Getting brake calipers off...?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,279
Likes: 18
From: Oklahoma
Getting brake calipers off...?
I went down this same road the first time I went to change my front brake pads on my 1997 Cobra. The mounting bolts were so tight it took forever to bust them free. Well I had the same issue today and gave up after giving it everything I had on the passenger side. I'm not a small guy at 195lbs and I lift weights twice a week. I can bench 260lbs so surely I should be able to break these stupid mounting bolts free! I flushed/bled the entire system and introduced Motul RBF600 fluid and installed Speigler braided front brake lines. I had planned to put on new Hawk pads but to no avail, I gave up. Any suggestions? I guess I may have to take it to a shop and have them install the pads. I have changed pads so many times I can do it in my sleep but these suckers wouldn't budge! 
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 4,549
Likes: 30
From: Shenandoah Valley Virginia
Take a step back and breathe --- 
It is very easy to remove the calipers. There are two smaller bolts ( 15mm I think) that attach the caliper to the sliders in the caliper bracket. Look for the 2 bolts next to the black rubber bellows, those are the ones to remove. They will be tight since the factory used loktight on them. Standard box wrench should be all you need. You DO NOT need to remove the caliper bracket to change pads. Be sure to lube sliders while you have it apart.
Removing the caliper bracket to install rotors is another story all together. Those bolts mounting the bracket to the spindle are loktighted and installed using a VERY high torque rating. You will need a 24" breaker bar and a 3 ft long pipe to slide over the bar for extra leverage.
It is very easy to remove the calipers. There are two smaller bolts ( 15mm I think) that attach the caliper to the sliders in the caliper bracket. Look for the 2 bolts next to the black rubber bellows, those are the ones to remove. They will be tight since the factory used loktight on them. Standard box wrench should be all you need. You DO NOT need to remove the caliper bracket to change pads. Be sure to lube sliders while you have it apart.
Removing the caliper bracket to install rotors is another story all together. Those bolts mounting the bracket to the spindle are loktighted and installed using a VERY high torque rating. You will need a 24" breaker bar and a 3 ft long pipe to slide over the bar for extra leverage.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,279
Likes: 18
From: Oklahoma
Take a step back and breathe ---
It is very easy to remove the calipers. There are two smaller bolts ( 15mm I think) that attach the caliper to the sliders in the caliper bracket. Look for the 2 bolts next to the black rubber bellows, those are the ones to remove. They will be tight since the factory used loktight on them. Standard box wrench should be all you need. You DO NOT need to remove the caliper bracket to change pads. Be sure to lube sliders while you have it apart.
Removing the caliper bracket to install rotors is another story all together. Those bolts mounting the bracket to the spindle are loktighted and installed using a VERY high torque rating. You will need a 24" breaker bar and a 3 ft long pipe to slide over the bar for extra leverage.
It is very easy to remove the calipers. There are two smaller bolts ( 15mm I think) that attach the caliper to the sliders in the caliper bracket. Look for the 2 bolts next to the black rubber bellows, those are the ones to remove. They will be tight since the factory used loktight on them. Standard box wrench should be all you need. You DO NOT need to remove the caliper bracket to change pads. Be sure to lube sliders while you have it apart.
Removing the caliper bracket to install rotors is another story all together. Those bolts mounting the bracket to the spindle are loktighted and installed using a VERY high torque rating. You will need a 24" breaker bar and a 3 ft long pipe to slide over the bar for extra leverage.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Use a propane torch and heat the head of the bolt to about 200-250 degrees. It will break loose a lot easier. The heat will soften the locktite.
Yes you will need the breaker bar.
Just a dumb thought. Are you turning it the correct direction??
Yes you will need the breaker bar.
Just a dumb thought. Are you turning it the correct direction??
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Cruising
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
the correct torque spec is 125 ft/lb, i am feel your pain I just removed mine for doing the C5 front calipers in the rear mod, and i used Bills method with a 2 ft breaker bar, had them off in no time.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,279
Likes: 18
From: Oklahoma
My father in law also suggested this and has one he will loan me.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 227
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
If your not on a lift and don't have the room for a breaker bar, remove the 18mm nut that holds the tie rod to the spindle and turn the spindle to access the 21mm bracket bolts.
Done.
Or buy the 1/2" drive Ingersoll Rand 18volt gun
Done.
Or buy the 1/2" drive Ingersoll Rand 18volt gun