I'm thinking about shortening my stock shifter. I know there are a number of guys who have done this. I did a search and couldn't find the thread on how to do it. I remember seeing a step by step detail thread one time. Can anybody help? :confused:

 

I shortened my stock shifter and love it. Here is the short story.

1. Remove shifter from the car.
2. Using a Dremil cut the upper/outer section vertically and pry away from the rubber.
3. Using a tap and die set, run a die down over the inner shaft.
4. Cut the threaded section off of the upper /outer section and tap it with the same size thread. This threaded section is already hollow but you may have to drill it out for your tap.
5. Screw the two sections together and reinstall it in the car.

This method works well because you have no welds, you can cut the upper section to what ever length you like and your shift **** still fits.

Have fun,
Jeff

 

And, use RED (heat to unscrew) lock-tite on the two sections you screw together! :yesnod: All the best.


[Modified by Avanti, 12:17 PM 6/18/2002]

 

Jeff,
Thanks for the listing of steps. I too am planning on this, as I recently bought a stock shifter from a fellow member and it's on its way. Quick question for you and the other experts: instead of using some type of adhesive on the threads, would it be possible to drill a hole through the inner shaft and a slot on the outer shaft, then use a screw through the two? Or is that inner shaft some type of really stout material?

I am just wondering about the above to give some ability to make after the fact changes in height if desired?

Thanks for your thoughts! :cheers:

 

Lars -- here's some good photos that illustrate the steps set out above:
(1) http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=254845
(2) http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=249032

Chuckster, the creator of those posts, might also chime in here -- he's given a lot of thought to this mod and he is very helpful.


[Modified by SteveL2, 1:10 PM 6/18/2002]

 

Or you can go low tech like me. Get a hacksaw, and start sawing (seriously). I did this during my flameball install, and it worked fine. Took an inch off.

 

Steve,
I don't think the screw or pin is necessary. I didn't even use Locktite although it is a good idea. Mine has never come loose. :D

 

Thanks! Thats the thread I was looking for. :cheers:

 

I used a different approach to shorten the stock shifter. I only wanted to shorten it about 1 1/4"....similar to the height of the B&M. First I pryed off the original shaft...you don't need to cut it.....its glued to a bubber bushing. Then I measured the diameter of the turned down part of the shifter shaft. Mine was close to .392" after I turned it to clean up the surface.. Next, I bought a grade 8 bolt 9/16-18x6" and cut it to 4 3/4" in length. I drilled a hole about .002" smaller (25/64" drill) than the diameter of the shifter shaft. This will give an interference fit of .002". I put the shifter in my freezer for 30 minutes and heated the bolt with a torch for 2 minutes. With the cold shifter in a vice I tapped the heated bolt on with a mallet....once the assembly reaches room temperature, it's locked together permanently. This method doesn't require taps and dies to cut threads...it's just an interference fit. Silicone glue an O-ring on the shaft at the height you want your boot to sit. I also made a custom shiftplate and boot so I didn't need the O-ring. Here's the result.

:cheers:





[Modified by HIGHRPM, 4:06 PM 6/18/2002]

 

After using the shortened stock shifter for a week....I'm going back to the B&M Ripper...I like the shorter throws and more precise feel...the little additional effort to shift is worth the precise feel. Even the shortened stock unit has longer throws than the Ripper.....the effort is less but the travel distance is longer.....net effect is shifting time is about the same.

 

Before you scrap the whole idea...Try shortening it a lot more....
My throws are 3" from 1st to 2nd.. and VERY precise feeling..

 

I spent a lot of time goofing around with different ways of doing this.

The easiest is:
Take the shifter out of the car and buy a 9/16 bolt
Take it to a muffler shop or shop that does welding and has a metal saw.
You may also want to remove the rubber boot before the shaft is cut off, or atleast cover it.
Get them to cut the larger diameter black bit off the stock shifter.
Then get the shop to cut the bolt to your desired length and weld it onto the shifter.
It cost me 30 for welding and 3 for bolt.
Mine feels great and has not broken.

 

I tried the welded route twice, it will break and at the worst possible time. I recommend you always carry another shifter and tools if you go this route.

Jeff

 

I could not agree more... Welding requires outside work and Welds could crack.. The threaded route is the most solid and it's so easy ANYONE can do it..
I spent $25 on a 10mm tap and die from ACE Hardware... Now I own the the tools too. I just recently modified another forum members shifter.

 

Chuckster...my stock shifter has always had a problem going into reverse and the side to side play is a little too loose. I don't have any of this with the Ripper. I think my stock shifter doesn't quite reach far enough to engage the reverse fork smoothly....sometimes I have to push down hard on the top of the **** to get it into reverse....very irritating.. do you have these problems with your stock shifter?

 

Very solid on mine... However.. the one I did for the other Forum member had the same problem you did..
His would not go into reverse...

He is having his linkage adjusted and will report back....