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I've gone through 2 sears Craftsmen over the past 8 years with the black plastic lock ring for the torque settings. (The black rings crack)
I now have a Snap-On and it's a dream!
I have a 1/4" drive inch pound, 3/8 and 1/2 drive foot pound all from harbor freight. I think I got all 3 of them on sale with coupons for less than $35. My first HF 3/8" torque wrench lasted me 6 years so for $10-15 I have nothing to complain about.
I have used a craftsman click ratchet type for a long time with no problems.
I also bought the harbor freight ones 1/2, 3/8, and 1/4. I tried comparing the 1/2" to a couple of other torque wrenches and it was the same readings. Each of them were $9.99 with coupons. I actually bought 3 of the 1/2" so that I keep them in the cars for lug nuts.
If you want a real unpopular choice that is accurate and will last forever, try looking at a beam deflection type. This was my first torque wrench and it still works fine. I have had it and used it for over 40 years. Even if the pointer gets mangled, you can straighten it out so that it points to Zero again and it is good as new. The whole principle is a simple beam deflection and the steel in the beam is not going to change over time. The pointer has no stress on it so it simply measures the amount of deflection of the main beam. Another plus is that they are cheap. Most of the other types have some type of mechanism or electronics that can change over time.
I am going to use this for mainly removing and replacing three main items: the intake mainfold, the oil pan(maybe), and the plate on the bottom of the trasmission.
Is there a torque wrench size, i.e. inch pounds vs foot pounds, that can do all three of these jobs? Is it necessary to have seperate wrenches?
I am going to use this for mainly removing and replacing three main items: the intake mainfold, the oil pan(maybe), and the plate on the bottom of the trasmission.
Is there a torque wrench size, i.e. inch pounds vs foot pounds, that can do all three of these jobs? Is it necessary to have seperate wrenches?
Electronic can do inch-pounds and foot-pounds, but only to a certain extent.
I am going to use this for mainly removing and replacing three main items: the intake mainfold, the oil pan(maybe), and the plate on the bottom of the trasmission.
Is there a torque wrench size, i.e. inch pounds vs foot pounds, that can do all three of these jobs? Is it necessary to have seperate wrenches?
My advice is pick up AT LEAST a 1/4" in/lb and 3/8" ft/lb (those will get you by on 85% of the bolts on the car), you can't go wrong with craftsman or snap-on, but there is also nothing wrong with Harbor Freight for a fraction of the cost. Honestly, who cares what the "pros" use. Use what works.
You never want to read torque values at the MIN or MAX of your torque wrench reading range. If you have a 0-100 ft/lb wrench and need to read 10 ft/lbs,, it would be better/ more accurate to use an inch pound that would put the reading more mid range. I you need to measure 100 ft/lbs, get a 0-150 ft/lb wrench.
I admit ,, Ive cheated . I torqued my ARP Damper bolt to 240 ft/lbs using a 0-250 ft/lb wrench.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Mar 21, 2013 at 02:20 AM.
I have a 3/8" Snap-on 10-100lbs/in/nano/etc and the 1/2" Craftsman 10-200 from Sears. I use the Craftsman on things like head studs when you really need the leverage, but I've double checked the two against each other as a poor man's calibration, and they're the same from what I can tell.
Pro's are going to use snap-on, mac, or better. no "pro" would use a craftsman. but i guess it depends on your definition of pro.
You can get by with inexpensive ones, but what I do every spring is measure to torque value at 50lb. I have a 50lb weight with a 12" J-hook and several large washers to hold the weight. I have weighed it with several different scales and it has consistently read 50.5 lbs. I place the torque wrench in a vice in a horizontal position and attach the weight/J hook 12" from the center. Usually start with 55 lbs on the wrench setting and slowly move the handle until the wrench drops. My Craftsman is usually about 1 lb off and my cheapie HF is usually less than 1/2 lb off. Go figure.
You can get by with inexpensive ones, but what I do every spring is measure to torque value at 50lb. I have a 50lb weight with a 12" J-hook and several large washers to hold the weight. I have weighed it with several different scales and it has consistently read 50.5 lbs. I place the torque wrench in a vice in a horizontal position and attach the weight/J hook 12" from the center. Usually start with 55 lbs on the wrench setting and slowly move the handle until the wrench drops. My Craftsman is usually about 1 lb off and my cheapie HF is usually less than 1/2 lb off. Go figure.
waaaait a minute.. you have pics of that? that sounds like something i have to do
I've gone through 2 sears Craftsmen over the past 8 years with the black plastic lock ring for the torque settings. (The black rings crack)
I now have a Snap-On and it's a dream!
My current one has a crack in the lock ring, but not all the way through, and it works fine. The only time I would want a super high precision torque wrench is an in-lbs wrench. Anything that requires something like 50ft-lbs+ on a car can usually be off by a few pounds no problem.
Now if you are building a large scale precision CNC machine, you'd better get the best torque wrench you can find. Remember cars are meant to be worked on by any shade tree mechanic, and they are mass produced with innacurate machines or even by accurate machines but with super high feedrates to keep the cost of the car down. Pretty much everything in a car has a decent safety factor, and the assembly is very crude in comparison to pecision manufacturing equipment or other exotic applications that would require a real high quality torque wrench to assemble.
Ok did not know there was a harbor freight store. Googled it and found one here in Dallas. Thanks
Craftsman tools are decent but I want to spend more money on parts and less on tools right now. If I could by just one wrench and do all the jobs I would find a top quality. But since I have learned I will need a few different torque wrenches to do what I want, I just want a set of el cheapo's.
The first torque wrench I bought many years ago was a click type Proto. The first time I used it stripped the out the rocker rocker box bolts on my HD. Found out it was bad and the calibration was WAY OFF!!! It went straight to the garbage can, and now have several Snap On torqe wrenches. Very happy with them.