I am researching the best damper to go with when I do a cam swap. I decided no on an Under-Drive one because I may want to supercharge the car in the future, and the A&A kit I am interested in uses the stock size.

I see many brand options as well as the stock AC Delco #12560115. I do know that the rubber has been pressing out of my stock one since 58k miles when I picked the car up. So an AC Delco unit does not seem like a good bet, nor do the re-manufactured brands like replacement parts, A1, Dorman, etc.

I ran into a PrecisionParts- Powerbond one #PB1117N that is a new from cast unit, and seems to be of better quality. But I am not sure.

I can get any basic balancer for around $70-80 bucks. The Powerbond for around $100, and then high end racing prepped ones for upwards of $200. What is a good balancer that will handle power, maintain the stock belt size, and not break the bank? The most important thing is to hopefully not having t replace the balancer again. (Big job.)

 

Mine is not supercharged, but I went with the Powerbond stock diameter. It seems much better than stock.

I put it on a couple years ago and there is no wobble at all. The factory one wobbled badly at 30k miles. (Chirped too)

If you are planning to supercharge, make sure you pin the balancer to the crank.

 

Ya I'll pin it for sure for just in case. But yes, the basic power bond seems good because it has a bonded elsatomer rather than a press fit like normal units. So it really can't press out. I think it is the best for a replacement damper.
But now more research has got me thinking about an actual 18.1 SFI spec damper that will handle high rpm and last a long time. I found the upgraded Powerbond unit for around 200 and is a full on race spec damper. I may go that route and key it to the crank and never worry about it again.

 

ATI is probably the best. $$$ though.
Also, they make the best pinning tool. It pins from the side and uses the keyway in the balancer instead of pinning from the end (if you had to remove, how do you get it aligned again).
I bought the SLP version of the PB balancer. SFI rated and looked to be a very nice part.

I have the pinning tool. Also works excellent for installing the front cover correctly too.

Ron

 

That was going to be my next question, how does one pin the crank? the crankshaft has to be cut for a piece to go in for the damper keyway to sit on right? Isn't that a little dangerous if you mess up?

 

It uses a dowel pin, so all you do is drill through the side of the crank snout, then ream, then tap the dowel in so it sticks up .110".
Drill reamer and guides are part of the kit.

Ron

 

Ok, not sure if Ill be doing this build myself or end up paying to have it done, its my only car now and a DD. But I hope something like that doesn't cost too much extra if i go that route.

 

Take the advice you gave me and get a Trick Flow.

 

Nuke, you still planning on the 224/228 cam?

I'm still undecided on the cam. I also don't want to do w/underdrive so decided to just put the stock balancer back on. Is there some reason not to use it??

 

if you are looking for the best ....

ATI .... period

The problem with other aftermarket dampeners is what it does to the timing chain. Do you're own research!

 

I am still thinking about that one in stock size, great quality brand and good looking. Did you get the trickflow underdrive? How do you like it?

I only chose not to to be able to use the A&A supercharger in the future. Cant use underdrive with it.

And yes, same cam most likely.

 

If you are planning to supercharge, make sure you pin the balancer to the crank.

 

ATI or stock. If you read any of the posts from Kurt Urban discussing the timing chain failures, there were only two they tested that removed the harmonics that were breaking timing chains, the stock GM and the ATI.

The ATI pinning kit, as previously stated, it a well designed kit that pins through the side of the crank and not from the front. This allows removal and re-installation without alignment issues.

The ATI is also fully rebuildable. Ship it back to ATI and they will rebuild it.

 

The problem is.. the ATI 7.5 inch stock damper is $450. I know they are the best, but it's a steel, not even aluminium, damper that really does nothing for the performance of the vehicle.
Being that I am going stock size rather than under-drive, I originality asked about this to spend what a stock style should cost; 70-100. But in light of higher power and occasionally drag racing I've decided on a unit that allows for pinning the crank and is 18.1 SFI rated.
This can be attained for 180-200 with a Summit, Trick-Flow, TCI, the race spec- Power-Bond, etc. I've heard nothing but problem stories with ASP, so that one will not even be considered.

Now, I did just read about the timing chain failures. It defiantly seems to be more of a timing chain issue, which I will be changing for a true double roller. I find it hard to believe that ATI and stock are the only "true dampers". It is not possible that the stock damper is superior to all the in-between versions until you hit the price of an ATI. They are all the same, and bonded elastomer units are pricier because they are safer and last longer. Then you have your bonded 18.1 SFI units that are tested to 12,000 RPM and remain sound. These are the same diameter, same materials, and some even re-manufacture the AC Delco units to make their dampers.

I am not at all intimidated to use a trick-flow or the like. Dampers are not complicated and they can be made to be far superior than the cheap stock mass-produced units. That study makes it seem like only stock or ATI will not fail. But stock would most defiantly fail just as much as any other unit. It uses the same materials and an un-bonded rubber elastomer. Not possible to be better than a quality aftermarket unit. Thats why the damn thing presses out all the time. It is not made for high revving or any sort of track abuse.

I defiantly took everything into account and appreciate all the input and help. A good timing chain, and a quality SFI approved damper will be sufficient for me.

 

I hear ya, Kurt Urban doesn't know what he's talking about

If they are all the same then just buy the cheapest.

 

Yeah....but his wife is hot.


....oh....wait a minute.....that's Keith Urban.

 

 

The best is probably the ATI. Under drive buys 5 hp, a good harmonic damper can save a motor. I have seen doubles break due to bad harmonic dampers. Not saying they all suck by any means, but your original post was seeking the best and that is why the ATI was recommended.

 

Unless I've missed something, your long range goal, is a supercharger. If that's the case, the only performance "gain" from a balancer to be realized, would be with an underdrive(N/A)..or overdrive(centri SC). If a centri SC is on the horizon, that immediately eliminates the underdrive.

You solicit for the "best", and the proceed to have a discussion why that is unacceptable. If a few hundred dollars is breaking the bank for performance builds, then you are emarking on the wrong journey. That being said, instead of asking for the "best", clearly state your budget limitations, and that will dictate exactly what your options are.

 

I am still amassing parts.