My 99 had a column lock issue. It had all the recalls and a fresh battery with the recommeded CCA, but still was undriveable due to the 2mph shut off. So, I installed the LMC5, and the problem was solved. For a month.

Now everytime I put the key in the ignition I get the "Pull Key..." msg (also the 2 mph shut off). I pull it, wait 3 secs, put it back in and it cranks and drives like nothing's wrong. It isn't throwing any current DTCs.

First, any ideas? I've cleaned the ignition switch contacts, and cleaned the bcm relay contacts. I also bypassed the VATS resistor.

Second, does anyone know what problems will throw the "Pull Key..." msg?

 

Contact Richard at Compliance Parts. I had the same issue on my '99 M6 vert and worked with him. He's a great guy and will help you with your issue. Call the company number and just ask for Richard.

 

8VETTE7 is one of the most column lock circuit educated forum expert we have and has more experience resolving CL issue than most any one. OUTSTANDING SUPPORT AND KNOWLEDGE!



I hate blaming C5 ERRORS or PROBLEMS with a blanket "THIS WILL FIX YOUR ISSUE." Take a look at this possibility..

Seeing that your are experiencing random problems with the column circuit,, let’s try to break it down and figure out what may be causing the issue. A lot of column lock problems are power related. You have already acknowledged that and have replaced your battery.

However,,,,,,,,,,,, Just because you have a new battery, doesn’t mean that the Column Lock Circuit or the BCM is getting all the correct power or the grounds.

So,, check out the circuits provided:









The BCM is powered by multiple sources. Some are HOT ALL THE TIME and some are only powered when you turn the ignition switch is ON. ("HOT IN ON AND START or HOT IN ON AND RUN.

Use a DC Volt meter and when the car is cold (first thing in the morning) turn on the ignition and read the power being supplied to those fuses. I’ve seen the ignition switch have dirty corroded contacts and output something LESS than full battery voltage. I’ve seen fuses that have corroded spade terminals and Loose fuses..

On top of each fuse are two small holes. Those are TEST POINTS. Read those test points to chassis ground to make sure that you have proper battery voltage being supplied.. Should be the same as battery voltage measured at the battery terminals. Most ALL switches will drop a small amount of voltage but if you are seeing a big drop, that could be part of your issue. Cycling the switch sometimes gets a better connection as you have expierenced simular results...


HOW TO FIX YOUR SWITCH IF ITS BAD!!!


- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

You can unplug the BCM connectors that have chassie ground wires and read that specific wire to a known good chassis ground or battery ground. Should see zero OHMS or very close to that value.

 

The above schematics are for a 99 C5 .. If you have a newer C5, the info is a little bit different.

 

Thanks for the tips! I put in a call to Compliance today and am waiting on a call back.

I hope to break out the multimeter in the next few days and check the fuses.

I'll report back when I have more info.

 

I've had the LMC5 for over a year now. I have gotten the pull key message 3 or 4 times. It has always been when I was in a hurry, stuck the key in and switched it quickly to start. If I insert the key, turn it to on and hesitate before switching to start I've never got the message.

I don't have a clue why, but wondered if by switching it quickly to start it messed with the signals in some way.