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I don't know about these brands, but there are new ones pretty cheap at Amazon $48 shipped and another for $65 +$10 shipping. I just did a quick google search and came up with these.
I used one of the cheap ones on a rear '94 one and it held up for 15k or 20k and was still good when I sold the car. I used the cheap one after I used the local parts store one for triple the price and that only lasted about 10K.
Why,,,, YES you can.. Like i stated,, the WSS is a VERY SIMPLE sensor.
BC
I am changing the hub on my car tomorrow because when I pulled off that WSS cover, it was full of rust! Water obviously got in somehow and rotted everything. Bearing still solid .....not sure for how long as it's rusted to......but I needed the sensor to work so a new hub it is.
Thought I'd just mention this as I saw you saying how bullet-proof they are. It can happen.
There is a slight humming noise that I hear, and the car itself has 137000 on her. I was told that the hub assembly was probably the cause of the humming. I will try your test on her. One other question, is it practical to replace the sensor for the abs/traction control while the hubs are being replaced. The warning light comes on from time to time. I was told the sensor does not have to be replaced until the warning light stays on all the time, but if it is located anywhere near the hubs I might as well replace it now. Thanks
There is a slight humming noise that I hear, and the car itself has 137000 on her. I was told that the hub assembly was probably the cause of the humming. I will try your test on her. One other question, is it practical to replace the sensor for the abs/traction control while the hubs are being replaced. The warning light comes on from time to time. I was told the sensor does not have to be replaced until the warning light stays on all the time, but if it is located anywhere near the hubs I might as well replace it now. Thanks
If you're referring to the speed sensor, it's part of the hub/bearing assembly. And a new hub will have a new sensor regardless.
But you need to pull the codes and see if that is actually what's causing the idiot light to come on. As Bill mentioned, those Hall-effect sensors are incredibly robust, and it's very rare for them to fail. What is more likely is the harness wiring has become loose or corroded over the years.
I'm not getting any popping noise, but I am getting a low hum and slight vibration on the steering wheel. The car has 137000 miles on her. Do I need any special tools to do this myself? I am not very mechanically inclined, but an earlier post stated that if I can remove the tire, I can replace the hub. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
I'm not getting any popping noise, but I am getting a low hum and slight vibration on the steering wheel. The car has 137000 miles on her. Do I need any special tools to do this myself? I am not very mechanically inclined, but an earlier post stated that if I can remove the tire, I can replace the hub. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Define "special"
You'll probably need a breaker bar or an impact wrench. The bolts that mount the hub can be buggers. And to install you'll want a torque wrench.
It's an easy job, but obviously it's not something you want to f'k up. If you're unsure, then search around for a more honest shop.
Where are you? This forum has the nation pretty well canvassed, and I'm sure if you ask around someone can steer you to a good shop local to you.
The only special tools that you will need are some 3/8 drive socket TORX bits for the three bolts that secure the HUB to the steering spindle, a TORQUE Wrench and you will have to separate the upper A arm from the spindle.
I usually just flip the ball joint over and whack the ball joint stud it with a hammer.
I live in Wildood, NJ. Just outside of Cape May. If anyone knows of any shops that work on these cars, please contact me. Thanks again to all of you for your help. It is appreciated. And it is not the speed sensor warning light, it's the abs/traction control light that comes on from time to time.
The only special tools that you will need are some 3/8 drive socket TORX bits for the three bolts that secure the HUB to the steering spindle, a TORQUE Wrench and you will have to separate the upper A arm from the spindle.
I usually just flip the ball joint over and whack the ball joint stud it with a hammer.
BC
They used torx headed fasteners for those on C5s? WTF was that motivation for that one. I just swapped a front hub on my wife's GP a few months ago. ) Plain old hex heads... the only thing that made it difficult was trying to work around the CV joint. It would've been a 30 minute job on a RWD car.
I live in Wildood, NJ. Just outside of Cape May. If anyone knows of any shops that work on these cars, please contact me. Thanks again to all of you for your help. It is appreciated. And it is not the speed sensor warning light, it's the abs/traction control light that comes on from time to time.
Poke around the "Northeast" section of the forum for shop recommendations. Or just start a new thread right here in C5 tech or general. I'm sure someone will chime in.
On our C5, we are getting two traction control lights and the ABS light. The dealer said we had to replace the sensor which was integral to the hub and was going to charge $700+. Bill mentioned earlier in this thread that the sensor could be repaired. Is that possible? Where do you get replacement parts? If no parts available, then replace hub sounds like its required. I saw quotes above from Autozone for the bearing for about $150. Is this the full hub assembly or just the bearings. GMPartsNow and GMPartsDirect seem to have much more reasonable prices than the dealer just for the parts. Is there any forum out there or something that can show the steps required to replace the hub and the torque requirements? Thanks.
This job is a cakewalk especially on the front. I need to swap my front left side hub due to bearing failure (vibration that goes away on left curves). I was surprised that they didn't have the usual "corvette tax".
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