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Like a number of my fellow posters here, I have installed a Hurst shifter in my C-5. Again, like a number of you, I was initally less than impresed with the effort required to shift through the neutral gate. I had some time over last weekend to play with the shifter, and found what I believe to be a good set up.
With regard to the springs, I installed both of the light springs. After placing them in the base, I found that three turns of preload worked well for both sets of springs, so at that point, I took the screws out, aplied a drop of blue Loctite, and reinstalled the springs. I was also less than impressed with the stock shift ****, in terms of the ergonomics, so I replaced it with a round, aluminum Kirban ****. I am much happier with the set-up now, and highly recommend this approach.
I'm glad you like it too. I installed mine about 2 weeks ago and love it. I also installed the lighter springs because I thought the others were a little stiff for my taste. Either the shifter is loosening up a bit or I am getting used to it, but I think the shifting effort has gotten lighter over the last week or so. I might have to play with the springs again...:cheers:
I replaced my **** with the phantom carbon fiber/leather **** and it looks awsome. I would recommend to anyone who installs a short shifter to get rid of your stock ****.
Does anyone know what the small PIN was for on the Stock shifter? :confused:
Adjustment of shift linkage.
Should I keep the pin, so if I ever put the stock shifter back on will it be needed. Can you give me a better explanation for the pin. How does it work,.....?
I also found the Hurst to be a little too stiff to start with, but decided to wait it out, and it is definitely getting smoother and easier to shift, even with the standard springs. I jumped into a Z06 the other day, and was appalled with the stock shifter sloppiness :eek:
I was told that it is an alignment pin for the stock shifter, keeps the shifter plate square when it was installed at the factory. It is not needed for any of the aftermarket shifters. Keep it with your old shifter and reinstall it if you should ever go back...
Gentlemen, that is NOT the intended use of the pin. The pin is used to set the neutral gate alignment between the shifter and the shift rod. Think of it as the same tool that is used on the old style Hust shifters to set "neutral" when you're installing the shift rods. (Muncie and B-W trannies)
In my original post, I forgot to mention that when I was messing around with my shifter last weekend, I used this set-up pin to adjust the neutral gate, which I'm sure also has helped make my shifter's action smoother.
The procedure is to place the shifter in neutral, and see if the pin will easily slip through the black collar, and into the alignment hole in the shift control rod. This is located just in front of the shifter. If it does, you're OK.
If not, you have to loosen the two Torx headed bolts that hold the shifter casting to the torque tube, as well as the Torx headed bolt in the clamp on the shift rod. Wiggle the pin in place, to set the neutral gate, and then torque all three bolts to 22 ft/lbs. Your adjustment is then complete. Save the pin for future reference.
Gentlemen, that is NOT the intended use of the pin. The pin is used to set the neutral gate alignment between the shifter and the shift rod. Think of it as the same tool that is used on the old style Hust shifters to set "neutral" when you're installing the shift rods. (Muncie and B-W trannies)
In my original post, I forgot to mention that when I was messing around with my shifter last weekend, I used this set-up pin to adjust the neutral gate, which I'm sure also has helped make my shifter's action smoother.
The procedure is to place the shifter in neutral, and see if the pin will easily slip through the black collar, and into the alignment hole in the shift control rod. This is located just in front of the shifter. If it does, you're OK.
If not, you have to loosen the two Torx headed bolts that hold the shifter casting to the torque tube, as well as the Torx headed bolt in the clamp on the shift rod. Wiggle the pin in place, to set the neutral gate, and then torque all three bolts to 22 ft/lbs. Your adjustment is then complete. Save the pin for future reference.
Thanks for the info, I may have to go back in there again because "first and second" seem to be binding a bit. Wasn't as smooth as I thought it would be. I did notice the pin would slip down a hole when the shifter was in neutral. Great info, THANKS....... :cheers:
I installed the Hurst about two weeks ago and was a little disappointed in the over all shift effort with both soft springs installed. I called Hurst about the springs as I felt the softer springs were still a little too stiff. I asked if I could use only one and the Brand Manager said it was OK to use one spring but make sure you loctite the adjustment screws. Changed to the outside soft only and turned the adjusters in about 3 full turns. It still requires more effort than I thought on down shifts. I am on the fence about keeping the shifter.