Ill try to make a long story short,
I have a new mortal enemy at the drag strip! He drives a 2010-11-or-12 BMW M5 thats modified. I won the class we are in once, and he won it this last time. I heard he was talking allot of trash while down there from others, and paid no attention to it. But now I found more from his own mouth on race-legals page as comments on my cars photos . Stuff like, "to bad it was too slow to get the trophy" and "blah blah blah". You know, that horrible attitude that people get when they get on top for once.

Our cars are pretty much right on par with one another. We kept getting 8.490 ish times when we raced each other, but I did pull three 8.25+ times with 8.250 being my best. Im not sure if he is capable of that as the best I see from the time slips are 8.490 from him. But he did many runs that I did not see times from.

I've been on here over the past few months asking questions about different tricks for my own personal gain. But now its for a new goal! Beating that stuck up ***** in his beamer!

So what this thread is about is anything and everything I can do to make sure my car is set up for the best possible runs I can make. I am pretty well aware of most everything you can do and am going to try the disconnect of the front sway bar, and take out more weight than usual for reduction. I bring a gauge and let out air as needed, run less than half a tank of fuel, remove washer fluid reservoir etc.

What are some tricks you track gurus use to give that ever so little bit of an edge? Im certain that the launch is all I need to focus on because my car always slowly gained on him when he had a good launch, or slowly pulled away from his when I got off good. I know Im answering my own question here, but I need to make sure everything else is ready to go too, just in case I am not consistent!

I am running NTO5 tries. Not NTO5R's so they are basic street radials. I usually run 29psi fully warmed up after a couple runs, then use that for the rest of the night. Any insight on a more proper pressure? It has seemed to be the best for me in the past..

Other info: 1999 A4 w/ 3.42 gears and 3200 stall. Stock engine with bolt on's, Sparco drivers seat, passenger gets removed along with anything I can easily remove from the interior (Cd changer, mats, trunk covers, etc). Car makes 340whp. Totally unsure about the M5's specs...

Sorry this got so long, but if anyone bothered to read it all, thank you, and hit me with your suggestions!!!

Next race is on the 8th!

 

29psi seems like an awful lot to me. And make sure the tires are good and hot. You really have to roast them to get good stick.

 

Can you elaborate on stock engine bolt ons? That may be the best place to start if you have the other stuff covered.
Chris

 

there's always ye old bottle o laughing gas. nothing says "wtf?" like watching a car you previously raced suddenly firing a 150 shot.

arent you doing a head/cam soon?? he'd have to spray to keep up with that..

 

Spray it till it bogs. Then dial it back a little. LOL

 

2010 has 500hp, 5.0 V10.. 2011+ has a twin turbo 4.4L V8 that's making 560hp and 500+lbs of torque.

if you're beating that with 340 whp, he's a shotty driver, just saying. time to bust out the head and cams, or a 100-150 shot. of course he'll just go find easier prey to make fun of, but it wont be you!

 

If they are street radials like the MT/Hoosier drag radials, he needs to be down closer to 20psi hot. Based on the times quoted, this is 1/8 mile and his 60' times are going to be really important.

The OP is pretty outgunned in the HP department so he may need to up the ante on that front depending on things.

 

Elaborate on my bolt on's? Sure, Like I said, engine has not been torn into. Starting from the front: K&N intake, 85mm MAF, LS2 TB, FAST 92mm intake manifold, BBK shorty headers (Cali car), x-pipe, borla straight pipes.
As far as suspension, Its not a drag setup at all, just your normal driver upgrades. Eibach sway-bars, Bilstein HD shocks, C6 tunnel plate, Pfadt Trans mount, lowered on stock bolts.
All I can really do to help here is disconnect the front sway-bar to allow the front to lift more and transfer weight to the rear.

It must be a 2010, I never heard anything like a turbo sound. Im very certain it was all engine. And yes, he must be a crappy driver if hes got that kind of power. I feel good knowing I ran a few 10ths faster than he was averaging... but like I said, his car should be capable of that, but maybe not him as a driver...

Yes, I should be the underdog here, which will make victory ever so sweet! If I can attain it anyway.
So 20ish PSI even on a set of street radials!? I must be more clueless than I thought! My Nitto NT05 street tires would hook better with that PSI?

 

I may be able to hook one up rather quickly... But I order parts online and dont know if I have time to get something like that done... But defiantly the best sneak attack I can do!

 

Give it a try and see how it does. I was looking them up and they are not real drag radials, but the lower pressure might help. Take it to a test and tune event and start playing with the tire pressure.

Your 60' times are huge in this race. You need all the traction you can get so you can launch harder. What kind of 60' times are you getting? I could get under 2.0 seconds with run flats.

 

I run Nt-05's on my Z. 29psi is too much I dont run that on the street. Like the others have recommended try lowering it and see how it goes.

 

Ya, they are just street tires. But Ill definitely play with lowering the pressure.

I have pretty consistent 2.080 60fts. I know I need some work in this area. But Im still learning this 3200 stall converter. And these cars like to bog down if you have to let up a little...

 

you reprogrammed the shift points/speed yet? i bought a Predator which is a sh***y tuner, but works great for removing o2 codes and changing shift points. I have an RPM stage 5 4l60e, and between that and the tuner, the car got a lot faster just because of the fact it slams into gear now. it'd probably chew up your stock 4l60e, but they're made to be replaced anyway.

 

did it look like this

or this 2011+

 

^^ dunno, show him the front in a rear view, it'd be easier to recognize!

man that 2011+ is hot, wont lie.

 

I have a sure fire way to destroy him on the strip, but I'm not sure about dropping 1,500 bucks right now. I have been eyeing these anyway, but don't want to think later that I bough something just to take on some guy I don't even know.

The shop I go to has a one time used drag pack for sale. (MHT tires and CCW wheels). They are a perfect sized "swap and go" set that requires nothing but swapping them out for track days! Were talking a half second possible drop in ET here!

He wants 1500 and said the complete setup was over 2500 new. Its a good deal, but still allot of money...

 

Like others said, tires dialed in, NOS or possible 1.8 roller rockers. Obviously they are not going to give you 100 HP but they will compliment your current parts. I see them all the time on here used and for sale. Easy to setup and doesn't cost anything to refill. Between tires and that it would probably put you over the top so you consistently beat that guy. Most of us would love to see some vids of you kicking his but so make sure you get some.
GL
Chris

 

Definitely looks like the 2011+ .... $hit!!!!

 

Yes, car is fully tuned, engine and tranny.

 

To bad I go to the strip alone.... Ill see what I can do!