newb needs help
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: OKC for now OK
newb needs help
Ok, so I have been reading up on what the first few things I should do to my car to get more ponies. I have a few questions about them.
First, my car is an auto, so I am thinking stall converter, but I don't really know alot about them. If I understand them right, it basically makes it so you can launch at higher rpms, closer to peak power. Correct? If so what would be a good range to look for and how hard is the install on this.
Second, Gears? What should I go with and again is this something i can do myself. I am a mechanic on aircraft, so I think I can do most of this stuff, but want to make sure I wouldn't have to change the entire axel or something like that.
And Third, tune? I have never done a tune on a car, not even really sure what it does. can someone explain more about tuning it?
thanks for all the help...
Seth
First, my car is an auto, so I am thinking stall converter, but I don't really know alot about them. If I understand them right, it basically makes it so you can launch at higher rpms, closer to peak power. Correct? If so what would be a good range to look for and how hard is the install on this.
Second, Gears? What should I go with and again is this something i can do myself. I am a mechanic on aircraft, so I think I can do most of this stuff, but want to make sure I wouldn't have to change the entire axel or something like that.
And Third, tune? I have never done a tune on a car, not even really sure what it does. can someone explain more about tuning it?
thanks for all the help...
Seth
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,284
Likes: 235
From: Rockledge FL
Tuning adjusts a lot of parameters, tuning the engine adjusts the amount of air and fuel mixed in each cylinder as well as the timing of when the spark happens compared to the cylinder position. You can also tune for when your auto trans shifts, think of tuning like reprogramming your computer. You can look at your codes in the glove box and see what gears you have now. Being an auto your best bet is to find a diff out of a manual trans. Those will bolt right in and are 3.42 compared to the one out of the auto (i cant remember the exact number but it is different and doesnt allow for a good takeoff) To change the converter you have to take a lot out. The entire rear end exactly so if you are going to do gears and convertor, best bet is to do it all at once.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: OKC for now OK
Tuning adjusts a lot of parameters, tuning the engine adjusts the amount of air and fuel mixed in each cylinder as well as the timing of when the spark happens compared to the cylinder position. You can also tune for when your auto trans shifts, think of tuning like reprogramming your computer. You can look at your codes in the glove box and see what gears you have now. Being an auto your best bet is to find a diff out of a manual trans. Those will bolt right in and are 3.42 compared to the one out of the auto (i cant remember the exact number but it is different and doesnt allow for a good takeoff) To change the converter you have to take a lot out. The entire rear end exactly so if you are going to do gears and convertor, best bet is to do it all at once.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Well,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, You have a LOT to learn. After saying that, I strongly recommend that you look into purchasing a set of HELM factory service manuals for your car. Best place to get them is
www.gmpartshouse.com Its a Three volume set and it has ALL the info that you are going to need to do the work that you desire.
Tuning. You need EFI Live or HP Tuners to reflach the PCM with new calibrations for the engine & trans shift points and pressures.Most likely will need to have it professionally tuned as the learning curve is VERTICAL when tuning with professional soft/hardware. You can get by with a hand held tuning device but, it limited in stuff it can do.
Drive train mods: This is MUCH MUCH different than anything that you have ever worked on vehicle wise! Manuals and procedures are a MUST!! The torques required in the drive train alone will drive you crazy!
Torque converter. Call a vendor and figure out what you want out of your car and they will recommend a new stall for you. Same for differential gears.
Contact Rick @ RKT-56
RKT56
http://rkt56.com
Phone number: 301-257-0930
205 Bucheimer Road, #C
Frederick, MD 21701
He will give you truethful and factual info on the transmission and rearend mods and repairs! Unless you have all the Kent Moore differential gear alignment special tools and special shims,, you are NOT going to successfuly change your rearend gear ratio!
If you change the converter to a high stall, you will need a seperate trans cooler!
You should disassemble your torque tube and inspect and be ready to change the rubber couplers inside the torque tube.
Check out these differential and transmission post:
- C5 ragtopws6, T-56 Build (whats in my tranny?) : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/nort...-smoother.html
- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
-
- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966
- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html
-
DID YOU KNOW THIS:
READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.
Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.
Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........
Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.
Good luck!!!
Bill C
www.gmpartshouse.com Its a Three volume set and it has ALL the info that you are going to need to do the work that you desire.
Tuning. You need EFI Live or HP Tuners to reflach the PCM with new calibrations for the engine & trans shift points and pressures.Most likely will need to have it professionally tuned as the learning curve is VERTICAL when tuning with professional soft/hardware. You can get by with a hand held tuning device but, it limited in stuff it can do.
Drive train mods: This is MUCH MUCH different than anything that you have ever worked on vehicle wise! Manuals and procedures are a MUST!! The torques required in the drive train alone will drive you crazy!
Torque converter. Call a vendor and figure out what you want out of your car and they will recommend a new stall for you. Same for differential gears.
Contact Rick @ RKT-56
RKT56
http://rkt56.com
Phone number: 301-257-0930
205 Bucheimer Road, #C
Frederick, MD 21701
He will give you truethful and factual info on the transmission and rearend mods and repairs! Unless you have all the Kent Moore differential gear alignment special tools and special shims,, you are NOT going to successfuly change your rearend gear ratio!
If you change the converter to a high stall, you will need a seperate trans cooler!
You should disassemble your torque tube and inspect and be ready to change the rubber couplers inside the torque tube.
Check out these differential and transmission post:
- C5 ragtopws6, T-56 Build (whats in my tranny?) : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/nort...-smoother.html
- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
-
- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966
- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html
-
DID YOU KNOW THIS:
READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.
Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.
Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........
Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.
Good luck!!!
Bill C
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Mar 28, 2013 at 12:06 PM.
He couldn't pay for all of that info, and he got it for free on CF.
