Engine quits.
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From: Chicago Suburb
St. Jude Donor '13
Engine quits.
After several miles the engine just quits when I come to a stop. It will re-start, but only runs a minute or so. After car cools down, engine will start and run for several miles until I come to stop, etc, etc.
2001 Z06, new battery and Valeo alternator. HELP! Afraid to drive it!
2001 Z06, new battery and Valeo alternator. HELP! Afraid to drive it!
Last edited by tacman; Dec 15, 2012 at 02:11 PM. Reason: Spelling and clarification
Drifting
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From: Bahama North Carolina
After several miles the engine just quits when I come to a stop. It will re-start, but only runs a minute or so. After car cools down, engine will start and run for several miles until I come to stop, etc, etc.
2001 Z06, new battery and Valeo alternator. HELP! Afraid to drive it!
2001 Z06, new battery and Valeo alternator. HELP! Afraid to drive it!
http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm
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From: Chicago Suburb
St. Jude Donor '13
Engine quits
Already pulled codes; all "H", even immediately after an episode where the engine quit. I'm seeing communication issues - U1000H, U1064H- all mentioned under 58 SDM, AO LDCM and BO RFA. There are also history codes related to battery fault, but the new Die Hard is barely 6 months old. Battery voltage steadily declines, starting around 13.5; After idling for twenty minutes, the engine quit when voltage read 12.7. DOn't know if that has anything to do with it. Grounds?
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Already pulled codes; all "H", even immediately after an episode where the engine quit. I'm seeing communication issues - U1000H, U1064H- all mentioned under 58 SDM, AO LDCM and BO RFA. There are also history codes related to battery fault, but the new Die Hard is barely 6 months old. Battery voltage steadily declines, starting around 13.5; After idling for twenty minutes, the engine quit when voltage read 12.7. DOn't know if that has anything to do with it. Grounds?
How are you reading battery voltage? If it by looking at the DIC and or the IPC analog gage,,, That is NOT true battery voltage. That the voltage that is being supplied to the modules AFTER the ignition switch.
Read the battery voltage directly on the battery terminals with a volt meter. If there is a significant difference between the voltages that you read on the meter and the IPC,, your ignition switch needs servicing.
- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
There may be more underlying issues but, take care of this issue first. Some U series DTCs are cause by low voltage issues.
BC
Race Director
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From: Santa Rosa Beach FL
I'm just speculating on fuel pump as a possible issue. Has the car been subject to condensation? Like being parked outdoors for years without Techron treatment?
I pulled a rusty fuel pump out of my low mileage C4 long ago. Car was always outside. C5 is much more complex to get to.
Don't rely on my speculation.
I pulled a rusty fuel pump out of my low mileage C4 long ago. Car was always outside. C5 is much more complex to get to.
Don't rely on my speculation.
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From: Chicago Suburb
St. Jude Donor '13
Hi - I cleared all codes and then let the car run until it quit (predictably after idling for about 20 minutes). Checked codes again: NONE!
Yes, I'm checking battery voltage using dash gauges. I don't have an ammeter. During the 20 minutes of idling time the reading of battery voltage steadily declines from 13.5 to 11.8 or so.
Yes, I'm checking battery voltage using dash gauges. I don't have an ammeter. During the 20 minutes of idling time the reading of battery voltage steadily declines from 13.5 to 11.8 or so.
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Joined: May 2011
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From: Chicago Suburb
St. Jude Donor '13
Engine Quits
I'm just speculating on fuel pump as a possible issue. Has the car been subject to condensation? Like being parked outdoors for years without Techron treatment?
I pulled a rusty fuel pump out of my low mileage C4 long ago. Car was always outside. C5 is much more complex to get to.
Don't rely on my speculation.
I pulled a rusty fuel pump out of my low mileage C4 long ago. Car was always outside. C5 is much more complex to get to.
Don't rely on my speculation.
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Tech Contributor
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Fuel filter has NOTHING to do with a decrease in voltage.
Well, until you find a DC Volt Meter and read the battery voltage directly on the battery terminals whit the engine running,, I cant tell you if you have a charging system issue or not. If you have normal battery voltage on the battery and falling voltage on the DIC,, you have an IGNITION SWITCH ISSUE!!!
If you car dies and doesn't throw a DTC, it either running out of fuel, have a secondary ignition issue or the ignition switch is defective and the engine thinks you turing off the engine.
BC
Well, until you find a DC Volt Meter and read the battery voltage directly on the battery terminals whit the engine running,, I cant tell you if you have a charging system issue or not. If you have normal battery voltage on the battery and falling voltage on the DIC,, you have an IGNITION SWITCH ISSUE!!!
If you car dies and doesn't throw a DTC, it either running out of fuel, have a secondary ignition issue or the ignition switch is defective and the engine thinks you turing off the engine.
BC
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From: Chicago Suburb
St. Jude Donor '13
Fuel filter has NOTHING to do with a decrease in voltage.
Well, until you find a DC Volt Meter and read the battery voltage directly on the battery terminals whit the engine running,, I cant tell you if you have a charging system issue or not. If you have normal battery voltage on the battery and falling voltage on the DIC,, you have an IGNITION SWITCH ISSUE!!!
If you car dies and doesn't throw a DTC, it either running out of fuel, have a secondary ignition issue or the ignition switch is defective and the engine thinks you turing off the engine.
BC
Well, until you find a DC Volt Meter and read the battery voltage directly on the battery terminals whit the engine running,, I cant tell you if you have a charging system issue or not. If you have normal battery voltage on the battery and falling voltage on the DIC,, you have an IGNITION SWITCH ISSUE!!!
If you car dies and doesn't throw a DTC, it either running out of fuel, have a secondary ignition issue or the ignition switch is defective and the engine thinks you turing off the engine.
BC
TC
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From: Chicago Suburb
St. Jude Donor '13
Engine Quits
There's less than 1 volt between dash gage and meter. At start up, meter reads 14. 4, dash gage reads 13.5. That delta remains linear until engine quits after about 10 minutes of idling. Voltage across battery immediately after shut down was was 12.1, while dash read 11.2. Any thoughts on my next step?
Team Owner
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From: East Meadow NY
St. Jude Donor '12
I am now the proud owner of a new multimeter.
There's less than 1 volt between dash gage and meter. At start up, meter reads 14. 4, dash gage reads 13.5. That delta remains linear until engine quits after about 10 minutes of idling. Voltage across battery immediately after shut down was was 12.1, while dash read 11.2. Any thoughts on my next step?
There's less than 1 volt between dash gage and meter. At start up, meter reads 14. 4, dash gage reads 13.5. That delta remains linear until engine quits after about 10 minutes of idling. Voltage across battery immediately after shut down was was 12.1, while dash read 11.2. Any thoughts on my next step?
I would suspect something in the charging system. Alternator/voltage regulator could be on the way out. If you are handy, you can pull the alternator and have it tested. Bill is the expert and may have a better course of action.
Last edited by chaase; Dec 19, 2012 at 05:28 PM.
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Hmmmmmmmm,,, For the engine to just SHUT OFF and not leave any DTCs,, It thinks its shutting off normally. If it shut off on low voltage, you would see a lot of U series DTCs and the LDCM & RDCM would give low voltage DTCs.
Your car is just turning OFF or its running out of fuel.
I suspect its turning its self OFF. When you turn the ignition OFF, you disconnect the Hot In Run & Start voltage to all the modules the O2 sensors and the fuel pump and other things.- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
Again, I recommend that you disassemble and rebuild your ignition switch. It FREE and pretty easy:
- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
If the contacts inside the switch are damaged / burnt, it can lose contact and the output voltage on that terminal can be lost.
Your car is just turning OFF or its running out of fuel.
I suspect its turning its self OFF. When you turn the ignition OFF, you disconnect the Hot In Run & Start voltage to all the modules the O2 sensors and the fuel pump and other things.- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
Again, I recommend that you disassemble and rebuild your ignition switch. It FREE and pretty easy:
- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
If the contacts inside the switch are damaged / burnt, it can lose contact and the output voltage on that terminal can be lost.
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From: Chicago Suburb
St. Jude Donor '13
Any photos to go along with the detailed dialog? If I understand, I need to pull the console, the trim plate around the the radio and HVAC controls and finally the knee bolster. What's a knee bolster?
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Catawissa Pa
Fuel filter has NOTHING to do with a decrease in voltage.
I never insinuated the fuel filter had anything to do with a decrease in voltage. It sounded like a fuel problem to me. From now on I won`t offer any help. I`ll just leave it up to the experts.
I never insinuated the fuel filter had anything to do with a decrease in voltage. It sounded like a fuel problem to me. From now on I won`t offer any help. I`ll just leave it up to the experts.
Team Owner
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From: cookeville tennessee
Hi - I cleared all codes and then let the car run until it quit (predictably after idling for about 20 minutes). Checked codes again: NONE!
Yes, I'm checking battery voltage using dash gauges. I don't have an ammeter. During the 20 minutes of idling time the reading of battery voltage steadily declines from 13.5 to 11.8 or so.
Yes, I'm checking battery voltage using dash gauges. I don't have an ammeter. During the 20 minutes of idling time the reading of battery voltage steadily declines from 13.5 to 11.8 or so.
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From: Chicago Suburb
St. Jude Donor '13
Ignition Switch Removal
OK, I know what the knee bolster is, but 4 pages of 8 point instructions is a bit of a challenge. I'm OK with getting the console out along with the trim plate, but removal of the switch itself could really use some photos. Anybody?
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From: Chicago Suburb
St. Jude Donor '13
OK. You're right; not that hard. Ignition switch now repaired. Interesting that the same contacts were burned in my switch as shown in Bill's photos. However, voltage drop issues are still present. I am waiting for my 3rd alternator to arrive, assuming that previous 2 P/N's were wrong for my car and the voltage regulator and the PCM were speaking different languages. At least after I re-started the car after the IS rebuild, there were ZER0 codes.
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From: Chicago Suburb
St. Jude Donor '13
Engine no longer quits!
OK. You're right; not that hard. Ignition switch now repaired. Interesting that the same contacts were burned in my switch as shown in Bill's photos. However, voltage drop issues are still present. I am waiting for my 3rd alternator to arrive, assuming that previous 2 P/N's were wrong for my car and the voltage regulator and the PCM were speaking different languages. At least after I re-started the car after the IS rebuild, there were ZER0 codes.
What have I learned from this?
1) ALL HAIL BILL! Ignition switch rebuild seems to have solved spontaneous quitting issue.
2) If you need a new alternator, MAKE SURE YOU GET THE PART NUMBER CORRECT. Do not assume the parts house will give you the right one. i.e., there are 3 different p/n's for my 2001.