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So the hazard light switch will inhibit the turn signal function?
I have recently discovered "no turn signal" as you described. IDK why, but it occurred to me I while I was driving to engage the hazards for a few flashes then attempt to use the turn signal again.
Doing that allowed the turn signals to again function normally. Does this mean the hazard light switch is failing?
I haven't been able to determine the conditions which trip this fault in the turn signal, (cold temps/warm temps ... headlights on/off) but running the hazards a few flashes seems to clear it.
Would probably warrant a question mark over a cruiser to be sure.
You need a new hazard switch. Both my Corvette and Monte Carlo are doing this currently. I think it happens on all GM cars of this era with that style switch.
You need a new hazard switch. Both my Corvette and Monte Carlo are doing this currently. I think it happens on all GM cars of this era with that style switch.
thanks!
I'll order a replacement and use this tutorial. Now I'll look smart again!
[QUOTE=sunvet;1598083073]I got my replacement hazard switch from O'Reilly Auto Parts. (Yeah, made in China.) I fussed with installing it and couldn't get it to go in. I compared it to the one that came out. The new one had thin black plastic covers on each side. I took those off and it then went in. I assume those black covers were required for another vehicle.
All 4 brake lights were out but center brake light, turn signals & 4 ways worked fine.
I bought Dorman 924-609 at Autozone as AC Delco part has been discontinued and hard to find.
Saturday, everything was on target to finish in 18 minutes until it came to getting new switch to snap in place. I struggled to find a way to push or pull the new switch in place and finally gave up.
New switch fixed brake light problem and hung from wires for two days.
Today I went back an re-read this thread and noticed the above post. Pried thin back plastic strip off side of switch and it snapped in place without much effort pushing from inside.
looks like i'll be doing this hazard replacement soon. my turn signals have been intermittent over the last couple weeks and tonight they barely turned on at all. poking the hazard switch helps but it also does not turn on normally.
will be using this thread's 18 minute technique for sure
Hey guys - just a heads up as far as the aftermarket ***** hazard switches we appear to be stuck with..
I am chasing a gremlin under the dash that has taken to flashing the lights on my HVAC panel when I use the turn signals... While chasing and checking connections for shorts and rubs, my Dorman hazard flasher popped out of place again. I decided to look for another switch that fit better. Whilst searching, the switch for a 2004 Impala kept showing up (10359031). The switch body and plug looked the same, just a different button. I ordered a Tridon/Novita HS02 for the impala because I didn't want to take the chance of blowing an OEM. Low and behold, it works perfectly and the HS02 actually fits in the slot perfectly and holds in place much better than the Dorman I had in there.
The OEM 10359031 can be pricey, but with changing the button only, it seems to be the same switch.
I had to leave the black plastic clips on the Dorman switch to try to keep it in place. The Tridon / Novita snapped into place without the clips and stays in place. The switch is not my problem, so I guess I have a spare for now, but will order the OEM Impala switch if the one I have dies.
I got my replacement hazard switch from O'Reilly Auto Parts. (Yeah, made in China.) I fussed with installing it and couldn't get it to go in. I compared it to the one that came out. The new one had thin black plastic covers on each side. I took those off and it then went in. I assume those black covers were required for another vehicle.
All 4 brake lights were out but center brake light, turn signals & 4 ways worked fine.
I bought Dorman 924-609 at Autozone as AC Delco part has been discontinued and hard to find.
Saturday, everything was on target to finish in 18 minutes until it came to getting new switch to snap in place. I struggled to find a way to push or pull the new switch in place and finally gave up.
New switch fixed brake light problem and hung from wires for two days.
Today I went back an re-read this thread and noticed the above post. Pried thin back plastic strip off side of switch and it snapped in place without much effort pushing from inside.
Fought with it way too long with the tabs on before finding this. Thanks for this post. Went right in after removing black plastic tabs.
I had to replace my hazard safety switch in my C5 Z06, since I had no brake lights. I've read a few write ups and they all say it takes over an hour to do. I did it in 18 minutes. After doing it myself I'm absolutely shocked at the amount of time it takes people to do this and I think my way is a lot easier. With the method below, the center console bezel does not need to be removed, and the head unit doesn't need to come out either.
The steps with no video or pictures are easy and I felt they did not require visual instruction. If you feel otherwise let me know and I'll get it done.
Step 1: Pop off your trunk release switch on the left side of the steering wheel with a flat head, and your air temperature sensor cover on the right side, next to your ignition, with a flat head as well. This exposes two torx screws. Undo those screws and set them aside.
Step 2: Underneath the knee bolster there are two more torx screws of the same size. Undo those and set them aside.
Step 3: Gently pull on the bottom of the knee bolster until it pops. You need to be firm, but don't man-handle it. Be careful because there is a wire that is attached to the temperature sensor that's attached to this as well.
Step 4: I was able to gently wiggle the bolster out out without having to remove the center console bezel, and without breaking anything. I gently pried up on the bezel around the ignition and it slid right out. Once you've done this, disconnect the air temperature sensor cable, from the sensor itself.
Step 5: Pop off the hazard button. I just used my car keys to do this. I stuck them in between the button and the bezel, turned them a bit, pulled back, and it popped right off.
Step 5.5: A few people have replied to let me know that they had issues getting the hazard switch to unclip. Mine was a crappy OEM one and it just pushed right out. The general consensus to get it out is to take a small to medium sized screwdriver and give a good knock on the handle to pop it out. Alternatively if it's thin enough, you wiggle it in and use that to depress the clips. This should only add another minute or two to the total time, if any at all. (Big thanks to those who updated me with this extra step they had to take, so I can pass it on to you guys!)
Step 6:
Step 7: Shouldn't really need to be stated, but hook up the new switch and verify that you have turn signals, hazards, brake lights and tail lights before you put everything back together.
Step 8:
Step 9: Use a pair of long and skinny needle nose pliers to pull the switch forward. Looking at the face of the switch once it's in, there is an empty triangle that you can use to grab on to with the pliers. Once you've secured it in it's place, you can push the button back on.
Step 10: Reattach temperature sensor to the cables you unplugged from it, and slip the knee bolster back into place the same way you took it out, by pulling back a bit on the ignition bezel.
Step 11: Put the torx screws back in, reattach the temperature sensor cover, and plug the trunk release back in and you're good to go!
Total time took 18 minutes, not including the water and cigarette break.
I think it happens on all GM cars of this era with that style switch.
