C5 LS1 damper questions
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 227
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
The proper way to keep the crank from spinning is to use a Kent-Moore J-42386-A flywheel lock. Other people have used other methods with success though.
Also, GM bolts get torqued to 37ft lbs THEN 140 degrees and are torque to yield one time use bolts. ARP bolts get torqued to 240ft lbs.
Just curious, why are you removing the damper? Are you replacing it with a new one?
Also, GM bolts get torqued to 37ft lbs THEN 140 degrees and are torque to yield one time use bolts. ARP bolts get torqued to 240ft lbs.
Just curious, why are you removing the damper? Are you replacing it with a new one?
the KMoore lock works great, I consider it a must have.
Although, I think you missed a copy/paste on the GM OEM bolt installation
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,341
Likes: 8
From: Hopatcong New Jersey
7: Install the NEW crankshaft balancer bolt.
Tighten
7.1. Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).
7.2. Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass to 140 degrees using the J 36660-A.
Just curious what part you believe I missed
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,375
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
I used an ATI Crank Pinning Kit. It places a pin on the SIDE of the crank snout.
http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...ex_ls1_pin.htm
http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/918993.pdf
http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...ex_ls1_pin.htm
http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/918993.pdf
And again, in the case of the ATI damper, which has timing marks on it, would you locate the ATI key slot in line with the key slot for the oil pump?
I've looked at the ATI installation instructions, and they seem to conveniently leave out this little tidbit. I seem to recall their instructions say something like "carefully press pulley in place"....
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Alaska
Someone answer! :)
I am also looking for an answer to:
can you use ATI's drilling fixture with the water pump, alternator, etc in place? In other words, can the crank be drilled with doing nothing more than removing the OE damper?
Am tackling the balancer this weekend... Or might have to move to next if I need to get seals for the water pump and timing cover..
Someone please let me know if the drilling/pinning can be done without removing the waterpump and front timing cover.
can you use ATI's drilling fixture with the water pump, alternator, etc in place? In other words, can the crank be drilled with doing nothing more than removing the OE damper?
Am tackling the balancer this weekend... Or might have to move to next if I need to get seals for the water pump and timing cover..
Someone please let me know if the drilling/pinning can be done without removing the waterpump and front timing cover.
a couple questions
what is the proper way to keep the engine from spinning when removing the damper bolt?
I used a old steel differential carrier clamp wedged on one of the fins and resting on the cross member to loosen the bolt.
when I took off the damper I did not mark the position relative to the crank since it doesn't have a alingment key I figured its position wasn't important.
Do you need to mark the position of the damper to the crank. I've read in some forum threads that you do and others that you don't.
obviously I didn't do it and I'm just wondering if there might be vibration issues.
torque is 240 ft lbs for the bolt right?
what is the proper way to keep the engine from spinning when removing the damper bolt?
I used a old steel differential carrier clamp wedged on one of the fins and resting on the cross member to loosen the bolt.
when I took off the damper I did not mark the position relative to the crank since it doesn't have a alingment key I figured its position wasn't important.
Do you need to mark the position of the damper to the crank. I've read in some forum threads that you do and others that you don't.
obviously I didn't do it and I'm just wondering if there might be vibration issues.
torque is 240 ft lbs for the bolt right?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,804
Likes: 358
From: Northville, MI
Its been several years since I pinned my crank, but I recall there were two pin kits mentioned the most, one was the ATI--which pinned it from the side and the other was the one from a Magna Charger for the FI ket. I bought one of those on flebay and used it. You remove the damper, mine just about fell of, and place the fixture over the crank snout. It had a hole to use, place the drill bit in the hole and then drill the crank and engine interface. It required a 90 degree drill, since I did this in my garage with just the steering rack removed. While at HF, I found a large truck wheel tool with a 30:1 ratio and used it to tighten my TTY balancer bolt. Marked the balancer at the 37lb mark and measured degress and installed the crank bolt. Under the car and on my back I used my standard 1/2 wrench to gingerly put the bolt on the new balancer. Total costs were 9 for the truck wheel tool, 15 for the KM flywheel lock and 30 for the Pin kit. I already had the 90 deg drill.
Since then we have used it on three friends corvettes, mine took eternity, now its a few hours to replace a balancer..
Since then we have used it on three friends corvettes, mine took eternity, now its a few hours to replace a balancer..
