Okay, I see everyone's point. I should have been more clear. Here's the jest of it...

When I started this thread, I wanted to know the best "basic replacement" damper there is. I only knew that I did not want underdrive anymore after talking to A&A the other day and learning that stock size was needed. I was unaware of that up until then. I wanted to only spend what a normal replacement damper should cost, but the best possible one for that purpose. Hence the original question. (I still feel power-bond is the best basic replacement due to the bonded elastomer and low price.)

Then I had the epiphany that if i am to do a supercharger, a basic replacement damper wont do. I then sought a 18.1 SFI rated damper and and accepted the fact that I would have to spend a little more dough.

The best is clearly ATI. I have no doubts about that. But I am quite comfortable with a unit that cost a fraction of the price form very reputable brands like Trick-Flow, and TCI. These are 180 and 200 bucks respectively, with 18.1 SFI ratings and all the good stuff you look for.

So all in all I answered my own question, but really my question no longer stood after I decided not to do a basic replacement damper.

Sorry for the confusion, and thank you all for the input.

 

Same here. Taking from this thread, if you aspire to possibly supercharge in the future, consider sending back that under-drive unit and get the stock diameter one. I think I am going with the stock diameter Trick-Flow. Price is right at 180 and its got all the good ratings.

 

One final input on the ATI. As I mentioned, it is rebuildable. This can be done without removing the hub, the piece that is pressed onto the crank. The damper itself is separate and can be removed.

 

I'm thinking of installing an ATI damper on my car over this coming winter. If I do, I'd like to "do it right", and pin the crank. Just to be 100% sure, can the pinning fixture be placed on the engine with the front cover, and/or water pump in place on the engine?

TIA...

 

Just for the sake of knowing everything about this that I possibly can, I have been doing allot of research on the ATI dampers. I saw on another thread that people were arguing over whether or not to use the aluminum unit on a street car. The aluminum and steel dampers are the same price and the aluminum one is 3 lbs lighter.
The guy asking the question got talked into the steel unit because someone explained the expansion of aluminum in relation to the steel crankshaft. However the inner hub is steel on the LS1 ATI unit and the outer shell aluminum. Can anyone chime in on why the aluminum unit would be bad in any way on a street car?
I am more and more convinced on the ATI unit as I plan to supercharge and need a good keyed unit. I guess the others don't key as nicely and cannot be removed and replaced?
I am certain that I would be fine with a trick-flow or a like brand as far as longevity and engine protection. But its the crank key thing thats got me thinking... I may regret it if I don't and I end up supercharging...

But damn, $450 for the damper, and $120 for the keying kit... Makes me sick to my stomach.

 

I hear you, loud and clear. But as long time oval track legend Banjo Matthews once said, "Speed costs money, how fast you wanna go"??

 

If you are going super charged, check out the number of ribs to make sure you won't have to change the dampener later anyway. I thought I remembered seeing something about this. Maybe something about 8 rib vs 6?

Keep your eye out. I bought my ATI pining kit used, bought a pin from either ATI or somewhere else and sold the kit for about what I paid.
I do all my own work and have to say, drilling the pin hole was a little bit of a pain. I ended up buying a right angle air drill to get in there and didn't bother with the reamer as it was too long.

If it were me, I'd go with a cheaper dampener now, pin the crank and when it's time to supercharge, get a high quality ATI or other brand.

I have a BBK underdrive dampener and the quality seems very good.
I probably wouldn't go underdrive again though. It doesn't spin my alternator fast enough to charge while at idle with the A/C on. I'm going to check out the alternator one of these days, but if I just raise the idle by about 200rpm it goes back into charge.

 

ATI has good tech support, I would call them and discuss your plans. They can best advise you. As for the rib count, I believe you can get the higher count but the other pulleys must be changed as well.

 

Front cover definitely. I did mine when the cam was being changed so I can't comment on the water pump part of your question as mine was off when I drilled. The drill fixture is actually a loosely fit hub so is slides over the crank snout and into the seal. This keeps out the chips. It is a very well thought out kit and includes a titanium drill and a reamer along with the drill guides.

For the supercharged setup, you can pin both sides of the crank and use two pins. This does require a second keyway be cut into the hub at 180 degrees from the single keyway that comes with the ATI harmonic damper hub, but ATI can do this for a reasonable cost.

 

fyi, ATI sells these brand new sometimes on the famous auction site as blems for about half the price. I bought one and I cound not find anything wrong with it. It came with the same warranty too.

 

A blem damper? Sounds scary, but if they still sell them I guess its ok. I wonder what would be a deficiency for them to dub it a blem.. Just the finish or something i guess.

 

you have to read between the lines man ..... it's just a way for them to sell direct without going through a dealer. They are not going to sell something that is not to specs. The box will have "blem" written with a sharpie on it. If you spend enough time on that site you can find all kinds of things at a deal. But anyway, just thought I would throw this info out there.

 

They probably sell some this way because they know they're over-priced.

 

I'Ve been boosted for 3 years and run Summits C2501 balancer. It's sf18 spec'd and has held up for me. It runs about $170.00. Check it out. Give them a call and talk to a tech guy. Good luck on your choice. Rod