TCS/ABS error
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Toms River NJ
TCS/ABS error
I have a 99 FRC with 125k miles with some aftermarket stuff nothing crazy. About a month ago while some exciting driving in the curvy roads, my TCS/ABS lights lit up my dash. Did some research and replaced the wiring harnesses from the front wheel speed sensors to the frame on both sides. I then cleared the codes and went for a drive and still received these codes.
TCS C1225, C1226, C1232 and C1233
Any help is appreciated
TCS C1225, C1226, C1232 and C1233
Any help is appreciated
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 1
From: Port Charlotte FL
Mine started doing the same shortly after i replaced a wheel hub/sensor with a "cheaper" aftermarket one... I was worried it was the ebcm went bad, but did a search on here and I believe it is the whole hub assembly. have you changed hubs? If i reset the codes, everytime I hit 35 mph exactly the tcs/abs codes pop up. Maybe you have a bad hub sensor as well.....
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Toms River NJ
That is exactly what mine does. The lights come on at 35 mph. I have not replaced the hubs yet. I'm not getting any sort of vibration, noise or alignment issues could it still be hubs? I've read on the forum that it is rarely the WSS.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 61
From: montreal quebec
I have a 99 FRC with 125k miles with some aftermarket stuff nothing crazy. About a month ago while some exciting driving in the curvy roads, my TCS/ABS lights lit up my dash. Did some research and replaced the wiring harnesses from the front wheel speed sensors to the frame on both sides. I then cleared the codes and went for a drive and still received these codes.
TCS C1225, C1226, C1232 and C1233
Any help is appreciated
TCS C1225, C1226, C1232 and C1233
Any help is appreciated
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 1
From: Port Charlotte FL
The dealer can narrow it down to which sensor I believe? I'm still having the same problem to this day, heard the front wiring to the hubs can get ate up over time because it is "too short", but my wiring appears fine. If it's not your wiring, I guarantee an hub sensor most likely went bad. How many miles on the car?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 61
From: montreal quebec
The dealer can narrow it down to which sensor I believe? I'm still having the same problem to this day, heard the front wiring to the hubs can get ate up over time because it is "too short", but my wiring appears fine. If it's not your wiring, I guarantee an hub sensor most likely went bad. How many miles on the car?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 1
From: Port Charlotte FL
I never had any issues until my wheel hub bearing went bad and I ordered a replacement online for the front right, it was not GM and cost me under $50 so my guess is "cheap parts" in my case. Only a few times did I get the service tcs/abs before, rarely, usually if i hit a sharp lip type bump of some sort in the road. My car is a 97 so it has the old style ebcm. Never had a sensor issue before, and I've replaced more wheel hub bearings in my car's 125k mile lifetime then I should have.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Toms River NJ
I believe I may have found my problem. After inspecting my G-101 chassis ground connection, it was as dirty and corroded as it could be. It took me about 30 minutes to clean it all up. I'm optimistic for tomorrow's road test.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Toms River NJ
After cleaning grounding point g-102 today, I took the car for a road test and I'm getting codes c1232 and c1233. The other two codes(1225 and 1226) seemed to have resolved themselves. At this point I have checked the speed sensors, replaced the harnesses and grounds. Does anybody have any other suggestions or is purchasing a EBCM necessary.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,373
Likes: 423
I'm thinking you've still got wiring problems. Take the leads going to the wheel sensors off and take the connectors apart. (yes the connectors themselves come apart) Clean them, bend the springs and put them back together again and swap them side to side.
On my car one of the wires likes to be tucked up close to the suspension, the other likes to hang down lower (what does this sound like?) in the breeze. Any other way and they flash codes.
Hey! You're from Jersey? WHAT EXIT?
On my car one of the wires likes to be tucked up close to the suspension, the other likes to hang down lower (what does this sound like?) in the breeze. Any other way and they flash codes.
Hey! You're from Jersey? WHAT EXIT?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 61
From: montreal quebec
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The WSS portion of the HUB is pretty much bullet proof.. Its just a coil of wire on a plactic spool and the reluctor on the hub shaft rotates within thaqt coil. Unless you have damage to the sensor its self (seriously dented/damaged) or the hub pig tail gets ripped off, I seriously doubt that you have WSS issues.
You can disconnect the sensor and measure the output of the sensor. Its an AC Voltage. It will be ZERO VAC to approx 5 VDC (wheel spinning very fast. Its not the voltage that matters but the frequency of that voltage.
HOWEVER,, If you have damaged FEMALE Connector female pins,, That is where your issue lies. Get a spare male pin and TEST THE GRIP of the female pins. You should have a very firm DRAG when you insert and remove the male pin. If not, re-bend the small tong that makes the grip on the in the female pin. I use a dental pick but a sharp scrive works pretty good.
BC
You can disconnect the sensor and measure the output of the sensor. Its an AC Voltage. It will be ZERO VAC to approx 5 VDC (wheel spinning very fast. Its not the voltage that matters but the frequency of that voltage.
HOWEVER,, If you have damaged FEMALE Connector female pins,, That is where your issue lies. Get a spare male pin and TEST THE GRIP of the female pins. You should have a very firm DRAG when you insert and remove the male pin. If not, re-bend the small tong that makes the grip on the in the female pin. I use a dental pick but a sharp scrive works pretty good.
BC
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 61
From: montreal quebec
The WSS portion of the HUB is pretty much bullet proof.. Its just a coil of wire on a plactic spool and the reluctor on the hub shaft rotates within thaqt coil. Unless you have damage to the sensor its self (seriously dented/damaged) or the hub pig tail gets ripped off, I seriously doubt that you have WSS issues.
You can disconnect the sensor and measure the output of the sensor. Its an AC Voltage. It will be ZERO VAC to approx 5 VDC (wheel spinning very fast. Its not the voltage that matters but the frequency of that voltage.
HOWEVER,, If you have damaged FEMALE Connector female pins,, That is where your issue lies. Get a spare male pin and TEST THE GRIP of the female pins. You should have a very firm DRAG when you insert and remove the male pin. If not, re-bend the small tong that makes the grip on the in the female pin. I use a dental pick but a sharp scrive works pretty good.
BC
You can disconnect the sensor and measure the output of the sensor. Its an AC Voltage. It will be ZERO VAC to approx 5 VDC (wheel spinning very fast. Its not the voltage that matters but the frequency of that voltage.
HOWEVER,, If you have damaged FEMALE Connector female pins,, That is where your issue lies. Get a spare male pin and TEST THE GRIP of the female pins. You should have a very firm DRAG when you insert and remove the male pin. If not, re-bend the small tong that makes the grip on the in the female pin. I use a dental pick but a sharp scrive works pretty good.
BC
Side with problem
https://www.dropbox.com/s/odeq6caj21...%2000%20AM.mov
Working side
https://www.dropbox.com/s/66lfjcdb0h...%2027%20AM.mov
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 1
From: Port Charlotte FL
I was looking under my hood today and noticed if you look down below the brake master cyl there is a wiring connector running along the leaf spring I believe.... That is the same one going to the wheel sensors correct? Appears to be an area that brake fluid could be spilled right on the connector. I can also see the connector on the passenger side as well and they look pretty dirty on the outside. I figured it was a bad hub sensor in my case since I just replaced the front right hub assembly with a cheap one off ebay and started throwing codes a week or two later.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
As long as you have voltage,, it's good. The faster it goes the higer it gets.
You cant say it suppose to read XXX, As long as you have a voltage when it rotates and it inceases as you rotate faster ,, your golden.
YES,, The WS connector is on the K member below the brake master cyl and the same place on the other side. Thats where you will find spread pins alot of the time.
You cant say it suppose to read XXX, As long as you have a voltage when it rotates and it inceases as you rotate faster ,, your golden.
YES,, The WS connector is on the K member below the brake master cyl and the same place on the other side. Thats where you will find spread pins alot of the time.
