converter change?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,047
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From: Longview Texas
converter change?
I'm going to begin work this weekend on changing converters. How high do I have to get the wheels off the ground? I like to build my own "ramps" using a 2" x 10" and lift the car up with the jack and then set it back down on them vs. driving up. I don't have a lift obviously so just curious how high I need to go. Also, can only the transmission come out or does the torque tube need removed too? I've changed converters on RWD V8 cars a million times when the transmission is bolted directly to the engine but this will be my first time on the C5. I've seen (very nice) posts on guys who have lifts in their garage and remove the torque tube, transmission and differential all at once but hope I don't have to go that far. Anyone with experience you're input would be greatly appreciated!
Scott
Scott
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Portland OR
I had my car 19" in the air measured at the frame rails. I removed the TT. I don't see why you couldn't do it and leave the TT in. But of course you need to have the assembly tilted down to do so. Make sure you don't tilt is so far the heads hit the firewall. And watch that ground on the back of the drivers side head.
also, remove the converter bolts before you do any of it. I can imagine that would be a royal pain with the whole thing supported with the jack.
Ron
also, remove the converter bolts before you do any of it. I can imagine that would be a royal pain with the whole thing supported with the jack.
Ron
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 43
From: Longview Texas
Thanks Ron. Is it possible to remove the torque tube (only lettting the engine down a little with another jack to prevent it from coming too far into the firewall) while leaving the transmission in? Or does it all come out at once? I really appreciate your help! I think I can do this as I have above average DIY mechanic skills and don't want to pay the shop what they are asking to change it.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,312
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From: Lake Havasu City AZ
Try this: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-part-2-a.html
No you don't have to remove the torque tube just make sure that when you lower it, you don't allow the engine to tilt back to far and the intake hits the fire wall.
Hope this helps..
Mike V
No you don't have to remove the torque tube just make sure that when you lower it, you don't allow the engine to tilt back to far and the intake hits the fire wall.
Hope this helps..
Mike V
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
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From: South Western Ontario
6-ton jack stands a few clicks from the bottom is more than enough room to pull the drivetrain parts.
You don't need to remove the torque tube. I wouldn't bother if you don't have plans to open it and check the couplers. Lower it down and support everything with a stand at the torque tube then unbolt the trans and diff and pull them off.
You don't need to remove the torque tube. I wouldn't bother if you don't have plans to open it and check the couplers. Lower it down and support everything with a stand at the torque tube then unbolt the trans and diff and pull them off.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 4
From: Tracy CA
Try this: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-part-2-a.html
No you don't have to remove the torque tube just make sure that when you lower it, you don't allow the engine to tilt back to far and the intake hits the fire wall.
Hope this helps..
Mike V
No you don't have to remove the torque tube just make sure that when you lower it, you don't allow the engine to tilt back to far and the intake hits the fire wall.
Hope this helps..
Mike V
That's how I broke my intake manifold pressure sensor.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 43
From: Longview Texas
So the best thing is to support the back of the engine with another jack not allowing it to drop any and then remove the torque tube and transmission? I don't want to remove the diffential to change the converter.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,439
Likes: 405
From: Portland OR
Hey Scott,
If you remove the TT, you have to support the engine with a large piece of wood and a jack.
I'm going to tell you though, since others have said you can leave the TT in, that's how I would do it. Getting at those bolts at the front bellhousing is a bitch. And you have the wiring harness to deal with as well.
Also, you can leave the diff on. The whole affair will be heavy, you will have to figure out where the balance point is. Shoot, maybe you can leave it all bolted to the cradle? I don't know. With the TT in, just put a jack under the tube somewhere near the back of it.
Once you get into it, I'm sure you will figure it out.
FWIW, I put the jack stands under the hockey jacking pucks. They conform nicely to the stands.
So let me tell you my mistake. I bought a 12mm TT because a buddy had one cheap. I put it in.....didn't take it apart first to check the couplers. Big mistake. So now, I can either pay a grand to have them replaced....or take it all back apart and do it myself.....and since a grand will buy me a fancier converter, I'll be back under the car in May or so turning wrenches.
Ron
If you remove the TT, you have to support the engine with a large piece of wood and a jack.
I'm going to tell you though, since others have said you can leave the TT in, that's how I would do it. Getting at those bolts at the front bellhousing is a bitch. And you have the wiring harness to deal with as well.
Also, you can leave the diff on. The whole affair will be heavy, you will have to figure out where the balance point is. Shoot, maybe you can leave it all bolted to the cradle? I don't know. With the TT in, just put a jack under the tube somewhere near the back of it.
Once you get into it, I'm sure you will figure it out.
FWIW, I put the jack stands under the hockey jacking pucks. They conform nicely to the stands.
So let me tell you my mistake. I bought a 12mm TT because a buddy had one cheap. I put it in.....didn't take it apart first to check the couplers. Big mistake. So now, I can either pay a grand to have them replaced....or take it all back apart and do it myself.....and since a grand will buy me a fancier converter, I'll be back under the car in May or so turning wrenches.
Ron
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AMP Racing
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,753
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From: Washington TWP NJ
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2017 C5 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12
Unfortunately, I've pulled the drive train out of C5s way too often.
Leave the tt attached. Support it as others have said so the intake doesn't hit the firewall.
Remove the three converter bolts before you try to separate the trans from the tt. There is a rubber insert in the access hole. Remove and the bolts are behind that. Replace with new. Their cheap and have thread lock already on them.
Take the cradle out separately. Unbolt top of shocks. Unbolt top of upper control arms. remove the emer brake bracket. Remove brake caliper and rotor. Pull firmly on the spindle and the axle will come out of the diff. Remove the 4 nuts the hold the cradle to the frame. These are one time use nuts. Replace with new.
Use a transmission jack to support and lower the diff/trans/converter all as one.
Have fun and get a buddy to help. It can be done solo, but its a pain.
Leave the tt attached. Support it as others have said so the intake doesn't hit the firewall.
Remove the three converter bolts before you try to separate the trans from the tt. There is a rubber insert in the access hole. Remove and the bolts are behind that. Replace with new. Their cheap and have thread lock already on them.
Take the cradle out separately. Unbolt top of shocks. Unbolt top of upper control arms. remove the emer brake bracket. Remove brake caliper and rotor. Pull firmly on the spindle and the axle will come out of the diff. Remove the 4 nuts the hold the cradle to the frame. These are one time use nuts. Replace with new.
Use a transmission jack to support and lower the diff/trans/converter all as one.
Have fun and get a buddy to help. It can be done solo, but its a pain.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 43
From: Longview Texas
Unfortunately, I've pulled the drive train out of C5s way too often.
Leave the tt attached. Support it as others have said so the intake doesn't hit the firewall.
Remove the three converter bolts before you try to separate the trans from the tt. There is a rubber insert in the access hole. Remove and the bolts are behind that. Replace with new. Their cheap and have thread lock already on them.
Take the cradle out separately. Unbolt top of shocks. Unbolt top of upper control arms. remove the emer brake bracket. Remove brake caliper and rotor. Pull firmly on the spindle and the axle will come out of the diff. Remove the 4 nuts the hold the cradle to the frame. These are one time use nuts. Replace with new.
Use a transmission jack to support and lower the diff/trans/converter all as one.
Have fun and get a buddy to help. It can be done solo, but its a pain.
Leave the tt attached. Support it as others have said so the intake doesn't hit the firewall.
Remove the three converter bolts before you try to separate the trans from the tt. There is a rubber insert in the access hole. Remove and the bolts are behind that. Replace with new. Their cheap and have thread lock already on them.
Take the cradle out separately. Unbolt top of shocks. Unbolt top of upper control arms. remove the emer brake bracket. Remove brake caliper and rotor. Pull firmly on the spindle and the axle will come out of the diff. Remove the 4 nuts the hold the cradle to the frame. These are one time use nuts. Replace with new.
Use a transmission jack to support and lower the diff/trans/converter all as one.
Have fun and get a buddy to help. It can be done solo, but its a pain.
I sincerely appreciate the help! This is saving me almost $1,000 in labor and most importantly I like to work on my own cars and learn things. I'm excited to feel this Yank SS4000!!!
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: South Western Ontario
There is a sticker on the torque tube that shows how low you can go. I believe it shows to not go any lower than the bottom of the diff even with the bottom of the center storage compartment but it's been a while now. You can go low enough to clear those bolts for sure without issue. I'm pretty sure you can let the torque tube down enough to touch the tunnel plate if you just leave the tunnel plate on. I've seen pics of others doing that.
DO NOT use an impact on the cradle bolts.
DO NOT use an impact on the cradle bolts.
AMP Racing
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,753
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From: Washington TWP NJ
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2017 C5 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12
The tunnel plate has to come off. You can't get the diff low enough to clear the trunk tub unless you take it off. Using a jack and block of wood or whatever, support the Trans and diff and remove the cradle. Once the cradle is out of the way, you can lower the trans/diff to remove it from the torque tube.
Last edited by C5 Pete; Feb 17, 2013 at 10:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 43
From: Longview Texas
The tunnel plate has to come off. You can't get the diff low enough to clear the trunk tub unless you take it off. Using a jack and block of wood or whatever, support the Trans and diff and remove the cradle. Once the cradle is out of the way, you can lower the trans/diff to remove it from the torque tube.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,439
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From: Portland OR
The bolts are captured and stay in the frame, Don't use an impact to remove them.
You have to unbolt the upper shock mount, upper control arms and remove the calipers. You will also need to unclip the brake hardlines from the cradle.
Put a second jack under the trans pan. With a nice block of wood. Unbolt the trans mount from the cradle. Lower the cradle and pull from under the car.
Then lower the jack under the trans. Put the jack you used for the cradle under the TT before unbolting the trans.
Here are a couple of photos with the trans supported minus the cradle:
And then the cradle back in.....I had all the suspension off for cleaning etc:
Don't forget the cooler lines, wiring to the shift lever switch and shift cable.
Hope this helps a little.
Ron
You have to unbolt the upper shock mount, upper control arms and remove the calipers. You will also need to unclip the brake hardlines from the cradle.
Put a second jack under the trans pan. With a nice block of wood. Unbolt the trans mount from the cradle. Lower the cradle and pull from under the car.
Then lower the jack under the trans. Put the jack you used for the cradle under the TT before unbolting the trans.
Here are a couple of photos with the trans supported minus the cradle:
And then the cradle back in.....I had all the suspension off for cleaning etc:
Don't forget the cooler lines, wiring to the shift lever switch and shift cable.
Hope this helps a little.
Ron
Last edited by RonSSNova; Feb 18, 2013 at 01:28 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 43
From: Longview Texas
Thanks Ron. The pictures make sense now. If you have the trans pan supported with the wood and jack like you do in the picture (which is how I saw it in my mind too) how would you position another jack under the cradle to let it down since the red jack is on the trans?
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,439
Likes: 405
From: Portland OR
Well in my case, the cradle was bare and very light, so I just lifted it up by hand. Same when I took it out because I had all the suspension apart.
You will need to have the jack under the pan swiveled out of the way of the jack under the cradle. You will figure it out.
I just made the trans support out of some 2x4 pieces. It helps because it clears that big bump in the pan.....
You will need to have the jack under the pan swiveled out of the way of the jack under the cradle. You will figure it out.
I just made the trans support out of some 2x4 pieces. It helps because it clears that big bump in the pan.....
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 43
From: Longview Texas
The plan this weekend is to get the car securely in the air and install the B&M transmission cooler. I'm a HS math teacher and we have spring break in two weeks so my hope is to tackle it then. I'm working with a guy in NC who has a Z06 3.42 diff for sale and hopefully we come to a deal. I think I might as well do that as well while it's apart to upgrade from my 3.15.
Race Director
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From: South Western Ontario