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I pulled my diff and MN6 trans with the plate still on the car. There is a pic here somewhere from someone else who pulls transmissions without removing the plate.
Forgive me for my ignorance as I'm new to working on C5s but I don't think I have a tunnel plate? On the last oil change when I jacked the car in the air I could clearly see the entire TT. Is this possible? I bought the car from the original owner with 42,000 miles and you could tell it was perfectly maintainced and never modded.
If you can see the whole tube then it's not right and someone must have removed it. The plate should cover the center portion of the torque tube so you can only see the ends. So much for trusting in it being perfectly maintained.
Guess you'll have to pull the whole exhaust and put one on it.
What kind of service would have been performed where the TT was removed and why would it have been left off? Again, this was a one-owner low-mileage car with no mods?
Also, since I have to replace it now ... what would you recommend me replace it with?
If I needed a tunnel plate, I'd likely go for one of the aftermarket thicker, ceramic coated models - people say they help a bit with heat dispersion and add a bit more rigidity to the chassis.....if I already had a stock plate in there, I wouldn't bother changing it for that little benefit though.....
There's a few posts on this forum about how to add some insulation in the tunnel area while you're in there, helps keep heat out of the interior and console area.....
You can only guess. Almost any kind of major drive train work is possible. Not sure why they wouldn't put it back on though.
There are aftermarket ones available or search for a used C6 one because apparently they are a little heavier than the C5 ones.
You also have to find the bolts and washers. I have no idea of the exact size but they must be somewhere around a M4 or M5 and about 1" long for a stock plate.
There is a sticker on the torque tube that shows how low you can go. I believe it shows to not go any lower than the bottom of the diff even with the bottom of the center storage compartment but it's been a while now. You can go low enough to clear those bolts for sure without issue. I'm pretty sure you can let the torque tube down enough to touch the tunnel plate if you just leave the tunnel plate on. I've seen pics of others doing that.
DO NOT use an impact on the cradle bolts.
I wish I had read the whole thread....I used an impact on the cradle bolts and one broke free! I got the nut off, and luckily it's the front right one which I can get a wrench on, but is there way to get it back like it should be?
I wish I had read the whole thread....I used an impact on the cradle bolts and one broke free! I got the nut off, and luckily it's the front right one which I can get a wrench on, but is there way to get it back like it should be?
AL
Did you remove the diff on a lift or blocks/jacks Al and how difficult was the job?
I have it on jackstands. Going to buy a motorcycle lift today. It was hard to get the cradle to balance on my floor jack. I think patience is the key! It's probably going to end up taking me about 10 hours total, I'm slow.
I think I will remove the shocks from the cradle to go back togather. They wanted to hang up on everything. And all the wire and brake line clips are a pain!
Thanks Al. If all I have in it is 10 hours from removal to reassembly I'll be very happy. I'm not in a hurry and plan to do it over several weekends. The first close IHRA race isn't until mid-May so I'm fine. I bet it will be challenging balancing everything.
I wish I had read the whole thread....I used an impact on the cradle bolts and one broke free! I got the nut off, and luckily it's the front right one which I can get a wrench on, but is there way to get it back like it should be?
AL
The bolt has a tab on it with a hole which is rivited to a matching hole on the frame. Look at the front bolt under the master cylinder for referece. I can't see how you could fix it unless you cut a hole in the floor of the car.