14, 2012 at 11:00 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 941
Likes: 3
From: Grand Rapids MI
I'm scheduled to have the OEM slave/disc/pressure plate/flywheel replaced this coming Tuesday Oct 16th. at a Dealership, car is a '02Z 12k. miles, not tracked and totally stock. Don't wish to remove the driveline twice, good insurance and peace of mind. I noticed brake fluid at the lower bell housing and the clutch would stick to the floor at times and diminished fluid level at the m/c, so I'm assuming that it's the slave. Maybe an expensive assumption of $1900.
After reading this tread, is there actually an inspection plate whereby I could have looked at the slave or bleeder screw without removing the driveline? If so can someone tell me where and how difficult is it to get at?
After reading this tread, is there actually an inspection plate whereby I could have looked at the slave or bleeder screw without removing the driveline? If so can someone tell me where and how difficult is it to get at?
Jack