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No codes no start, what to do first?

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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 08:05 PM
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Default No codes no start, what to do first? Update it's fixed

Well quick story. I was cruising down the freeway doing 65 with the cruise on and the car just bucked popped and shut down. Tried to restart it and no go. Had it towed to the house. It cranks fine but no fire. Weird thing is I have no codes whatsoever. Just some from the tire sensors, radio, hvac and door control module, abs 1214 common cose. Those have been there. I did notice earlier in the day the car had a miss and chalked it up to bad gas or something still no codes. Where do i start? I'm thinking checking Bill C's electrical and then checking spaerk and fuel.

On a side note a few weeks ago my car almost did the same thing BUT I did get it home It ran horribly but still would but barely idle, like 400rpm idle wouldn't rev and just sputtered. I unplugged the maf and it ran fine in open loop so I went to a buddies and he verified in hptuners the maf was bad . I found it weird that the mas just failed with 88k miles on it but I chalked it up to bad luck. I borrowed one from a friend with a 04 z and she ran fine in closed and open so I got another one from ebay off a silverado(same p/n so I know they are the same lots of ls1 mafs are the same) I installed the newand I was back in buisness I drove the car a few times since then and it felt fine with new maf. I thought maybe the new maf went bad but I unplugged it and still no fire. My car has had every known issue so far. busted starter from block, leaky butt, rocking seat, window regulator, headlight issues, headligh switch, abs module. I think it may be electrical but not sure? Just weird I have no codes. I don't think I need to redo the tune for the new maf? Wouldn't it done this as soon as I put the new used one in? When I tried starting again low oil light came on first time. When i pulled the stick out it was barely showing on thw dipstick I had to add about 1.5 quarts before the "middle line" Tell me I had enough oil I don't think running 1.5 low would blow or seize anything? I didn't here anything mechanical just a miss and shut down. Ran fine all day


FRESH BATTERY
01 coupe
full intake and exhaust
tune(had tune for over a year now) by a reputable shop(9sec lsx car)
new plugs and wires before used maf
91 octane
no codes before this happened, no current codes now

edit-got me a code see below
update- Update it's fixed

Last edited by Chicago1; Oct 3, 2012 at 12:48 PM.
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 01:10 AM
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Update got a code. It is p0336 which is the crank shaft position sensor which makes sense. I got it to idle for 30 secs or so before it died. So ill order a new one. Ill have to search how to change it. I'm going to make sure no fried wires. I believe its by the starter close to the headers. Posting from my phone so ill check in tommorow
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 02:58 PM
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Yep,, thats where it at.

Before you replace it, check the wires and connector. It is behind the starter and YES,, you will have to remove the starter.

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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 03:15 PM
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Thanks Bill, is it odd that my maf went out now my crank sensor went out? I have headers so i will look for frayed wires but is it possible I am getting some electrical surges? Just weird one goes out and now this. I did see some oil on the ground so it may be coming from that area. Maybe just bad luck car only has 88k
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 05:27 PM
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Well good and bad news I did finally get a code p0336. I pulled the exhaust and starter and seen that my wiring harness for the cps was fried same with the low oil light and the two grounds that go above the starter, all fried. I had ordered a new gm/ac delco cps. I chalked it up the the stainless works header putting out some heat because the harness was hard as a rock and the wires where melted together. Some had no insulation left just bare wire fried to eachother. I replaced the sensor fixed all the harness and tried to fire her up. Nothing still cranks but doesn't fire. I threw a new code p0335. I stuck my finger in the cps hole to feel if the reluctor wheel was loose but I don't feel anything moving. i triple checked my wiring to insure resistance and no issues with my wiring. ohmed out fine. Please please tell me I just need a relearn procedure and my reluctor wheel isn't stuck or took a crap. I hear of peopel changing these cps without a relearn. i have a guy coming with a tech 2. is it just possible that the fried wiring and new cps is throwing the firing off. I'm really really hoping it's just a relearn but i figured it would of fired up. What do you guys think??
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
So if I understand correctly, it is not possible, that there is a problem with the wiring repair? You checked the resistance of each wire (with the PCM connector off) to the crank sensor connector, and you do not have continuity between any of the three wires?
I did not check from the pcm. I verified where I had to cut/splice into the harness itself. I had about 4 inches left before I hit the firwall so from the firewall to the cps sensor itself is where I checked and had to fix. I do have continuity. The blue/white read .06 and the yellow got .06-.07 and the green I just checked voltage on the output of the cps connctor and got a solid 11.8v. All 3 alarmed for an ohm reading on the DMM so yes my wiring is dead solid. I talked to a tech and he said it needs a relearn on the tech 2. I just have seen post where people change them out without it. He's coming by tommorow never met the guy but respected on our boards and a really cool dude. Gonna have to treat him to a great lunch. I just have this thing in the back of my head saying "relcutor wheel"
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 06:08 PM
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I would also ask if fuses were checked? Bare wires touching each other and possible grounds could take fuses out. I didn't see anything saying you checked them so just throwing another possible out there.
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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The cps gets it's signal from the pcm no fuses/relays or anything but I did not check if the main fuse or anything else did I will check that. Just weird that I need a relearn and others can swap with no issue. I damn tore my finger messing with the reluctor wheel to see if it has any play in it. If the relearn doesn't work I guess pan needs to come out for an actual inspect of the crank.. and if it does then time for a new motor...
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 06:23 PM
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I'll check from the pcm then. I'm going to ask a dumb question. Will I have enough lead from the fender pcm area to the harness area of the cps with my DMM. I guess I could tie a wire around it so my leads are "extended". I am getting 12volts out of l-gn wire when the key is in the acc position. I'll verify the other tonight. I do appreciate your guys help

Last edited by Chicago1; Oct 1, 2012 at 06:26 PM.
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 12:57 AM
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Yeah I see what your saying I thought I was missing something else. I can get some longer ones if need be. Won't be till this weekend. I do have someone coming over mid week with a tech 2 to check/teach the cps. I went to pretty solid its needs a reteach to I m thinking 50/50 now after what you mentioned and some other threads I read. We will see what happens this week.
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
......Hopefully G106 above the starter is fully repaired, because if the small terminal is even questionable, it will never fire.
Good luck
Originally Posted by Chicago1
Yeah I see what your saying I thought I was missing something else. I can get some longer ones if need be. Won't be till this weekend. I do have someone coming over mid week with a tech 2 to check/teach the cps. I went to pretty solid its needs a reteach to I m thinking 50/50 now after what you mentioned and some other threads I read. We will see what happens this week.
Did you ever check this as well as Lucky said? It's kinda important.
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 10:24 PM
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Yes I did and I have a update its a two part so I don't look like a complete idiot...she is alive!!!!

So I checked my ground rebuild and it was solid. I checked my low oil pressure rebuild and it was solid. My buddy came with his tech 2 and we talked last night and said the cps reteach was probably not going to work as stated before above. I also mentioned what you guys said about the cps signal at the ecu and he said that can be checked with the tech 2. So he checked it and it was good. We checked spark and gtg. He said check fuel but I don't have a gauge. So he put some rags under the valve from the fuel rail and guess what drip drip barely anything. He said maybe the pump went out. He started the pump with the tech 2 and it was good. We look at the gas gauge and it was
below the red. Hmmm before it got towed it was low but didn't think that low. Well it was. So I take my gas can and I get some gas tonight and threw about 2 gallons in it. She fires up after a few cranks dohhhhhhh!!! She would of been fine after the rewire which she originally died for if I had gas in her but I was so focused on the code it threw and the burn wires i forgot to add some. I guess it was already so low that after cranking her and stumbling it sucked the rest. Thanks for the help gents and I learned a lot about the car. Problem solved now to put the exhaust on and take her out..
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 10:40 PM
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Good read! Reminds me of Carl from Slingblade, "It's outa gas" LOL
Glad you got it going...
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 10:49 PM
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Yeah I was so proud that I found and fixed the issues. I spent hours on those harness and was so happy right before I started it. If I had gas in it I would of felt like a million bucks now I'm like really dummy you can unbloth headers trace wires cut splice and fix the issue but can't put gas to complete the job. Oh well. I was gonna come in with a super cool story how I tracked it down like a needle in a haystack but figured this was more honest and funny. Lol
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Chicago1
Yeah I was so proud that I found and fixed the issues. I spent hours on those harness and was so happy right before I started it. If I had gas in it I would of felt like a million bucks now I'm like really dummy you can unbloth headers trace wires cut splice and fix the issue but can't put gas to complete the job. Oh well. I was gonna come in with a super cool story how I tracked it down like a needle in a haystack but figured this was more honest and funny. Lol
Hey, you wouldn't be the first guy to do something like that. I've made my share of dumb things too.

Glad you got your wiring repaired and you're back on the road.
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 09:54 AM
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I say if you can't laugh at yourself then you have some real problems.This was a very interesting read. Threads like these are very instructional that help others like myself solve problems without the pain.Glad to hear you are back on the road.
Fred
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 01:05 PM
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I updated the original title for anyone searching for a similar problem in the future. Now to move on to the famous abs 1214 code.
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