I am a newbie owner since August. My 99 vert was in last week to have the harmonic balancer replaced (which 100% solved the terrible noise coming from under the hood). After I picked-up the car, a dash light came-on and I am getting a message to the effect: DPS Active Handling Warming Up. It won't go off and the yellow active handling light is on .....on my dash.

Help a new guy please. What happened and what do I need to tell the fella that worked on the car. I think there is some cause and effect from having front end bits and pieces removed to replace the HB last week.

Thanks in advance.
KB :>)

 

Well,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, If the people that repaired your car failed to maintain the proper steering wheel alignment with respect to the disconnected steering rack shaft, that could be the cause of the light and message.

The Steering Wheel Position Sensor (SWPS) is used to tell the EBTCM where the driver wants the car to go. When you first start the car, the EBTCM reads the SWPS and if the car has been going straight for a period of time it uses that digital and analog value as zero or straight.

In your case, its probably off too much for it to comprehend. The only way to fix it now is to turn the wheels to the straight ahead position and use the GM Tech 2 and display the value of the SWPS. Then disconnect the steering shaft to steering rack and reposition the steering wheel to the TRUE straight ahead position.

If you read your DTCs I bet you have a SWPS related code. Probably a C1286 or 1281 Read and post your DTCs

Learn to read your DTCS from the drivers seat! Heres how: Merry Christmas!!

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!



Bill

 

You may want to take a look at the 2 wire sensor in the airbridge (Intake Air Control?). A wire in the connecter to the sensor was bad and kept giving the Active Handling message till fixed.

 

Do what Bill suggests.

Bill

 

I also agree with both Bills on this.

 

First off, you need to pull the codes. But, my bet is that it's the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor. The active handling system uses the IAT to tell it how cold it is outside so it knows what kind of weather conditions it's dealing with. When the IAT connection is dead the active handling system thinks it's -38 degree's outside. There's nothing to 'warm up' on the active handling system, it's just waiting for all of the data to determine it's mode of operation for the current weather conditions. Since it can't see the IAT (one of the parameters it needs) it's simply telling you it's not ready to activate, or 'warming up'.

There are really only three problems that it could be. A bad connection at the connector that plugs into the IAT sensor, a bad ground, or a bad connection at the PCM. My symptoms appeared after I installed my Callaway Honker. Your mechanic removed this connector when he removed the air bridge. If he pulled on the wire when removing the connector from the sensor, then the computer will no longer receive a signal from the sensor, throwing a code and indirectly activating the Active Handling Warmup.

Your GM dealer sells this IAT connection for about $28. It's a new connection with a 10 inch lead wire on it. Part Number 12102620. My local dealer had one. Cut the wire to the IAT sensor an inch or so from the end of connection and splice and solder this new piece in. I put shrink wrap over the soldered connection and then electrical tape over it and it looks like stock. I started the car and went for a drive. No warm up and no CE light. After about 3,000 miles of driving I am code free and CE light free.

Post all of your codes. I'll bet you have P0113 and P1111 stored.

Questions, let me know. This should be everything you need. If you want more, search on codes P0113H and P1111H.

Kurt

 

This is what I was trying to say.