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Pulling out all the stops

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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 02:01 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by NukeC5
Definitely looks like the 2011+ .... $hit!!!!
then you're talking a ~600 lift/230 duration cam, decent heads, patriot stage 2's at a bare minimum (maybe those + work) or better off with AFR/TEA. and a tune.

and the tires.

that M5 is no joke, and when he learns to drive it, life's only gonna get worse. even with the above work, you have probably ~35% of the financial investment he made. a forced induction German V8 is nothing to scoff at
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by sean.b
2010 has 500hp, 5.0 V10.. 2011+ has a twin turbo 4.4L V8 that's making 560hp and 500+lbs of torque.

if you're beating that with 340 whp, he's a shotty driver, just saying. time to bust out the head and cams, or a 100-150 shot. of course he'll just go find easier prey to make fun of, but it wont be you!


BMW ***** should be embarrassed that he's running neck and neck with someone that's ~160 HP down from him.
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 03:04 PM
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Is that car really heavy or something? Its not like after the launch his power is impressive. I still pull on him... regardless of his skill, after the cars moving, it should pull away if its really quicker...
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by NukeC5
Is that car really heavy or something? Its not like after the launch his power is impressive. I still pull on him... regardless of his skill, after the cars moving, it should pull away if its really quicker...
Holy crap, I didn't realize they were so heavy. He's got nearly 1000 lbs on you, but the power to weight ratio is still well in his favor.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M5

Kerb weight 1,945 kg (4,288 lb)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Corvette_(C5)

1,472 kg (3,245 lb)
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 07:09 PM
  #25  
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seems like we are leaving out the obvious and easy fix, easier than Heads/Cam...cheaper too

4:10 rear diff

Good Luck Nuke!

PM me your email address and maybe we can head to the track together sometime.
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 07:12 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by wcsinx


BMW ***** should be embarrassed that he's running neck and neck with someone that's ~160 HP down from him.
I'll second that lol
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 07:24 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by steven31371
seems like we are leaving out the obvious and easy fix, easier than Heads/Cam...cheaper too

4:10 rear diff

Good Luck Nuke!

PM me your email address and maybe we can head to the track together sometime.
yea, that'd help some. already has 3.42's.. 4.10's would be a pain to daily around on. i'd hate to suggest he roll around town loping, surging, and getting 8 mpg just to put an M5 owner in his place.
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by steven31371
seems like we are leaving out the obvious and easy fix, easier than Heads/Cam...cheaper too

4:10 rear diff

Good Luck Nuke!

PM me your email address and maybe we can head to the track together sometime.
Will do man

Originally Posted by sean.b
yea, that'd help some. already has 3.42's.. 4.10's would be a pain to daily around on. i'd hate to suggest he roll around town loping, surging, and getting 8 mpg just to put an M5 owner in his place.
Haha, ya, Im totally satisfied with my 3.42's. It is a my daily driver.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 01:18 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by steven31371
seems like we are leaving out the obvious and easy fix, easier than Heads/Cam...cheaper too

4:10 rear diff

Good Luck Nuke!

PM me your email address and maybe we can head to the track together sometime.
Tried to PM you, but it gave me a message about your box being to full...
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 01:57 AM
  #30  
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What mph does he run? That will be a clue as to wether or not he can drive.

For some reason, I thought you had real drag radials.

Isn't the place you race not even a real dedicated drag strip?

You can at some time make your own drag pack for a heck of a lot less than 1500 bux.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 08:20 AM
  #31  
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Heads/ cam to get you over 400 rwhp, drag radials, gears (3.73's for a dd) and a higher stall ~4000 rpm (could be expensive to get one that is street friendly)
In the end it will boil down to how much $$ and time you want to spend but if you are a regular drag racer then you will eventually do it all anyway.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 08:58 AM
  #32  
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Raising the car back up to stock ride height will help your 60ft time more than you can imagine. Lowering the car reduces the aft weight transfer and it makes a big difference. It costs nothing, and it sure doesn't hurt to try it, so I'd jack it back up to stock ride height.

Also if you can get a set of scales, you can check the rear tire weights. Get them even with you in the car, it will help the rear end bite when you come off the line.

The rear spring bolts should NOT be equal. Expect that the RR bolt will have more theads showing than the left. Generally it is about two or three threads more on the right than the left.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 08:58 AM
  #33  
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If you guys are that close and youre on street tires then some dr's will do it. Done. Also you should comment back on his photos how a car with 500+hp is barely neck n neck with a stock c5 with 340hp.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 09:10 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by C5Natie
If you guys are that close and youre on street tires then some dr's will do it. Done. Also you should comment back on his photos how a car with 500+hp is barely neck n neck with a stock c5 with 340hp.
He's not stock. He's pushing 340Whp which would put him around 400 at the crank. But even with that, that M5 has a significant p/w advantage.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 09:29 AM
  #35  
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Get some real DR's so you can get that 60' down. Then pick up some GTO spares (for skinnies) and some M&H front runner tires. For rear drags get an OEM set of 17" front Z06 rims (C5) and some hoosiers 275s. Shave some weight, and help you hook.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 10:02 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
He's not stock. He's pushing 340Whp which would put him around 400 at the crank. But even with that, that M5 has a significant p/w advantage.
The 340rwhp is the biggest limiting factor.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 10:33 AM
  #37  
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haha a link to his car and Fb page, that's funny. that appears to be an '03 or so model. those are a lot more tame.

http://www.motortrend.com/cars/2003/...pecifications/

Power: 294 kW , 394 HP SAE @ 6,600 rpm; 368 ft lb , 499 Nm @ 3,800 rpm
Read more: http://www.motortrend.com/cars/2003/...#ixzz2JTPPzejJ

also explains why you're so close. pretty evenly matched. that makes it much easier. drag radials alone should put you on top, but a small cam or head will put you well ahead. assuming you dont spin.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 10:56 AM
  #38  
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That pic is of my car, but not of his, I'll post one of his once I upload some to photo bucket. Its definitely a newer one.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by SS2001SS
The 340rwhp is the biggest limiting factor.
I dont think the power is.. like I said, I do gain on him, or pull away once we hook. I really think its the launch I have to worry about.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by C5Natie
If you guys are that close and youre on street tires then some dr's will do it. Done. Also you should comment back on his photos how a car with 500+hp is barely neck n neck with a stock c5 with 340hp.
Originally Posted by nullpointer
Get some real DR's so you can get that 60' down. Then pick up some GTO spares (for skinnies) and some M&H front runner tires. For rear drags get an OEM set of 17" front Z06 rims (C5) and some hoosiers 275s. Shave some weight, and help you hook.
I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a drag pack CCW 3 piece rims and Mickey Thompson tires. Ill post pics later today after work. With these, I'll be probably around 1/2 second faster supposedly. Time slips will tell...
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