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Been reading a lot of posts for solutions of the ignition security. This is the first time it's happened. I've cleaned the key, electrical cleaner in the ignition, checked the fuses, ignition and BSM connections. Engine will not turn over. Security issues. Codes displayed are:
P1631
C1287
B2721
B2722
B2723
Key initially was hard to insert. Tried clearing the codes but the B codes instantly return. Battery is good. I've read about wiring a resistor to over ride the security. I've measures my key chip and its 4.69 ohms.
Tomorrow I will have my spare key cut (its a chipped blank now), if that doesn't help, looks like its the ignition.
It's frustrating since its currently parked in a parking lot.
Any other tips to get the car home?
I just had my spare key cut. Locksmith tested both and they are good. They are #13 keys BTW. He recommends me to use a multimeter on the ignition wire for the resistor. If no continuity with the key in, then the ignition is bad. If continuity, it's elsewhere.
I just had my spare key cut. Locksmith tested both and they are good. They are #13 keys BTW. He recommends me to use a multimeter on the ignition wire for the resistor. If no continuity with the key in, then the ignition is bad. If continuity, it's elsewhere.
I just went through this a year ago. Your resistance measurement(or meter) are way off. First I thought you might have had it on the wrong scale, but now you know it could not be right(based on it being a #13 key), no matter where you move the decimal point. You need to measure resistance, NOT continuity. If the resistance reading is not between 7200-7820 ohms, then the lock cylinder is bad, NOT the ignition switch itself.
I just went through this a year ago. Your resistance measurement(or meter) are way off. First I thought you might have had it on the wrong scale, but now you know it could not be right(based on it being a #13 key), no matter where you move the decimal point. You need to measure resistance, NOT continuity. If the resistance reading is not between 7200-7820 ohms, then the lock cylinder is bad, NOT the ignition switch itself.
Okay, I just measured the key resister again. Measured 7.48 which would be 7480 ohms and within tolerance. I disconnected the resistor wires from the ignition, inserted the key with ignition on and also tried it off. No measurement provided. I feel confident the ignition switch is bad.
Okay, I just measured the key resister again. Measured 7.48 which would be 7480 ohms and within tolerance. I disconnected the resistor wires from the ignition, inserted the key with ignition on and also tried it off. No measurement provided. I feel confident the ignition switch is bad.
Does this sound correct?
No, as I already stated in my previous post, that points to the lock cylinder NOT the ignition switch.