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Today's question for my H/C swap is on timing chains. I read through several threads and found that my original choice of a Comp double roller may not be a great decision.
Some people have trouble with fitment and recommend a single roller, while others say they fit a double with no problems. I dont really want to play with moving the timing chain cover out and shaving the balancer and everything I have heard about! Especially not the ATI damper I got convinced to use for my setup on here a few months ago!!!
I heard that Cloyes's single roller hex-adjust chain may be a good one. Obviously it will fit well, and is a true roller rather than a stock style non-roller. But it wasnt even out according to the threads I was reading. I see it on Summit-racing now. Anyone have feedback?
Ive also heard of LS2 chains breaking on people who use them for high hp applications.
So what is the general consensus on timing chains for a cam car these days?
Also my car is a 99. Ive heard of differences in the block around the chain and something about having to drill for use of later style components such as the balancer and god knows what. Any insight on this mess is much appreciated.
I think it seems like a good choice. But one thing I know to look for is a torrington bearing rather than a normal thrust bearing. The Comp unit I was after was billit also and had a torrington bearing. This Cloyes one uses a standard thrust bearing...
Today's question for my H/C swap is on timing chains. I read through several threads and found that my original choice of a Comp double roller may not be a great decision.
Some people have trouble with fitment and recommend a single roller, while others say they fit a double with no problems. I dont really want to play with moving the timing chain cover out and shaving the balancer and everything I have heard about! Especially not the ATI damper I got convinced to use for my setup on here a few months ago!!!
I heard that Cloyes's single roller hex-adjust chain may be a good one. Obviously it will fit well, and is a true roller rather than a stock style non-roller. But it wasnt even out according to the threads I was reading. I see it on Summit-racing now. Anyone have feedback?
Ive also heard of LS2 chains breaking on people who use them for high hp applications.
So what is the general consensus on timing chains for a cam car these days?
Also my car is a 99. Ive heard of differences in the block around the chain and something about having to drill for use of later style components such as the balancer and god knows what. Any insight on this mess is much appreciated.
C5-R timing chain..Hands down the best Chain period.. End of story. These will NOT BREAK or stretch. Race proven... Unless you are putting down more than 1500 rwhp.. I have this chain on my bolt on C5Z... http://store.katechengines.com/c5-r-...chain-p30.aspx
Last edited by David426; Feb 11, 2013 at 01:24 AM.
I little more research has led me to find that the more expensive Cloyes billet single roller unit comes with the C5-R chain. This will be the best of both worlds with billet crank and cam sprockets and the tough C5-R chain . I think I've found my choice.
C5 R chain.....according to Katech....They have never had this chain fail after many years of campaigning a C5R at the American Lemans series.
Dont use LS2 chain (unless you have a specially made damper), from what I understand, it has too much slop and the damper from the LS2 does not bolt on the the LS6 (bolt centers do not line up.)
to save people like you/me exactly what we're doing now. there's no way any remotely educated individual hasnt had to ask these questions, and i'd wager a LOT just say "screw it, what should I buy?" and take their builder's advice at face value.
C5 R chain.....according to Katech....They have never had this chain fail after many years of campaigning a C5R at the American Lemans series.
Dont use LS2 chain (unless you have a specially made damper), from what I understand, it has too much slop and the damper from the LS2 does not bolt on the the LS6 (bolt centers do not line up.)
Never broke with a timing chain damper in place.
The Cloyes Hex-adjust comes with the Renold chain standard, which is the LS2 chain (or stock replacement). The original LS1 chain was a true roller chain. The C5R chain is the JWIS chain noting that there are several 3/8" chains available from JWIS. This is their top end chain that BMW uses in their M5 engine.
As for timing chain life, two of the most important things you can do is add the timing chain damper and make sure you have a good harmonic damper (ATI or stock are recommended by Kurt Urban to avoid timing chain issues). The LS2 damper can be used without drilling the block by using the TFS adapter. It attaches at the cam plate.
The Cloyes Hex-adjust comes with the Renold chain standard, which is the LS2 chain (or stock replacement). The original LS1 chain was a true roller chain.
but he did specify up top that the more expensive set includes the Katech c5r chain. I was going to get the Cloyes set til I realized they were just using a factory chain.
True roller is like a bike chain. The area that contacts the sproket is a roller on a shaft. Many stock chains are "link" type, the area that contacts the sproket slides on and off the teeth on the sproket and wear / get loose faster. See the example at the link below: The one on the right is the roller. Not an LS chain but you get the point
but he did specify up top that the more expensive set includes the Katech c5r chain. I was going to get the Cloyes set til I realized they were just using a factory chain.
What do you mean by "true roller" chain??
JWIS makes several chains of the correct pitch (3/8"). The one used for the C5R is called the G68V-2. Cloyes made three different variations of the Hex-adjust, one with the Renold chain (LS2), now with the JWIS chain and one with the IRL chain (no longer made and hard to find). SDPC bought up all the IRL chains from Cloyes a few years ago and LPE still had a few. In order of best to weakest, IRL is first, JWIS is second and the Renold would be third. With any of these chains I would run the timing chain damper.
JWIS makes several chains of the correct pitch (3/8"). The one used for the C5R is called the G68V-2. Cloyes made three different variations of the Hex-adjust, one with the Renold chain (LS2), now with the JWIS chain and one with the IRL chain (no longer made and hard to find). SDPC bought up all the IRL chains from Cloyes a few years ago and LPE still had a few. In order of best to weakest, IRL is first, JWIS is second and the Renold would be third. With any of these chains I would run the timing chain damper.
back when I installed mine, it had zero slack. Infact the fit was perfect. It's really helpful to when to dial in your cam.
As for timing chain life, two of the most important things you can do is add the timing chain damper and make sure you have a good harmonic damper (ATI or stock are recommended by Kurt Urban to avoid timing chain issues).
back when I installed mine, it had zero slack. Infact the fit was perfect. It's really helpful to when to dial in your cam.
dialing in the cam takes slack out of the chain?? thats the one part I really intended to phone a friend on with my build. Whats the difference in end result in dialing in the cam vs not?
This is great! Getting some good things to consider. Ill have to pick some brains on all this in the near future.
For now Im just trying to select the timing set I want. Im making a list and pricing it all out. I have a 99.. I was under the impression that these models came with a chain damper. Is that so? Its the plastic piece between the sprockets right?
I am thinking the Cloyes single roller hex adjust with the C5R chain is the best route to go. No modifications needed, and it should be a great piece.
My 99 FRC does not have a chain dampener. (plastic piece) nor are the hole there to bolt one in. The dampener has been discontinued, i think. I used a Rollmaster timing set from SCDP. It fit correctly, the Ls2 chain was at least as sloppy as the one I removed. Rollmaster timing sets are made in Australia(?) and are quality pieces. I'm fixing to do another cam swap and intend to use another Rollmaster timing set. I'm sold on them for what its worth.