18 minute hazard switch replacement
#21
Le Mans Master
On the OEM one I was able to get my fingers back there after reaching up through the dash and depress them to get it out. The one in the video was an aftermarket one that just kind of... sat there, so I was able to push that one out. Current OEM one also has those tabs which depress to get it off
This is the that came out in the video:
As you can see there are no tabs. I was going to replace it anyway, because the few times I had to use the hazard switch, when I pushed the button a lot of times it would fall back into the dash.
I also realize now that I didn't address that in the video. I did the instructions based on the crappy one that was in there, and not the OEM unit. However like I said, there's enough room to get your hands in there and depress both tabs down to get it out.
This is the that came out in the video:
As you can see there are no tabs. I was going to replace it anyway, because the few times I had to use the hazard switch, when I pushed the button a lot of times it would fall back into the dash.
I also realize now that I didn't address that in the video. I did the instructions based on the crappy one that was in there, and not the OEM unit. However like I said, there's enough room to get your hands in there and depress both tabs down to get it out.
From what I can see from the bottom of the switch there's a small opening in the housing to push on the switch itself to get it to release, is there an easy way to do this for the top one?
Oh ya, I'm into this for 1 1/2 HOURS so far.
Last edited by FFIN90; 11-27-2012 at 05:26 PM.
#22
I am currently at this stage now and cant for the life of me figure out how to push those tiny tabs in to get the switch out, any help would be greatly appreciated.
From what I can see from the bottom of the switch there's a small opening in the housing to push on the switch itself to get it to release, is there an easy way to do this for the top one?
Oh ya, I'm into this for 1 1/2 HOURS so far.
From what I can see from the bottom of the switch there's a small opening in the housing to push on the switch itself to get it to release, is there an easy way to do this for the top one?
Oh ya, I'm into this for 1 1/2 HOURS so far.
"Did it your way, was a breeze, only hard part is getting the old switch out, wedged a small screw driver in the top, used my thumb to push the bottom and pushed on the front with another screw driver, finally released it took a little patience and time, overall about 30 min"
I'd give that a try.
I've got gangly fingers so with my OEM one I was able to get them in there to squeeze the tabs down. I'd try a small screw driver, and try working it from the front.
#23
Le Mans Master
Oh wow... that's a long time hahahahah. DEnglish29 had luck with a screw driver:
"Did it your way, was a breeze, only hard part is getting the old switch out, wedged a small screw driver in the top, used my thumb to push the bottom and pushed on the front with another screw driver, finally released it took a little patience and time, overall about 30 min"
I'd give that a try.
I've got gangly fingers so with my OEM one I was able to get them in there to squeeze the tabs down. I'd try a small screw driver, and try working it from the front.
"Did it your way, was a breeze, only hard part is getting the old switch out, wedged a small screw driver in the top, used my thumb to push the bottom and pushed on the front with another screw driver, finally released it took a little patience and time, overall about 30 min"
I'd give that a try.
I've got gangly fingers so with my OEM one I was able to get them in there to squeeze the tabs down. I'd try a small screw driver, and try working it from the front.
#25
Le Mans Master
I have changed my mind. After reading some other posts about this problem and having suggestions of the hazrad switch and the stop lamp switch and looking at the shop manuals and looking at the schematics of where all the feeds come and go I'm going to take it to a local shop and have it taken care of. I don't want to get into the replace this part/that part and still not fix the problem.
#26
On the OEM one I was able to get my fingers back there after reaching up through the dash and depress them to get it out. The one in the video was an aftermarket one that just kind of... sat there, so I was able to push that one out. Current OEM one also has those tabs which depress to get it off
This is the that came out in the video:
As you can see there are no tabs. I was going to replace it anyway, because the few times I had to use the hazard switch, when I pushed the button a lot of times it would fall back into the
I also realize now that I didn't address that in the video. I did the instructions based on the crappy one that was in there, and not the OEM unit. However like I said, there's enough room to get your hands in there and depress both tabs down to get it out.
This is the that came out in the video:
As you can see there are no tabs. I was going to replace it anyway, because the few times I had to use the hazard switch, when I pushed the button a lot of times it would fall back into the
I also realize now that I didn't address that in the video. I did the instructions based on the crappy one that was in there, and not the OEM unit. However like I said, there's enough room to get your hands in there and depress both tabs down to get it out.
I had to pull the center console and radio. Took about 90 minutes total. Saved enough to buy more parts! Good luck.
The following users liked this post:
JimHarris4 (05-31-2021)
#27
Hey guys, thought this might help some people.
I had to replace my hazard safety switch in my C5 Z06, since I had no brake lights. I've read a few write ups and they all say it takes over an hour to do. I did it in 18 minutes. After doing it myself I'm absolutely shocked at the amount of time it takes people to do this and I think my way is a lot easier. With the method below, the center console bezel does not need to be removed, and the head unit doesn't need to come out either.
The steps with no video or pictures are easy and I felt they did not require visual instruction. If you feel otherwise let me know and I'll get it done.
Step 1: Pop off your trunk release switch on the left side of the steering wheel with a flat head, and your air temperature sensor cover on the right side, next to your ignition, with a flat head as well. This exposes two torx screws. Undo those screws and set them aside.
Step 2: Underneath the knee bolster there are two more torx screws of the same size. Undo those and set them aside.
Step 3: Gently pull from the bottom of the knee bolster until it pops. Be careful because there is a wire that is attached to the temperature sensor.
Step 4: I was able to wiggle mine out without having to remove the center console bezel, and without breaking anything. I just gently pried up on the bezel around the ignition and it slid right out. Once you've done this, disconnect the air temperature sensor cable, from the sensor itself.
Step 5: Pop off the hazard button. I used my car keys to do this. I stuck them in, turned a bit, and it popped right out.
Step 6:
Step 7: Verify that you have turn signals, hazards, brake lights and tail lights before you put everything back together.
Step 8:
Step 9: Use a pair of long and skinny needle nose pliers to pull the switch forward. Looking at the face of the switch once it's in, there is an empty triangle that you can use to grab on to with the pliers. Once you've secured it in it's place, you can push the button back on.
Step 10: Reattach temperature sensor to the cables you unplugged from it, and slip the knee bolster back into place the same way you took it out.
Step 11: Put the torx screws back in, reattach the temperature sensor cover, and plug the trunk release back in and you're good to go!
Total time took 18 minutes, not including the water and cigarette break.
I had to replace my hazard safety switch in my C5 Z06, since I had no brake lights. I've read a few write ups and they all say it takes over an hour to do. I did it in 18 minutes. After doing it myself I'm absolutely shocked at the amount of time it takes people to do this and I think my way is a lot easier. With the method below, the center console bezel does not need to be removed, and the head unit doesn't need to come out either.
The steps with no video or pictures are easy and I felt they did not require visual instruction. If you feel otherwise let me know and I'll get it done.
Step 1: Pop off your trunk release switch on the left side of the steering wheel with a flat head, and your air temperature sensor cover on the right side, next to your ignition, with a flat head as well. This exposes two torx screws. Undo those screws and set them aside.
Step 2: Underneath the knee bolster there are two more torx screws of the same size. Undo those and set them aside.
Step 3: Gently pull from the bottom of the knee bolster until it pops. Be careful because there is a wire that is attached to the temperature sensor.
Step 4: I was able to wiggle mine out without having to remove the center console bezel, and without breaking anything. I just gently pried up on the bezel around the ignition and it slid right out. Once you've done this, disconnect the air temperature sensor cable, from the sensor itself.
Step 5: Pop off the hazard button. I used my car keys to do this. I stuck them in, turned a bit, and it popped right out.
Step 6:
Step 7: Verify that you have turn signals, hazards, brake lights and tail lights before you put everything back together.
Step 8:
Step 9: Use a pair of long and skinny needle nose pliers to pull the switch forward. Looking at the face of the switch once it's in, there is an empty triangle that you can use to grab on to with the pliers. Once you've secured it in it's place, you can push the button back on.
Step 10: Reattach temperature sensor to the cables you unplugged from it, and slip the knee bolster back into place the same way you took it out.
Step 11: Put the torx screws back in, reattach the temperature sensor cover, and plug the trunk release back in and you're good to go!
Total time took 18 minutes, not including the water and cigarette break.
#29
Hello all!! I have read many posts and not sure that i know what my issue is so I'm asking for help. my 2003 c5 anniversary edition has no brake lights and the flashers don't work. All fuses are fine, all ground connections look brand new, and there are no codes in the DIC. I'm guessing the problem is the flasher switch. Any comments from the corvette peanut gallery?
tom
tom
#31
Hello all!! I have read many posts and not sure that i know what my issue is so I'm asking for help. my 2003 c5 anniversary edition has no brake lights and the flashers don't work. All fuses are fine, all ground connections look brand new, and there are no codes in the DIC. I'm guessing the problem is the flasher switch. Any comments from the corvette peanut gallery?
tom
tom
#33
Sounds to me like the hazard switch! It's only $20 and a bit of your time if it's not!
I'm guessing you're on the OEM switch, so I'd pay attention to some of the other posts that have been in this thread regarding the clips at the top. Might take you a little longer than 18 minutes. I went through to see how long it would take me with a good quality switch that actually secured in place, and it took me 22 minutes. I was able to get a small pocket knife to get the top clip to pop out. Good luck!
I'm guessing you're on the OEM switch, so I'd pay attention to some of the other posts that have been in this thread regarding the clips at the top. Might take you a little longer than 18 minutes. I went through to see how long it would take me with a good quality switch that actually secured in place, and it took me 22 minutes. I was able to get a small pocket knife to get the top clip to pop out. Good luck!
#34
Worked for me
Cant thank you enough for this tip. I just completed this job using your method that would've taken me a lot longer and been a lot bigger pain in the butt! The hardest part was getting the old switch to let go, but I wedged a small screwdriver up on top and worked against it. Went with an OEM replacement. Hope it fixes my intermittent brake light issues.
Long live the Corvette Forum!
Long live the Corvette Forum!
#35
Cant thank you enough for this tip. I just completed this job using your method that would've taken me a lot longer and been a lot bigger pain in the butt! The hardest part was getting the old switch to let go, but I wedged a small screwdriver up on top and worked against it. Went with an OEM replacement. Hope it fixes my intermittent brake light issues.
Long live the Corvette Forum!
Long live the Corvette Forum!
Out of curiosity how long did it take you total? It seems I was able to complete mine a lot faster than most, because of the crappy switch I had in there coming out easily. A few people have messaged me that it took them forever to get their old switch out. Either way hope it fixes your issue!
#36
Glad I was able to help! I didn't have any issue getting mine out because it was a pretty loose fit to begin with. Guessing that's where the extra time took for you with the one you had in there. Glad it was a breeze and you didn't have to take a few hours taking the dash apart!
I now have brake lights besides just the center brake light....
#37
Pro
Replace it with the hyper flash harness
You are better off just installing the Hyperflash harness and be done with it. It took me all of 10 minutes and no hassles plus the added benefit of being ready for LED lights with no issues. The harness has it's own flasher and bypasses your dash mounted flasher unit.
http://www.corvette-enhancements.com/c5_flasher_fix.php
http://www.corvette-enhancements.com/c5_flasher_fix.php