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(Not so typical) Window tip in question

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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 09:37 PM
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Default (Not so typical) Window tip in question

I understand the process of adjusting the window tip in, but I don't understand the part the front adjustment (underneath the door) plays in it. The procedure says after adjusting the tip in at the rear underneath the reflector, loosen the front bolt, put the window down, then tighten it. When this front bolt is loose, it moves from side to side easily. What part does the front adjustment play? I'm thinking that if I were to push the bolt outward (toward the outer door panel) and tighten it, the window would have the most extreme tip in. If I pull that bolt forward (toward the car), the window would angle a bit pushing the rear of the window outward and pulling the front of it in, reducing the "tip in" angle.

My question is, where should I tighten the front bolt (inward or outward) to maintain the maximum tip in angle? Thanks!
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 10:23 AM
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I'm interested in this as well. I have a pretty bad wind noise issue on my passenger side window that the tip-in procedure didn't resolve.
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 11:28 AM
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The front adjustment is to remove the stress on the window after tip-in adjustment. This ensures that there is no binding.
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Renxwar
I'm interested in this as well. I have a pretty bad wind noise issue on my passenger side window that the tip-in procedure didn't resolve.
I'm certainly not an expert on this which is why I posted the thread, but it sound like you might need to dive deeper into it. I spent a good 8 hrs over two days adjusting my windows. After taking the door panels off (which was EASY), I found that the window can be adjusted forward and backward, tip in/out, and height, and there is also a fine tuning height adjustment screw if you can't get the window high enough. First off, check to see where the window is when the door is closed. There is a metal tab on the top rear corner of the top (push in the weather stripping at the back of the top and you can feel it), and with the door closed, the back of the window should be inboard of that. Front to back alignment is pretty straightforward... With the black "sound loc" sound proofing removed, you can see a black alignment mark on the bottom of the window. This is a baseline as to where the window should sit front to back. You can adjust this by loosening the two nuts that clamp the window to the track (one is behind the soundloc barrier and the other is underneath the door speaker). Access this with the window lowered about halfway. It appears that the windows should be adjusted a tiny bit higher in the back then it is in front, so it leans SLIGHTLY forward. Also, I found that the top itself can be adjusted to lock down lower by loosening the two screws on the front locking tab and tapping the bracket down slightly. I had a bit of a wind leak because of this. All in all, you can put alot of time into doing this... it will drive you crazy, but the results are worth it. Patience and a helper to hold the window when adjusting height make it go alot quicker. Unfortunately, I had neither... . Here's a great video that explains how to remove the door panel, and also describes the adjustments a bit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGXSDzazWx0

Aside from all of that, you could have issues with the weatherstripping. Over time, it does get a bit hard and just doesn't seal like it should. I replaced the back halo (which was pretty easy), and now I think I'm going to replace the targa weatherstripping since it is pretty hard and also has a small rip in it.

Hope this helps!
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 02:43 PM
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Tilt the window in and jamb it too hard against the weatherstrip and it's just hard on the weatherstripping, regulator and outer door weatherstrip and ends up making the window loose and floppy when the door is open.

The window should hit the weatherstrip just below the lip or step and then as the door closes the last bit the window should push up so the edge of the window pushes into that lip.

I adjusted my drivers window with way less tip in and up higher and it seals now. The 2 fine adjustment screws can be reaches through the bottom of the door so I didn't even pull the door panel off. Too bad the PO had it so out of whack because the window is now pretty loose and floppy with the door open. I need to get into the door some day and look at the door weatherstripping (it actually locates the top of the glass) and the regulator and figure out where the play is.
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