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Getting master and slave cylinder replaced, need advice please?!?
I have read several posts about this, but I am frantic, and in a hurry for knowledge as the dealership will begin work on my car in the morning.
The other day my clutch pedal lost pressure, fell to the floor and I was stranded. I was able to pull it up with my foot, and actually get the car in gear long enough to limp home, less than a mile.
Once I got the car home I noticed fluid leaking right next to the oil filter. I had the car towed to the dealer, and the mechanic told me the master and slave cylinders where both bad.
Is it possible to diagnose a slave cylinder without dropping the torque tube? This is crucial because they are quoting me $1800 to fix. That sum is going to hurt the pocket for a while, not to mention if I am going to spend that I would rather buy headers.
It depends on what's wrong with the slave cylinder.
That said, if you're going to drive an 11-year-old Chevy and can't fix those problems yourself, you should keep some cash on hand for any eventualities.
The $1800 does not include a clutch, I am leaning towards replacing it considering what all will be removed from the car at the time. To do that though the mechanic told me the labor would be another $300.
Does this seem high price wise?
I know when getting work done to always shop prices, but there are circumstances (friend of a friend) in this case where I thought I wouldn't have to.
If they're already taking out the slave cylinder, then an extra $300 in labor for the clutch sounds almost criminal. The hard part is already done at that point.
It is possible to replace the slave cylinder at home. Several folks have done this and have documented the process (do a search). You will find it very unpleasant, unless you at least have some sort of a transmission jack (they are available in a low-rise scissors configuration).
If the car has been treated gently, there should be a lot of life left in the clutch. Inspect the clutch when you get everything apart. Then weigh the cost of replacement, vs. the effort it will take to get back in there, should the clutch let go in another 20-30k miles. Personally, if I were in that deep, I would replace it.
If you plan on keeping the car, I would strongly recommend installing a remote bleeder. If you bleed the clutch hydraulics periodically, you should get much more than 20k miles out of the new parts.
This is a big job, but anyone with basic mechanical skills should be up to the task. The most important issue will be safety. Think about what you are doing and BE CAREFUL.
Once it is all back together, you will need to get the suspension aligned.
It is for sure the slave I had the same problem. The project can be done on jack stands it is more annoying but is possible. The $1800 dollar price is insane! The part from the dealership is only like $250. It will take you a long time to do this though. 8+ hours. Prep the cooler and find a friend to help and it will make it less of a pain. Get a Tick remote bleader!!! here are some good write ups.
Yes you can change the slave at home in your driveway on jack stands. Without busting a gut, singlehandedly it will take 3 weekends. You need at least 4 jacks as well as ramps. Three of the jacks should roll. There is nothing especially difficult or complex just time consuming. Download Dope's write up to see first hand what you are up against.
You should not need a clutch at 22K miles so leave that alone.
Go get your car out of the dealership. Nothing good ever comes from "dropping it off at the dealer". This is a low tech dumb dirty job so they will give it to their trainee who knows less about your car than you do and cares even less. When he screws it up, you get to pay to have it done over again or do it yourself. If you screw it up, you will know what to fix. Actually, I don't believe you'll screw up. Problems? Just ask here.
The slave is $120.00 from GM Partshouse. Shipping is $10.00. There is a lot of room in that price difference for tools and beer.
Thanks guys for the replies. I appreciate the all of the feedback.
So I called a local shop in Houston (LMR) on Friday morning and they quoted way less. I was almost shocked by the difference. I decided to pass it on to them. Hopefully something good will come out of this, because I am also looking forward to working with them in the future.
I did have a friend who wanted to help with this job, and I kinda regret not taking him up on the offer. That's why I was asking if it could be done on jack stands. I don't enjoy being under cars like that though, I'm claustrophobic and I have a fear of getting crushed.
Hopefully this will be finished on Monday/Tuesday, will chime back in.
I have read several posts about this, but I am frantic, and in a hurry for knowledge as the dealership will begin work on my car in the morning.
The other day my clutch pedal lost pressure, fell to the floor and I was stranded. I was able to pull it up with my foot, and actually get the car in gear long enough to limp home, less than a mile.
Once I got the car home I noticed fluid leaking right next to the oil filter. I had the car towed to the dealer, and the mechanic told me the master and slave cylinders where both bad.
Is it possible to diagnose a slave cylinder without dropping the torque tube? This is crucial because they are quoting me $1800 to fix. That sum is going to hurt the pocket for a while, not to mention if I am going to spend that I would rather buy headers.
BTW the car is an 02 z06 with 22k miles on it.
Thanks in advance!
Like you, I had similar problems with my '02Z 12K. miles, pedal sticking to the floor, fluid at the bell housing, low fluid at the m/c. I took it to a GM dealership in my area and specified that a Corvette only trained tech to work on it. Fortunately, this "Mr Goodwrench Dealership" has done numerous clutch related repairs in the past and I had complete confidence in their workmanship. There is an clutch inspection plate which the tech removed and could see the leaky slave as well as a leaky upper pan gasket (that's another expensive story) the car has 12k. miles and not tracked. Inspection takes 15 minutes and the torque tube does not have to be removed. So I accumulated all the parts, slave assembly, disc, pressure plate/flywheel and pilot bearing. As you know the entire drivetrain has to be dropped to facilitate this relacement and I wasn't prepared to do this twice, thus I replaced everything even with only 12k. miles. The parts costed $789.00 plus $63.00 for shipping, labor at Mr. Goodwrench was $900.00, so for approx $1800.00 the job was done in 7.5 hrs. I am **** with my car and I got it back in pristine shape just as I left it.
Unfortunately the upper pan gasket replacement costed $700 plus parts and a wheel alignment, they basically removed the engine cradle lifted the engine and tinkered with suspension componets, a 6hr. job. Have them check the pan gasket while you are at it.
Since the fluid was leaking from around the oil filter, did you check to see if maybe it was just the connection between the Master Cylinder and slave cylinder? There is a quick disconnect RIGHT THERE that might have gone bad or something...worth a look?
Also inspect the m/c to see if the fluid is coming from there. It's MUCH easier to replace a m/c than a slave, as you have already learned.
Sorry, I got caught up in real life and haven't had much time.
It did turn out to be a bad slave cylinder.
Thanks to all who chimed in and helped with my problem.
LMR, overall they where helpful, and I don't feel like I was taken for a ride. They got my car back on the road for WAY less than the dealership wanted to charge. I would do business with them again.