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I’ve got that wobbling pulley affliction on my 2003 Z06. Bought a new pulley and I would like to try to install myself. I saw a few YouTube Vids on removing a Crankshaft Pulley by attaching a socket wrench and cranking the engine. Seems to work but I would love to hear you guys opinions on this trick.
Our harmonic balancers aren't keyed to the crankshaft. That looks like a great way to trash your crankshaft snout. If you're going through all the trouble to replace the pulley, spend an extra 10 minutes and do it the correct way and use a flywheel locking tool.
Plus, how do you plan on re-installing the bolt?
Last edited by dblerman; Dec 10, 2012 at 08:50 PM.
If its a manual trans car, put it 4th or 5th, pull hard on the e.brake, have a helper stand on the brake pedal and the bolt will come right out (with a 2' extension on a breaker bar). You'll need to get the steering rack out of the way.
Scribe installation marks on the balancer and crankshaft prior to removal, then transfer the weights. AdvanceAuto had the correct puller in their loaner tools. Remove the crank bolt, slip a socket (27mm) in the pulley so it sits on the crank and push against the socket.
To install, I got some threaded rod and will slip a 3/4" drive socket (1-1/2) over the threaded rod and tighten a nut against the socket to push on the new pulley.
I just did mine and agree with rx7rob. I had a helper so it made the job easier. One held the balancer with a bar from moving and the other used a 3ft pipe on the end of a breaker bar to get the crank bolt off. Remember those bolts are a one time use unless you have put an arp bolt in. They are cheap but a pita to get off! You will also need to get the steering rack out of the way as mentioned which also is easier with a helper. Good luck!
Originally Posted by GetSet
I’ve got that wobbling pulley affliction on my 2003 Z06. Bought a new pulley and I would like to try to install myself. I saw a few YouTube Vids on removing a Crankshaft Pulley by attaching a socket wrench and cranking the engine. Seems to work but I would love to hear you guys opinions on this trick.
Getset, e-mail me and I will loan you the correct tool to hold the flywheel. I'm just up the road in Tustin. I also have a crank pinning fixture I will loan you. If you use an ARP bolt, and you should, I have a torque wrench that goes to 250 lbs. If you are not VERY mechanically inclined and have a lot of tools, this is not a job for you. A&A used to do them for $600 plus balancer. Rod
Suggest that you change the oil seal on the timing chain cover at the same time.....easy to remove and install....if you dont change it when you have the HB off......you will have to go thru the whole process when the seal leaks.
Since you will be changing the HB....why not pin it at the same time....that way if you upgrade to a sc or turbo your covered.
I just used a regular 3 arm puller from Autozone to remove the pulley. Its on there good so it takes some force. I wouldnt do the "crank your engine trick". Lol. Only thing is there is no room in the C5 so either way youre gonna need to move the steering rack out the way. I had the motor out the car so it was a lot easier. This is one of those easy jobs that suck thanks to location and lack of room. Btw I wouldnt listen to Scotty Kilmer to much or apply what he says to Corvettes. Let him ruin some Hondas.
I’ve got that wobbling pulley affliction on my 2003 Z06. Bought a new pulley and I would like to try to install myself. I saw a few YouTube Vids on removing a Crankshaft Pulley by attaching a socket wrench and cranking the engine. Seems to work but I would love to hear you guys opinions on this trick.
It would be best to follow the service manual procedure on this one. The risk of ending up with either engine vibrations (manual cars), a damaged front oil seal or a balancer that comes off during operation is too great if you do not install it correctly.
It would be best to follow the service manual procedure on this one. The risk of ending up with either engine vibrations (manual cars), a damaged front oil seal or a balancer that comes off during operation is too great if you do not install it correctly.
100% correct.. This isnt a standard SBC. The procedure for crank damper removal and install is very specific. If you dont do it the right way the first time you can always do it the correct way the second time..
All you need is an 130mm long threaded bolt of the same threads as the stock bolt, and a couple of washers/nuts. Available at any Fastenal, or equivelent. Pinning is a good idea.
After 2 days of absence for the OP, I think maybe he has re-thought doing it himself.
That's been known to happen!!
I hate to think that my HB is a ticking time bomb, sitting on the front of my engine. I have a fair amount of mechanical skills, a lot of tools, and I even bought the flywheel stop fixture and Hawk HB installation tool, so I could do the job when necessary. What I don't have, right now, is the ambition to disassemble a fair amount of the front end of my car, just to replace a HB. The car is off the road for the winter, so it's just sitting there, but I did lose a lot of my previous working space, due to some unfortunate circumstances.
I agree with the recommendation to use the OTC tool for removal. It's actually labeled for Chrysler balancer removal, but works great for the LS motors. Both our local AutoZone and Oreilly's have them as loaners, but I chose to buy one.
What I don't have, right now, is the ambition to disassemble a fair amount of the front end of my car, just to replace a HB. The car is off the road for the winter, so it's just sitting there, but I did lose a lot of my previous working space, due to some unfortunate circumstances.
Maybe I'm just getting old........
Just think of it as a perfect excuse to do a cam swap!
There are several ways to get the damper ON and OFF the crank. Yes the OTC tool is cool and works well. Thanks Steve for lending it to me for Mikes Repairs!
I use a LARGE strap wrench to hold the damper tight while I tighten or remove the bolt!
NOTE! The OEM BOLT has a very specific installation procedure. FOLLOW THE SERVICE MANUAL 100% or it wont properly secure the damper to the hub or damage the crank! PERIOD!
The OEM bolt is a single one time use TORQUE TO YEIELD bolt. Use it ONCE ONLY...n Once you use the INSTALLATION TOOL to install the damper on the hub, you use the old bolt to seat the new damper on to the crank them remove it and install the new bolt AS PER THE SERVICE MANUAL! DO NOT use the old bolt to press the new damper on to the crank. Its too short and you risk ripping out the threads inside the crank snout! Use an installation tool!
I made my own:
STRAP WREMCH and install tool I made:
I use the ARP BOLT. Its reuseable and very robust! Works fantastic.
I hate to think that my HB is a ticking time bomb, sitting on the front of my engine. I have a fair amount of mechanical skills, a lot of tools, and I even bought the flywheel stop fixture and Hawk HB installation tool, so I could do the job when necessary. What I don't have, right now, is the ambition to disassemble a fair amount of the front end of my car, just to replace a HB. The car is off the road for the winter, so it's just sitting there, but I did lose a lot of my previous working space, due to some unfortunate circumstances.
Maybe I'm just getting old........
If it's any consolation, the balancer install is WAY easier than doing clutch work. I've done it on jackstands a few times.
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