When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
then you're talking a ~600 lift/230 duration cam, decent heads, patriot stage 2's at a bare minimum (maybe those + work) or better off with AFR/TEA. and a tune.
and the tires.
that M5 is no joke, and when he learns to drive it, life's only gonna get worse. even with the above work, you have probably ~35% of the financial investment he made. a forced induction German V8 is nothing to scoff at
2010 has 500hp, 5.0 V10.. 2011+ has a twin turbo 4.4L V8 that's making 560hp and 500+lbs of torque.
if you're beating that with 340 whp, he's a shotty driver, just saying. time to bust out the head and cams, or a 100-150 shot. of course he'll just go find easier prey to make fun of, but it wont be you!
BMW ***** should be embarrassed that he's running neck and neck with someone that's ~160 HP down from him.
Is that car really heavy or something? Its not like after the launch his power is impressive. I still pull on him... regardless of his skill, after the cars moving, it should pull away if its really quicker...
Is that car really heavy or something? Its not like after the launch his power is impressive. I still pull on him... regardless of his skill, after the cars moving, it should pull away if its really quicker...
Holy crap, I didn't realize they were so heavy. He's got nearly 1000 lbs on you, but the power to weight ratio is still well in his favor.
seems like we are leaving out the obvious and easy fix, easier than Heads/Cam...cheaper too
4:10 rear diff
Good Luck Nuke!
PM me your email address and maybe we can head to the track together sometime.
yea, that'd help some. already has 3.42's.. 4.10's would be a pain to daily around on. i'd hate to suggest he roll around town loping, surging, and getting 8 mpg just to put an M5 owner in his place.
seems like we are leaving out the obvious and easy fix, easier than Heads/Cam...cheaper too
4:10 rear diff
Good Luck Nuke!
PM me your email address and maybe we can head to the track together sometime.
Will do man
Originally Posted by sean.b
yea, that'd help some. already has 3.42's.. 4.10's would be a pain to daily around on. i'd hate to suggest he roll around town loping, surging, and getting 8 mpg just to put an M5 owner in his place.
Haha, ya, Im totally satisfied with my 3.42's. It is a my daily driver.
Heads/ cam to get you over 400 rwhp, drag radials, gears (3.73's for a dd) and a higher stall ~4000 rpm (could be expensive to get one that is street friendly)
In the end it will boil down to how much $$ and time you want to spend but if you are a regular drag racer then you will eventually do it all anyway.
Raising the car back up to stock ride height will help your 60ft time more than you can imagine. Lowering the car reduces the aft weight transfer and it makes a big difference. It costs nothing, and it sure doesn't hurt to try it, so I'd jack it back up to stock ride height.
Also if you can get a set of scales, you can check the rear tire weights. Get them even with you in the car, it will help the rear end bite when you come off the line.
The rear spring bolts should NOT be equal. Expect that the RR bolt will have more theads showing than the left. Generally it is about two or three threads more on the right than the left.
If you guys are that close and youre on street tires then some dr's will do it. Done. Also you should comment back on his photos how a car with 500+hp is barely neck n neck with a stock c5 with 340hp.
If you guys are that close and youre on street tires then some dr's will do it. Done. Also you should comment back on his photos how a car with 500+hp is barely neck n neck with a stock c5 with 340hp.
He's not stock. He's pushing 340Whp which would put him around 400 at the crank. But even with that, that M5 has a significant p/w advantage.
Get some real DR's so you can get that 60' down. Then pick up some GTO spares (for skinnies) and some M&H front runner tires. For rear drags get an OEM set of 17" front Z06 rims (C5) and some hoosiers 275s. Shave some weight, and help you hook.
also explains why you're so close. pretty evenly matched. that makes it much easier. drag radials alone should put you on top, but a small cam or head will put you well ahead. assuming you dont spin.
If you guys are that close and youre on street tires then some dr's will do it. Done. Also you should comment back on his photos how a car with 500+hp is barely neck n neck with a stock c5 with 340hp.
Originally Posted by nullpointer
Get some real DR's so you can get that 60' down. Then pick up some GTO spares (for skinnies) and some M&H front runner tires. For rear drags get an OEM set of 17" front Z06 rims (C5) and some hoosiers 275s. Shave some weight, and help you hook.
I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a drag pack CCW 3 piece rims and Mickey Thompson tires. Ill post pics later today after work. With these, I'll be probably around 1/2 second faster supposedly. Time slips will tell...