Got a code today w/ a rough idle. I looked and found this. Anyone have any info? TIA

 

That my friend is the PCV valve. It is inside a rubber fitting. Very common problem. I don't know if that entire fitting is sold aftermarket but you can check. If you have to get it from the dealer, its expensive.

If you cant find it at NAPA, check Advance Auto and if you can get it,order it from www.gmpartshouse.com Patrick and Gean have all that stuff a lot less than the local dealer!

Bill

 

Thanks Bill!

 

Its causing a nasty vacuum leak. I'm curious to know if you have any codes or a check engine light.

Until you can find a new replacement, use some electrical tape and make temp emergency repair. You engine will thank you!

Read and post your DTCs:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!







Bill

 

^yeah, both..that's how I knew where to look. So far NAPA/Autozone only has the valve and an elbow. May have to call Gene

 

I cant believe how common an issue this is on the C5! , seems like every other week someone has a vacuum leak from that tube.

 

I can believe it.

Many C5's are going on 16 to 17 years old.
That's quite a bit to ask for a rubber part so close to the intake.

 

I went and got a PCV valve at NAPA and they did have PVC "tubing" on the computer "dealer only" w/ no pic. I was wondering if I could just run a regular length tube on the one side from PCV to Intake. I just don't know what the hell is on the other end connecting it!? I taped it up well until I can find what I need.

 

Hope this helps At least leads you in the right direction.

http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/geniii...w_pcv_hose.jpg

http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/geniii..._installed.jpg

 

^thanks man..just need to find that rubber "housing" for the PCV

 

I don't believe GM sells just that boot by it self any more.

I believe that you have to buy the whole assembly now (to get boot)
GM part #12590632

Look like this/similar
http://ls1tech.com/forums/attachment...se-example.jpg

 

Holy crap! That part must cost a small fortune.

In another post, a simple TDR relay form the dealer cost the OP $50.00..... There $12 at the parts store.

How much was that?

Bill

 

option 2: install a catch can.