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Uneven ride height

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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 10:48 PM
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Default Uneven ride height

My car is a 2000 coupe with the Z51 suspension. The ride height has always been off, with the old suspension (stock 100k mile Z51) I had to have the front spring completely adjusted up (higher) on the drivers side and completely adjusted down (lower) on the passenger side. This was with the WCC bolts as well, so this was at around 4".

Thinking it was a worn spring, I did a full suspension swap. I put new Bilstein Sport shocks, new C6Z51 sway bars with metal endlinks and Pfadt poly bushings, and low mileage 2002 Z06 springs. I also changed the bolts to the Hardbar USA bolts.

I just spent a good couple of hours trying to get the ride height leveled out. It isn't nearly as drastic, but with the passenger side bottomed out, I'm at 5.5". I have probably 2-3 full turns from the bottom on the drivers side and I'm at 5". What other suspension component could be causing this inconsistency? Could it be incorrectly installed? I followed the LS1Tech guide to the T, and installed the springs with the part number facing down and on the passenger side.
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 10:56 PM
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I have a few questions:

What are your measuring points?

Is the floor you are working on level?

How much fuel is in the car?

Is your sway bar connected?
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by printmanjackson
I have a few questions:

What are your measuring points?

Is the floor you are working on level?

How much fuel is in the car?

Is your sway bar connected?


I'm measuring from the front jack point (just before the opening).

The floor is a concrete garage slab. I actually verified its an accurate measurement by measuring the ride height before the mods on an alignment rack.

There's about 1/2 to 3/4 in the car.

Both sway bars are connected.

I also drove around the block a couple times to settle the suspension, so I think it should be settled and accurate measurements.
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 11:23 PM
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I would first take off one sway bar end link off the front and the back to make sure they are not affecting anything.
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 11:32 PM
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also remember the four corners work like the legs of a table.

RF and LR work together and LF and RR work together
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 01:12 AM
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I adjust corner weights, alignment and ride height with 180 lbs in the drivers seat.
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 07:52 AM
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Good suggestions. I haven't adjusted the rear yet and unless I got extremely lucky, it should be off by a good bit. I'll hopefully give that a try tonight.
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 09:39 AM
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it should be level side to side with about a 1/4" rake from front to rear
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 09:34 AM
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I replaced my springs and shocks like you and had a similar problem. I tried measuring on my garage floor using a laser and even with this I could not get it level. I finally found a shop that would let me use their alignment bed to do the adjustments. I checked their alignment bed for level before I adjusted. It is an iterative process because when you change the front it effects the back. Note that there is a maximum difference between the rear adjusters. I think that it is 3 threads.
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Renxwar
Good suggestions. I haven't adjusted the rear yet and unless I got extremely lucky, it should be off by a good bit. I'll hopefully give that a try tonight.
I'm not sure what you mean.

All 4 corners are working with and against each other. You have to bring them all up slowly together a little at a time.
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Rookieracer
I'm not sure what you mean.

All 4 corners are working with and against each other. You have to bring them all up slowly together a little at a time.
When installing the new springs, I knew I wanted to adjust the ride height so I just cranked the bolts down without any type of adjustment. I began adjusting the front, thinking I could get the front to the level I wanted then just add 1/4" to the rear. It sounds like the backs affect the fronts more than I was expecting.
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 10:47 AM
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As was said before, disconnect the sway bars, they will add spring rate to different corners as you are adjusting up and down. Connect them after your ride height is complete.

Lower the car down at least an inch under where you want your final height to be, then start bringing each corner up 1/8 at a time. Make an adjustment, then measure the other 3 corners.

It's much easier if the car is on wheel scales because you can observe how much weight of the car is being supported by each corner.

As Printman said, the diagonal corners work with each other. You could theoretically have all the weight sitting on only two of the diagonal corners. Visualize a table with two of the diagonal legs a little short. So be aware of what the resistance feels like on the adjuster in each corner.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 10:50 AM
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Sorry for not updating sooner. I spent the weekend doing some adjustments. I disconnected the front and rear sway bars and lowered everything down. I kept a list of all my adjustments and ultimately got it up to:

FL: 5 1/8" FR: 5"
RL: 5 3/8" RR: 5 3/8"

This was after around 10-15 adjustments, so I ended up almost emptying the tank. I filled it up and I'm going to get the car aligned. The minor adjustments to get the height perfect shouldn't affect the alignment and I'll be alot less nervous.

I was still having an odd issue of the drivers side being lower, although not nearly as bad as the previous spring setup. I ended up needing to do around 3.5 turns on the front left to get it even with the bottomed out front right. I suppose as long as the height is level, it shouldn't matter.. it just seems odd to me.
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