Clutch still sticking after bleeding
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 32
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From: Charlotte North Carolina
Clutch still sticking after bleeding
Hey all.
I just recently installed long tubes on my 99 frc. Almost immediately after this my clutch started sticking to the floor. I did some research and decided it was time to bleed the clutch. I bled the clutch last night and the issue is still there. It almost seems worse. I'm thinking maybe the clutch line is getting too hot with the long tubes now? It's not touching the long tubes but it is pretty close to them. I also recently changed my power steering rack to fix a power steering leak but it looks like the power steering is leaking from the hp line or the pump. These repairs are starting to drive me crazy!
Any help on the clutch would be appreciated
Thanks
I just recently installed long tubes on my 99 frc. Almost immediately after this my clutch started sticking to the floor. I did some research and decided it was time to bleed the clutch. I bled the clutch last night and the issue is still there. It almost seems worse. I'm thinking maybe the clutch line is getting too hot with the long tubes now? It's not touching the long tubes but it is pretty close to them. I also recently changed my power steering rack to fix a power steering leak but it looks like the power steering is leaking from the hp line or the pump. These repairs are starting to drive me crazy!
Any help on the clutch would be appreciated
Thanks
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
On the PS hose hydraulic fitting end is a small O ring. Make sure that O ring is installed and NOT rolled or cut.
If it were me, I would change the Clutch Master cylinder and see if that resolves the issue. If it doesnt, you may be replacing the slave.
Changing the master cyl is the easiest and least expensive attempt to fix the issue..
Bill
If it were me, I would change the Clutch Master cylinder and see if that resolves the issue. If it doesnt, you may be replacing the slave.
Changing the master cyl is the easiest and least expensive attempt to fix the issue..
Bill
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 32
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From: Charlotte North Carolina
I just tried driving the car and the clutch loses pressure almost immediately. I can't even drive the car in the state it is in. I'm not losing fluid in the reservoir. In assuming this confirms that it is either the slave or master cylinder.
I guess it's time to buy the master to start.
I guess it's time to buy the master to start.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Well,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, If you bled the clutch properly and your are POSITIVE that there is NO air in the system,, YES!
The RACK Hyd Fittings have the small O rings on each hydraulic line nipple.
The RACK Hyd Fittings have the small O rings on each hydraulic line nipple.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 32
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From: Charlotte North Carolina
I followed the instructions from that 97vet website. Only thing different was a few times the pedal man took his foot of of the clutch pedal when I had the screw open because I was having a hard time with the wrench slipping off of the nut. The pedal Did stay down when he took his foot off of it. And this happened after the first few bleed cycles. The last 6 or 7 cycles were normal per the instructions.
This is frustrating because I was planning on going to test n tune at zmax tomorrow.
This is frustrating because I was planning on going to test n tune at zmax tomorrow.
Last edited by Cigarvette; Mar 29, 2013 at 07:39 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 32
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From: Charlotte North Carolina
Is there a way to tell if its the slave or the master?
If I pump it at the top of the pedal a few times and then press it in it will work long enough for me to get it into gear. But then I can get it out of gear unless I turn the car off and repeat that procedure.
If I pump it at the top of the pedal a few times and then press it in it will work long enough for me to get it into gear. But then I can get it out of gear unless I turn the car off and repeat that procedure.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
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Slaves leak but when they do they usually still work. I drove with a leaking slave for a whole winter.
Since you are bleeding it you must be under there. Pull off the inspection plate and check for wetness.
The symptoms you describe are more like a bad master cylinder. (Hope and pray)
MCs are cheap and easy to replace so give it a shot. Be sure to bench bleed before mounting in the car or you'll be there all day.
Since you are bleeding it you must be under there. Pull off the inspection plate and check for wetness.
The symptoms you describe are more like a bad master cylinder. (Hope and pray)
MCs are cheap and easy to replace so give it a shot. Be sure to bench bleed before mounting in the car or you'll be there all day.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 32
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From: Charlotte North Carolina
I bought a new master cylinder but it didn't come with the section of braded clutch line. I will try to swap them out this weekend and see how it goes. I have read that some guys just install and tap on the cylinder to get rid of air bubbles. Is this an option. Or is bench bleeding a must ?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 32
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From: Charlotte North Carolina
I swapped the master cylinder out yesterday and she is fixed! I did not bench bleed and I removed the line at the master and just swapped them out. I'm very glad it wasn't the slave. Only thing that gave me trouble was the new master cylinder did not have a new o-ring in it and I was trying to install the line without an o-ring. Just remember to check for that if someone is reading this before they swap their master out.
Thanks!
Luke
Thanks!
Luke