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Bead Blasting? Help!!

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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 10:14 AM
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Default Bead Blasting? Help!!

First things first... I am extremely embarrassed to post this but I need help... I bought this car with 69k on the clock and the previous owner did NOT love this car... I am trying my best to fix it... I know its nasty and you guys have cleaner cars than mine but I am trying to fix it...

I am currently doing a clutch swap and have the rear cradle and drivetrain sitting in the garage floor. I cannot bring myself to stick it back in the car as dirty as it is I am wondering if there is a faster way to go about cleaning everything other than a wire brush on a drill?? That would take countless hours... I can’t just drench it in degreaser and hit it with a pressure washer because of the seals and such... I would assume I will have the same issue having it blasted?? I thought I read somewhere to tape off sensitive parts with aluminum tape, just makes me uncomfortable... Advice from you guys?? Here is what I am working with



This plug was like this before removal.. anyone know what its for?? No wires were going to it

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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 10:31 AM
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The plug is for the CAGS shift solenoid.Keeps you from shifting to 2nd or 3rd at certain speeds Forces a shift from 1st to 4th supposedly for fuel economy.It it wasn't hooked up you can shift at any speed.
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 10:38 AM
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Just to clarify.. There are no wires going to the plug so obviously it doesnt work (can shift however I want right now).. I knew they sold an aftermarket item to delete that function but it appears someone just ripped the wires out of mine.. wont that cause a code or something?
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 10:53 AM
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The aftermarket eleminator plugs into the main harness.Most just ziptie it out of the way once it is installed.May want to look for the harness tied up somewhere under the car.
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 11:11 AM
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I just covered my ends of the axles and power washed it with some green soap we have at work. Got most of the crud off and it looked a 100% better. I imagine your gonna replace the axle seals while you got it out so you can spend more time on them when you have it on the bench.



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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 11:17 AM
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I was planning to replace the seals.. Dont want all this work to be in vain lol.. I think pressure washing may be my best bet at this point. I will just make sure I get it good and sealed before blasting it all.. No offense meant at all but I feel better seeing that someone else's C5 WAS as dirty as mine lol
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 01:29 PM
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Yea it was bad. But I drive that bi!!ch so its not a garage queen ya know. Still not as nice as I would like but I just want it back together and we are doing the work at my friends house and I'm sure he wants his garage back. You know what I thought about trying was some of that oven cleaner, spray on let it sit then power wash it off.
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 01:36 PM
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I will see what I can do with mine and post pics later..

Last edited by srooper1980; May 1, 2013 at 01:40 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 01:46 PM
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sucks for him.
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 03:02 PM
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Don't feel bad, there are PLENTY of dirty C5s out there... This is how mine looked the first time I was able to get it up in the air to take a look at it:




Cleaned it up with a brush, some super clean degreaser, and a hose:



Still don't know what caused that mess but it's been over a year without a recurrence.
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 03:37 PM
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I did the same cleaning.. Use a scraper to remove the big thick crud then them disolve with straight degreaser. Then wire brush the aluminum clean.

Use an aluminum conditioner to Condition the aluminum and then use an aluminum primer and them paint.

BC
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 09:45 PM
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i definitly would not use any kind of sand or beads to blast. if any of that were to get into the diff or trans you would be screwed. just thinking out loud wandering what soda blasting would do? i have never used it but i know that it is used for paint removal on body panels to minimize damage to the panel. would baking soda do damage if it were to get into the trans and diff????
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 10:36 PM
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The method that I recommended works well but it just takes a little longer and more work.

While you have the bank account open and the drive train out,, here is something for you to chew on.. It makes the rearend a little stronger and dependable.

- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html

- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966


I did this to mine when I did the clutch. Over all it was pretty easy and rewarding.

TEST THE LIMITED SLIP CLUTCHES:

Put the CV spindles back in the rear. Have someone HOLD one hub stationary. Attempt to rotate the oposite hub. If the limited slip clutches are good, it will be very difficult to rotate the free hub. A brand new clutch set breaks free at 90-100 ft/lbs.

A normaly worn set breakes free around 50-70 ft/lbs.. A bad set,,,, well you get the drift.


The clutch pack has a Belivlle washer in each clutch pack. They frequently break and cause the loss of limited slip action or degrade of the clutch action:





Bill
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 11:32 PM
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I used purple power and a strong blast from a water hose to clean up the crud in my engine bay and front cradle. I didnt even really need to use a brush all that much but when I did the transmission on my el camino it had been caked on there since 87 so It took a little more work and a lot of brush work but it came clean without much trouble.
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