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I would suggest a new gasket kit. Autozone sells one for $20. It has the 8 runner seals and new foam pads for underneath.
Grind the bottom completely flat and keep the coolant crossover pipe. This way worked perfectly fine for me and is the cheapest route.
Yup, new gaskets / pads, will get a new one for the t.body as well. Was only going to clean off the ribs that hit the pipes. Saw a video of the chisel method but will probably try score / snap then file or belt sand.
Also saw a thread that recommended sealing the knock sensor seals with gasket sealer.
Was going to do the PCV update but think I'll stay with my air compressor filter / catch can.
Originally Posted by NukeC5
I would suggest a new gasket kit. Autozone sells one for $20. It has the 8 runner seals and new foam pads for underneath.
Grind the bottom completely flat and keep the coolant crossover pipe. This way worked perfectly fine for me and is the cheapest route.
Where would the EGR hole be located? I'll have the current owner take a photo.
Shoe polish, got it!
Thanks
Your looking for a "50 cent piece"ish size hole on the top of the throttle inlet tube, just behind where the throttle connects.
Ask the seller what it came off of. It should not have one if it is an LS6 intake. Only F-body's had EGR and that was when they had LS1 intakes. They lost EGR after they switched to LS6 style intake. So the only LS6 intakes that have EGR have been modified that way. So look for it, but it will most likely not be there. And if it has it, make darn sure it has a flat bottom and really is an LS6 intake.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Rx7Rob
Where would the EGR hole be located?
If it's there, you'll see it easy enough. Right behind where the TB mounts. If it really is from an '02 F-Body, it shouldn't have one, at least not from the factory.
If you use the white shoe polish, you may have to act quickly as it tends to dry pretty fast. That's why I also mentioned paint; gives you more working time and if you use a water based latex it's an easier clean-up than oil based. Soap and water. Lots of people have some spare interior-trim paint around the house.
I just did this swap for a friend. Heres what we did. The crossover pipe will fit under the manifold. I used a high speed grinder to buzz off the ribs where the cross over pipe runs under the intake. We changed heads so I took off the complete cross over pipe, layed it on the bottom of the intake and marked what needed to be removed.
We also used a mallet and tapped the cross over pipe down so it lays below the valve valley cover bolts. We had absoluty ZERO fitment issues using the crossover pipe.
YES, install new intake O rings
YES, Seal up the Knock sensor plugs.
Consider shanging your OIL PRESSURE SENSOR. They go bad a LOT!
I went to Autozone and purchased a nylon line repair kit and used it to lengthen the vacuum line on the back of the manifold. The line is so short that it becomes a PAIN to get back on properly and remain in place while your reinstalling the intake.
If it pops off, you will loose control of your HVAC Damper doors. and AIR System outlet valve.
Finally made it home and took a look at the manifold. Looks good other than being full of packing peanuts. I'll hit it with the air compressor and shop vac.
One more question, should the vacuum fittings at the firewall side of the manifold be loose or glued in solid? I can wiggle it a little.
I just got the old manifold off, removed the required ribs, and tapped down the crossover pipes. I marked the top of the pipes with grease pencil and am not getting any contact to the manifold.
BUT, I can rock the manifold (front to back) when its dropped on the motor (no gaskets and not bolted). If I put the original manifold back on, there isn't any rocking. The rocking point seems to be just fwd of the mid crossover pipe, so it not sitting on that.
I put a few bolts in and torqued to 20 in-lbs and it seems to be pulled down flush but its tough to tell. Is it possibly for a plastic manifold to be warped? Think its usable or should I trash it and try again?
Tomorrow I'm going to measure length of each bolt boss in the manifold to make sure they're all the same length.
I had some rocking with the FAST92 I recently installed. I did everything I could to flatten the valley parts. It torqued down fine with no leaks and increased power well on the dyno. It was a little scary torquing it down, but it turned out fine. I hope this helps a little...