when driving my car just on the highway not beating on it i was going about 75 mph. When i got off the highway i was approaching a red light so i started to slow without breaking so i just put the car in neutral its a 6spd the engine suddenly shut off i still have all the break power but the motor died and its constantly done it i pulled the codes and this is what i got

the codes are:
TCS-C1255 H
58-SDM U1016 H
B0-RFA U1096H
B0-RFA U1064H
B0-RFA U1016H

i was told that it was the EBCM and that it needed to be swapped out.Ontop of that we started smelling almost a burning electrical smell and couldnt figure out where it was coming from. I went to a corvette shop and he gave me a EBCM directly out of another 99' but the model numbers are different this is the one thats in the car


ABS-5/TCS/MSVA/AH
DELPHI D
Model:09356971


the EBCM i was given is.

ABS-5-TCS/AH
Delphi Delco electronics systems
Model:09360921

will that ebcm i was given work in my car even though its a different model number. and if so could it possibly stop the engine shutoff when driving.

 

EBCM won't kill the engine, you have other issues.

 

I had changed the crank position sensor because I had that code an thinking that could be it I changed it an it still does the same thing.any suggestions or thoughts as to what could be doing that

 

Agree, but burning electrical smell will.

 

You changed the Crank Position Sensor...... That requires a CRANK RELEARN to be accomplished or it may not run correctly.

The EBTCM will NOT cause an engine STALL condition unless it locking up the rear wheels. (NOT LIKELY)

Engine stall is usually caused by:

Vacuum Leak
Dirty MAF/Throttle Body
Poor tune "Plugs and Wires"
Injesting unmetered air

CLEAR the DTCs and when the engine faulters again,, read the DTCS "BEFORE YOU TURN OFF THE IGNITION"

None of the DTCs that you have posted will cause engine stalling

DO you have any engine modifications?

Bill

Bill

 

Can you locate where the BBQ is? There is a known issue with the wires getting chaffed (and shorting to ground on har acceleration) at the rear of the cylinder head on the drivers side I believe causing issue.

Look at this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...e-misfire.html

 

IF you have an electrical issue causing a problem,, the DTCS will show it.

Use the DIC and read and post your DTCs:

READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.

 

Those are the only codes the car shows.It doesnt show any new codes but the engine still turns off only when going about 75mph going into neutral turns it off.Figured it was an electrical problem because of the smell of electrical burning ive cleaned the grounds but ive also read it could be the pcm?

 

LOL!! It could be the FUEL TANK also!! Dont read expensive parts into the problem until you have had a chance to rule out the NON expensive easy stuff first!


Clean the MAF and the Throttle body with MAF cleaner.

Look ALL the vacuum lines and the PCV hoses and fittings..

They are well known to CRACK and become deteoriated and cause a vacuum leaks and YES,,,,,,,,,,,, that will, / can cause a stalling issue.